View Full Version : RSS Feed: The Electric S2000 Project
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 02:56 PM
As some of you may have already noticed, I have set up the forums to allow us to connect to RSS feeds on topics of interest.
This one is very interesting...so here it is for those that are too lazy to shop elsewhere for their RSS stuff. :p
Sorry about the first run of posts showing up in reverse order, that's just how it happens automatically.
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I was going to post all of the battery rack and battery installation in one post but there is a lot involved and it's taking longer than I thought so figured I'd break it up some.<br /><br />After reading through the Thundersky documentation I found on their website it said if you want to remove a cell from a group to discharge all the cells of the group first. Turns out these cells will expand and become ruined if they are used. It was hard to read the directly translated documents but it also sounded like you were fine if you recompressed the cells before use.<br /><br />SinceI knew I needed groups of cells other than the five they came in I didn't hookup and start charging the cells immediately as I've noticed others doing because I didn't have a good way to discharge them again in a timely fashion.<br /><br />I built a quick and simple cell compressor more for storing the od cells while I was waiting to build a new group. So for example I needed a group of seven which left three cells sitting around. I didn't know exactly how many cells I would need in each group and designed as I went (I'm bad at planning really far ahead).<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkzAE32pI/AAAAAAAAAjc/ANEC8C1qxqY/s1600-h/IMG_1531.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680995283622546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkzAE32pI/AAAAAAAAAjc/ANEC8C1qxqY/s400/IMG_1531.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a new group of the seven cells. I got some huge zip ties and a tool to tension them. I noticed this actually is providing better tension than the stock setup. The stock setup is loose enough that the cells can still shift a little which allows them to get out of alignment. This method keeps the cells very snug. Below is also the first base frame for the group.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbpt-ndI/AAAAAAAAAjM/dwakIILHCbY/s1600-h/IMG_1532.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680594145025490" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbpt-ndI/AAAAAAAAAjM/dwakIILHCbY/s400/IMG_1532.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div>Another shot of the frame as I progressed. The batteries will sit on top of the motor mount and be allowed to move slightly with it.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbSEdAwI/AAAAAAAAAjE/-1Os2P-qN-8/s1600-h/IMG_1533.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680587796841218" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbSEdAwI/AAAAAAAAAjE/-1Os2P-qN-8/s400/IMG_1533.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div> </div><div>The rack placed on top of the motor mount frame.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkt6oHCjI/AAAAAAAAAjU/N43XUOxwhf0/s1600-h/IMG_1534.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680907921459762" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkt6oHCjI/AAAAAAAAAjU/N43XUOxwhf0/s400/IMG_1534.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a near completed battery rack holding three groups of seven cells above the motor. All three racks, especially the center are angled forward to account for the slope of the hood. There are very tight clearances all around between the sides and hood.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbXPyXgI/AAAAAAAAAi0/heIn5vS1s-8/s1600-h/IMG_1535.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680589186555394" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbXPyXgI/AAAAAAAAAi0/heIn5vS1s-8/s400/IMG_1535.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Just another shot from the front.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbL92Z9I/AAAAAAAAAis/ST8eCjbdNhw/s1600-h/IMG_1536.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680586158532562" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbL92Z9I/AAAAAAAAAis/ST8eCjbdNhw/s400/IMG_1536.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div>Here is the rack all painted. You'll notice I added some feet on the sides near the back. These, including the length of the rubber feet rivoted on, are 1/4" inches longer than the rest of the feet. This allows for all this weight to be evenly displaced downward on the engine mounts instead of only towards the center.</div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj8EWvK8I/AAAAAAAAAic/LxaS-kh3RFQ/s1600-h/IMG_1551.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680051539487682" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj8EWvK8I/AAAAAAAAAic/LxaS-kh3RFQ/s400/IMG_1551.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div> </div><div>I can't remember the names of these things but they are basically a really long nut. They may be called couplers which is what they do. They are used throughout the racks with the threaded shafts to provide adjustable points for securing the cells as you'll see later.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkL7HcIiI/AAAAAAAAAik/Vw3a6ZcV1pA/s1600-h/IMG_1552.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680323937313314" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkL7HcIiI/AAAAAAAAAik/Vw3a6ZcV1pA/s400/IMG_1552.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the rack bolted in place on the motor mount frame. Again notice those feet I mentioned earlier on the outsides of the motor mounts applying most of the weight to the outside and avoiding sag and strain.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj792D1qI/AAAAAAAAAiM/w90hIyabaKA/s1600-h/IMG_1553.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680049791817378" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj792D1qI/AAAAAAAAAiM/w90hIyabaKA/s400/IMG_1553.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here are the 21 cells in place for a test fit. All looks good.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7i4fpsI/AAAAAAAAAiE/04fNo_pjgfQ/s1600-h/IMG_1561.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680042554271426" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7i4fpsI/AAAAAAAAAiE/04fNo_pjgfQ/s400/IMG_1561.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>A final shot with the support bars securing the cells.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE3OEmPI/AAAAAAAAAhk/NyEgi2ppw9U/s1600-h/IMG_1565.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676904097421554" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE3OEmPI/AAAAAAAAAhk/NyEgi2ppw9U/s400/IMG_1565.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Now there is some room up front where the radiator use to be. Technically this isn't the best place for batteries. In case of an accident they are not as well protected and can be ruined during a front in collision. Of course so can the batteries over the motor if the crash is bad enough. Either way I don't have the room to pick and choose the locations so they are going in here.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7rDJhDI/AAAAAAAAAh8/DxfVoGktPgY/s1600-h/IMG_1562.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680044746441778" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7rDJhDI/AAAAAAAAAh8/DxfVoGktPgY/s400/IMG_1562.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />After doing some measuring I determined I can squeeze nine cells in here. I changed my mind a couple times but then finally decided on the best way to secure the frame as well see in a second.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhFMbln4I/AAAAAAAAAh0/N0Lsqz702Qw/s1600-h/IMG_1563.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676909791256450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhFMbln4I/AAAAAAAAAh0/N0Lsqz702Qw/s400/IMG_1563.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />This rack needed to built in two pieces and bolted together to allow it to fit into the confined space and get to the mounted points.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE4STZiI/AAAAAAAAAhs/W_fRMqtiRLQ/s1600-h/IMG_1564.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676904383604258" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE4STZiI/AAAAAAAAAhs/W_fRMqtiRLQ/s400/IMG_1564.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>Here is the front cross member which convienently had two bolt holes where the original engine stop was. This was the rubber bumper used to stop the engine from dropping too far down when you discount the tranny. I'll be using it as one of the main mounting points.</div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEiheKqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/IOk4HUZT804/s1600-h/IMG_1566.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676898541644450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEiheKqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/IOk4HUZT804/s400/IMG_1566.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Here is a shot of the frame in place. I had to also drill holes in the side frame (unfortunately no other available holes).</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEh05bJI/AAAAAAAAAhU/aKvZhv021ho/s1600-h/IMG_1567.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676898354687122" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEh05bJI/AAAAAAAAAhU/aKvZhv021ho/s400/IMG_1567.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Here are those side holes that were drilled. You can see these beems with the front bumper removed.</div><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgNDpgBbI/AAAAAAAAAgk/mySi1rFDffk/s1600-h/IMG_1568.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675945361016242" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgNDpgBbI/AAAAAAAAAgk/mySi1rFDffk/s400/IMG_1568.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />The finished assembly.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM8AIMaI/AAAAAAAAAgc/JZv9rZHo8U4/s1600-h/IMG_1569.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675943308439970" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM8AIMaI/AAAAAAAAAgc/JZv9rZHo8U4/s400/IMG_1569.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />I installed the finished assembly. Things were so tight I couldn't help but scrapping a little of the paint. I hate that!</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM57cyuI/AAAAAAAAAgU/I3pk9NlQzKg/s1600-h/IMG_1570.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942751947490" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM57cyuI/AAAAAAAAAgU/I3pk9NlQzKg/s400/IMG_1570.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I wanted to add this picture since I forgot to mention it earlier. The white plastic sheet seen here was also used on the first three groups of cells to protect from anything that may come up from the road. The plastic is what is called wonder wall. It was thin, very hard and yet could bend without breaking. It was very lightweight and cheap so seemed worth trying out. When I get things rolling I plan to come back and build a lightweight shell around the batteries with this material. We'll see how that works out later.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM5AxqlI/AAAAAAAAAgM/iaxPFsOQlek/s1600-h/IMG_1571.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942505851474" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM5AxqlI/AAAAAAAAAgM/iaxPFsOQlek/s400/IMG_1571.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />One final shot with the 30 cells in the front of the car. This leaves another 15 to fit into the trunk.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM6RuHrI/AAAAAAAAAgE/tTSWZEIDGu8/s1600-h/IMG_1572.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942845357746" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM6RuHrI/AAAAAAAAAgE/tTSWZEIDGu8/s400/IMG_1572.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/01/front-battery-racks.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
While I was waiting for my batteries I also finished up the first computer revision. I plan on making a more advanced version but figured I'd do a basic setup which will give just what I need to get things rolling and then later, with the car mobile, I can test and prototype to see exactly what I want.<br /><br />I figured the basics I needed were to monitor the RPM signal from the motor and relay this to the tach gauge and EPS system. I also wanted to make sure I could watch the temperature of the motor and controller. I can also added an output port so I could optionally install a small LCD screen to show this information although I haven't used it yet (just using a connected laptop currently). This version uses a BASIC Stamp microprocessor. I'm using an ADC0831 to convert the signals from the LM34 temperature sensors to a digital output. This sensors will output 10 millivolt per 1 degree F. The only other IC on the board is a 5v voltage regulator.<br /><br />Below is a picture of the basic circuit board after it was etched. I've done chemical etching myself but for something critical like this I wanted it done professionally. I used <a href="http://www.expresspcb.com/">ExpressPCB</a> for the job. They offer free software to download which is very easy to use. It's not very advanced compared to other PCB software but will do basic jobs like this. After you design your board you can click an option to compute the cost of the board. There are a few options. You can get everything from prototyping to full production work. Below is the prototyping board. I think it cost $50 or so and you get three boards in case you mess up something while soldering. The prototyping version requires the exact board size shown below. I think it was 2.5" x 3.2" or close to that. It goes up in price considerably for full silkscreening and solder masks for surface mounting. After I placed the order, completely through the software, I received the boards in the mail within 3 days.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_8tIzbI/AAAAAAAAAbI/r5aFx9wSXPA/s1600-h/IMG_1402_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228149020872114" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_8tIzbI/AAAAAAAAAbI/r5aFx9wSXPA/s400/IMG_1402_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I guess I didn't need the flash here. This is just a loose fitting of the components. Yep it all fits.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_u54-bI/AAAAAAAAAbA/AfLlS6rKgN0/s1600-h/IMG_1403_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228145316264370" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_u54-bI/AAAAAAAAAbA/AfLlS6rKgN0/s400/IMG_1403_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the board with all the components and IC sockets soldered in.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm39jy-PI/AAAAAAAAAa4/lP4K65_rph0/s1600-h/IMG_1439_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228011811174642" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm39jy-PI/AAAAAAAAAa4/lP4K65_rph0/s400/IMG_1439_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Added the BASIC stamp chip and ADC IC.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm3sMn-DI/AAAAAAAAAaw/pQ9u_uXnoVI/s1600-h/IMG_1440_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228007150581810" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm3sMn-DI/AAAAAAAAAaw/pQ9u_uXnoVI/s400/IMG_1440_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a project box I picked up at radio shack. Turns out it's just a little too deep to fit where my original ECM was and I need to replace it later. For now the access panel is still off and I'm going to live with that way under the car is rolling and I have time to go back and clean things up.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm29WIzNI/AAAAAAAAAag/sundfLrKp0c/s1600-h/IMG_1442_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285227994574015698" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm29WIzNI/AAAAAAAAAag/sundfLrKp0c/s400/IMG_1442_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the finished box. You can see the serial port I added so I can update the software and tweak anything later. There is an external LED to show power and an external fuse for protection.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm2dEVUkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/FEM0zw45TuY/s1600-h/IMG_1443_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285227985909404226" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm2dEVUkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/FEM0zw45TuY/s400/IMG_1443_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The computer is in the car and working as expected. That's it for the computer until revision 2.
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2008/12/computer-revision-1.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I've heard about a movie called, "Who killed the electric car?", but never watched it till recently. This is extremely eye opening. I had no idea we could have had MANY EV vehicles on the street already. I just figured there were always good technological reasons for the cars never making full production runs. This movie really gets into the details of how auto makers, oil companies and I'm sure some money under the table with political figures have been working towards killing the electric car. You'll be amazed at what GM has done!<br /><br />It can be found <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FDmmJm9vSA">here</a> on YouTube. It's broken up into ten parts so make sure to watch them in the correct order it could be rather confusing. You can also purchase this video off the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Internet</span>.<br /><br />Watch it, you'll be amazed.
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/01/who-killed-electric-car.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After a very long wait (6-7 weeks) the order of lithium batteries, charger and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">BMS</span> have finally arrived! I actually ended up picking up the shipment from the freight distribution point closest to me instead of waiting another couple days to schedule the delivery with them.<br /><br />As I've mentioned before I ordered everything through Elite Power Solutions. You really don't know what to expect when dealing with people online and especially for this kind of money but everything went smoothly and they are legit.<br /><br />Below is a picture of the crated delivery. Five boxes total. Three boxes contain 15 cells each, one for the charger and another for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">BMS</span> system.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31JqR66I/AAAAAAAAAdE/jI0hr3qCJ2w/s1600-h/IMG_1512_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072423402892194" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31JqR66I/AAAAAAAAAdE/jI0hr3qCJ2w/s400/IMG_1512_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here you can the first box opened. I didn't know what I was going to get really other than lithium cells. They came <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">pre</span>-bound with nice aluminum end plates and handles to carry them. It's very important these cells stay bound while there is any charge on them. So for example if you need to exchange a single cell for some reason the entire block that is bound together must be drained completely first. I didn't know this until reading the <a href="http://www.thunder-sky.com/pdf/2007030222.pdf">instruction manual</a>. I didn't get this with the order but found the info on the Thunder-Sky website.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31OWfyVI/AAAAAAAAAdM/mVwEgy4baec/s1600-h/IMG_1513_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072424662092114" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31OWfyVI/AAAAAAAAAdM/mVwEgy4baec/s400/IMG_1513_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is just a picture of everything received in the order. You can see charger isn't small.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31ZCps4I/AAAAAAAAAdU/m7lYED8gIwM/s1600-h/IMG_1514_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072427531645826" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31ZCps4I/AAAAAAAAAdU/m7lYED8gIwM/s400/IMG_1514_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I measured and added the post dimensions for these cells. Again these are the 160Ah cells so I doubt they are the same for other cell sizes but I'm not sure. This info will be helpful if you are making a per cell battery balancing system. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">BMS</span> only monitors the and reports information about the cells. The only active <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">BMS</span> piece to it is shutting down the charger when the highest cell reaches a set voltage. I will be charging to 3.8v max. This means the cells can become out of balance which will reduce the overall power you can get from the pack safely.<br /><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZUUH62I/AAAAAAAAAc0/eeCHkOXte6U/s1600-h/IMG_1521_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071945226414946" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZUUH62I/AAAAAAAAAc0/eeCHkOXte6U/s400/IMG_1521_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the best shot I could get showing a side and front angle of the aluminum end caps that came with the cells. You may need to, as I do, use longer or shorter groups of cells than five. I need to find some similar straps that are longer but will reuse the end caps.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZCaenUI/AAAAAAAAAcs/4-ONVSEnNuI/s1600-h/IMG_1519_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071940421229890" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZCaenUI/AAAAAAAAAcs/4-ONVSEnNuI/s400/IMG_1519_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a box of all the connector bars, bolts and locking washing to put your cells in series. These also came with the cells. The wires you see there are actually part of the charger. There are two connectors which you must wire into the outlet style you want (one for 120v and one for 240v). I was expecting only 240V so this is nice I will now add two <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">separate</span> plug types on the car so I can recharge anywhere (120V plugs are much more common here). Using 120V will double the time it takes to charge, but it's better than not charging.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZNWv3bI/AAAAAAAAAck/hSCpdkGgpaE/s1600-h/IMG_1518_small.jpg"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3r8F4TRI/AAAAAAAAAc8/f2hO6uItYwo/s1600-h/IMG_1515_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072265141734674" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3r8F4TRI/AAAAAAAAAc8/f2hO6uItYwo/s400/IMG_1515_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the charger. Elite has a variety of options here. I picked the 200V max, 24 amp max charger. You can dial in the voltage and amps you'd like to charge at. This makes this charger very versatile for different pack configurations and charge stations. So if perhaps you are sharing an outlet with some other amp sucking EV you can dial down the amp draw and avoid a tripped breaker. The back, which I forget to show, has a DB9 connector for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">BMS</span> interface and the two power connectors.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3YwHq5RI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Cd1YT0PjL1U/s1600-h/IMG_1517_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071935510504722" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3YwHq5RI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Cd1YT0PjL1U/s400/IMG_1517_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Here is the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">BMS</span>. Damn there are a lot of wires and connectors in this box. I'll go into more detail on the pieces here and the others as I install them to show which connections go where. I'm also currently waiting on the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">English</span> instruction version for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">BMS</span>. I don't read Chinese sadly.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE4QyL2oaI/AAAAAAAAAdc/g7YhvGCcafU/s1600-h/IMG_1518_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072898137596322" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE4QyL2oaI/AAAAAAAAAdc/g7YhvGCcafU/s400/IMG_1518_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>That's it for now until I get time to start building the battery racks and get this all installed. Hopefully soon!</div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/01/batteries-arrive.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Money has been tight after ordering the batteries and the holidays so progress has been rather slow lately. This is technically the second heater but I will only fully document the final design.<br /><br />I first built a water heater utilizing the existing heater core. It used a 1500 watt engine block heater and pump to circulate the water. I decided not to use this setup for a few reasons. First and least important was the noise I could hear from the pump circulating the water. A few people recommended a pump that was very quiet but after further thought I didn't try it out. The second reason was the amount of heat I noticed on the outside of the heater unit itself. I figured if all that heat was on the outside it was wasted energy especially while driving if air was passing over the heater. The hoses also get very hot on the outside which again means energy lose. Last I figured this gave me a fluid that could leak, and therefore something that needed to be checked from time to time.<br /><br />So, as many others have done, I went for the ceramic heater setup which replaces the water heater core with an electric version. Mine, however, well be quite different from the typical basic ceramic install as you'll see later.<br /><br />The first part in building a ceramic heater is removing the heater core and this is not an easy task, especially with newer vehicles. As I've mentioned before, get the service manual for your vehicle as it will really save you time during your build.<br /><br />I won't go into boring details of the dash removal but figured I'd still post a few pictures to give you an idea.<br /><br />Here is a pile of plastic trim, air bags, steering column, etc which is well over a foot tall. There are a few things in the picture to give some perspective. Of course also not shown is the full dash itself.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjeo-deI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/NiKzWNyEhvM/s1600-h/IMG_1394_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071529262872034" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjeo-deI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/NiKzWNyEhvM/s400/IMG_1394_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture after removing the dash. I thought I was home free at this point. I was wrong. From the middle to the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">passenger</span> side you can see the heater box, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">blower</span> assembly and condenser unit. The blower and condenser needed to also be removed to get to the heater box. This really wasn't that much more work but meant the refrigerant needed to be evacuated. I was hoping to avoid that.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjTdZfoI/AAAAAAAAAaI/EaHn37PpDMU/s1600-h/IMG_1395_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071526261522050" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjTdZfoI/AAAAAAAAAaI/EaHn37PpDMU/s400/IMG_1395_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>A slightly closer picture with the heater box finally out! Look at all those wires! Most of them are attached to the dash so this is really nothing.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYl7aUTI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/4DKwCxHQ8_k/s1600-h/IMG_1396_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071342240682290" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYl7aUTI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/4DKwCxHQ8_k/s400/IMG_1396_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />At last the heater core itself is removed.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYiCR_rI/AAAAAAAAAZw/gnJrvQX3VXA/s1600-h/IMG_1397_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071341195755186" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYiCR_rI/AAAAAAAAAZw/gnJrvQX3VXA/s400/IMG_1397_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the heater core itself. It's a lot skinnier than I thought it would be.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYUt9zeI/AAAAAAAAAZo/zybu2Cgcsrc/s1600-h/IMG_1467_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071337620884962" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYUt9zeI/AAAAAAAAAZo/zybu2Cgcsrc/s400/IMG_1467_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">OK</span> on to building the new heater core. I purchased this ceramic heater from <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Kmart</span> for $30. It was the cheapest ceramic heater they had. First I purchased a $20 heater which was not ceramic and just used five coils of wire. I doubt these would hold up well with the vibrations of a car. It was so cold in the garage I just kept it for a shop heater :)</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Here I am testing the temperature coming out of the heater. 231 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Fahrenheit</span>, hopefully that will do the trick on the cold mornings. It rarely gets below 40 where I live so this should do just fine.</div><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYXZJQ-I/AAAAAAAAAZg/qq2A_C2KE8I/s1600-h/IMG_1398_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071338338862050" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYXZJQ-I/AAAAAAAAAZg/qq2A_C2KE8I/s400/IMG_1398_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now for a test to see how much power this heater really draws. It bounced around quite a bit while running but it's drawing right around 1500 watts as advertised.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHWKyjkI/AAAAAAAAAZY/WLjTNptECAQ/s1600-h/IMG_1399_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071045952441922" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHWKyjkI/AAAAAAAAAZY/WLjTNptECAQ/s400/IMG_1399_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the ceramic heater element itself.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHYSmEiI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/nqW7gyweVZc/s1600-h/IMG_1401_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071046522049058" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHYSmEiI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/nqW7gyweVZc/s400/IMG_1401_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the first place my heater will be different than most others. Instead of destroying my original heater core which I hope to sell to get some cash back I'll build my own. I'm using aluminum 1/8" thick for all the pieces. The main frame is 1" square tubing.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Below I've cut out a recess for the heater to set in with my plasma cutter. It was cut slightly higher and angled in to allow clearance for the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">outer</span> terminals.</div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG0bhubI/AAAAAAAAAZI/zjZJANR22CY/s1600-h/IMG_1457_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071036895836594" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG0bhubI/AAAAAAAAAZI/zjZJANR22CY/s400/IMG_1457_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I messed around to see if I could weld this assembly but aluminum is a huge pain to weld with a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">MIG</span> welder. To be honest I was suppose to use 100% argon gas but was only trying it with my 75% argon 25% CO2 mix so it failed horribly. I couldn't afford to get another <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">cylinder</span> for the argon gas so fell back on self tapping screws to hold it together.</div><br /><div><br />Here you can see on the left a piece of flat laid across the side and end pieces using the self tapping screws to hold it together.</div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG3zRtqI/AAAAAAAAAZA/Rh8PFmymfUg/s1600-h/IMG_1458_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071037800756898" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG3zRtqI/AAAAAAAAAZA/Rh8PFmymfUg/s400/IMG_1458_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is one side assembled. The screws go into the side pieces and the end pieces.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG-ab4kI/AAAAAAAAAY4/PiuPkJUepos/s1600-h/IMG_1459_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071039575614018" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG-ab4kI/AAAAAAAAAY4/PiuPkJUepos/s400/IMG_1459_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I drilled a 1/2" hole on the top for the wires and put a couple of grommets in there to protect the wires from the rough metal holes.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX74CBEuI/AAAAAAAAAYw/9lZwaRWFmEg/s1600-h/IMG_1460_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070848884019938" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX74CBEuI/AAAAAAAAAYw/9lZwaRWFmEg/s400/IMG_1460_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now I need to make some plates to fill in the gaps where the ceramic heater doesn't cover. I used a piece of metal clamped down to the plating I was cutting to act as a guide for my plasma cutter.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX72NJviI/AAAAAAAAAYo/rCrTKrKYbGE/s1600-h/IMG_1461_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070848393854498" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX72NJviI/AAAAAAAAAYo/rCrTKrKYbGE/s400/IMG_1461_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the bottom plate installed.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX793ShJI/AAAAAAAAAYg/JzOMqJ9CRIk/s1600-h/IMG_1462_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070850449638546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX793ShJI/AAAAAAAAAYg/JzOMqJ9CRIk/s400/IMG_1462_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It's hard to see here but I've cut some slits into the side pieces to allow me to bend them in. This will give a solid piece on the sides a good distance away from the ceramic heater element to allow about a 1/4" of silicone.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX7QAp2NI/AAAAAAAAAYY/hesyV4QyUxo/s1600-h/IMG_1463_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070838140885202" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX7QAp2NI/AAAAAAAAAYY/hesyV4QyUxo/s400/IMG_1463_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I originally cut out small pieces of plastic (from a coolant <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">reservoir</span> I used on the water heater setup) to keep the ceramic heater from touching any metal. This is very important not to short out the heater element to the frame. However, the plastic couldn't withstand the high temperatures if the airflow was too low so I removed these and replaced the gap with more silicone.<br /><div><br /><div><br />I used a high temp (650 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Fahrenheit</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">silicone</span> gasket sealant putting about 1/4" on both sides and bottom. I then cut and installed the top plate. Both of these plates will force all the air to pass through the heater element and not be able to bypass it.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXty5mQAI/AAAAAAAAAYA/8c7cnsTF3Sc/s1600-h/IMG_1466_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070606988361730" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXty5mQAI/AAAAAAAAAYA/8c7cnsTF3Sc/s400/IMG_1466_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a side-by-side of the water and electric heater cores.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt2J6CqI/AAAAAAAAAX4/r_IdmM9ez7g/s1600-h/IMG_1468_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070607862074018" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt2J6CqI/AAAAAAAAAX4/r_IdmM9ez7g/s400/IMG_1468_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next I added a foam stripping to all sides and the top. This not only keeps the element from being able to move a little inside the heater box but adds a little more sealing to keep air moving through the element and not around it.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt3SYEJI/AAAAAAAAAXw/BNy9LHqn0ys/s1600-h/IMG_1469_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070608166031506" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt3SYEJI/AAAAAAAAAXw/BNy9LHqn0ys/s400/IMG_1469_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the completed heater being installed back into the heater box. Now that the new core was complete I also did a quick continuity check with my multimeter to make sure that none of the elements were grounded to the frame.<br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXti9wbuI/AAAAAAAAAXo/063I6DrdgGA/s1600-h/IMG_1470_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070602710839010" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXti9wbuI/AAAAAAAAAXo/063I6DrdgGA/s400/IMG_1470_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here is a shot in the housing with a wiring harness built for it. There are five seperate 12 gauge wires inside the harness coming from each section of the element.</div><div></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SWQOkO2IlRI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/NdNTXcIkPyc/s1600-h/IMG_1486_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288367878063035666" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SWQOkO2IlRI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/NdNTXcIkPyc/s400/IMG_1486_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>Later I will show the electronics and wiring side of the heater. The five wires actually allows for more than the two heater settings (low/high) that they give you and I will be taking advantage of this to allow for more levels of heating. This will not be done, however, through any switches. I will use the existing hot/cold knob and build a circuit to detect changes to this and convert that into a desired temperature setting. Then depending on the temperature differential I will determine how much heat to output. This should end up a lot better than a simple on/off switch on the dash and will use less power when only a little heat is needed without completing shutting down which would then be shooting cooler air out the vents.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>I reinstalled the dash and did a quick AC test with the heater. My garage was around 47 F and so was the inside of the car when I started. I was able to get the car up to 80 F. I also measured the vent temperature and I was getting 115 F. I compared this to my truck after it heated up which was putting out 140 F. I'm not sure what my original temp would have been in the car but figured this was at least some reference point. In addition I'll be running the heater on 144v DC so it will actually get hotter than the AC test.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2008/12/building-heater.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After months of debating which batteries to buy the deed is done and there is no going back. I originally started this build with the idea of using the typical LA(Lead Acid) battery as the power source. After doing the math and seeing what other EVs range seemed to be it didn't seem LA could really get the range I was looking for, at least not without making my car weigh in a 4,000 lbs. I ordered 45 of the <a href="http://www.thunder-sky.com/products_en.asp">ThunderSky </a>LFP-160Ah modules at $264 a pop, not cheap. On top of that the charger and BMS system added another $3,000. The full setup was ordered from <a href="http://www.elitepowersolutions.com/">Elite Power Solutions</a>.<br /><br />The amount of money up front for this setup is scary but after doing the math the investment should be well worth it in the long run. First off I can get about four times the capacity out of them as LA pound for pound. The setup I ordered will add 550 lbs. of lithium to the car which should keep the overall weight of the build at or maybe slightly below the original weight. This compared to most EV conversions needing the suspension beefed up to support the extra weight. Lighter will also mean faster acceleration than with the LA and also less power required to accelerate.<br /><br />A standard LA battery last around 200 charges. Some of the higher end cells can go as much as 400 cycles. Cycle life of the lithium cells start at 1000 and go as high as 3000 cycles for 70% DOD. If I used flooded LA and got 200 cycles out of them I would still break even if I only got 800 cycles out of the lithium cells so I shouldn't have any trouble getting my moneys worth if the cells hold up....we'll see.<br /><br />Hurry up and wait. So now that I finally committed to this purchase I get to wait for 5 to 9 weeks for them to arrive. UGH. I'll take this time to work on the electric systems of the car and hopefully have things ready to go when the cells arrive.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
It's just too cool to see the car moving that words can't describe. I got my neighbor to video as I backed it out of my driveway up the street a bit and then back in. I edited the video to shorten it up since at 12volts it wasn't moving very fast if there was much of an incline.<br /><br /><br /><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOG_video_class" id="BLOG_video-d3a38460f1ce5687" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="movie" value="http://www.blogger.com/img/videoplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.goo gle.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl% 3DqAAAABjzXX0P2a8vxnDt-OvRPGDG6vIsVOB9H0vngreSSTmwL_zupj_1WR7SgBzd2voLoAC S5RCGKdyJtoJaVx8qtinyzuS49NQEwoUJNQiEKldCY3llF3gZr UczmEH9et7g5XmA3RG6qEeRo4-8sXXh3MsY5_oXWj-yoYYSEFtjSXj_evJ9wa6HVapFZgMFNyo4ZXe4Z4FlvdqQBOx88 f5YuvGPTFEfNhS3rJ9KliSgCBVI%26sigh%3D_WcGLq7o-l4nJeRJ8wScmgNlAJs%26begin%3D0%26len%3D86400000%26 docid%3D0&nogvlm=1&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumb nailServer2%3Fapp%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dd3a38460 f1ce5687%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw320%26sigh%3D xB3swyI8w_xr-NwuqM61ddf0v7c&messagesUrl=video.google.com%2FFlashUiStrings.xlb% 3Fframe%3Dflashstrings%26hl%3Den"><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF"><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.blogger.com/img/videoplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.goo gle.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl% 3DqAAAABjzXX0P2a8vxnDt-OvRPGDG6vIsVOB9H0vngreSSTmwL_zupj_1WR7SgBzd2voLoAC S5RCGKdyJtoJaVx8qtinyzuS49NQEwoUJNQiEKldCY3llF3gZr UczmEH9et7g5XmA3RG6qEeRo4-8sXXh3MsY5_oXWj-yoYYSEFtjSXj_evJ9wa6HVapFZgMFNyo4ZXe4Z4FlvdqQBOx88 f5YuvGPTFEfNhS3rJ9KliSgCBVI%26sigh%3D_WcGLq7o-l4nJeRJ8wScmgNlAJs%26begin%3D0%26len%3D86400000%26 docid%3D0&nogvlm=1&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumb nailServer2%3Fapp%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dd3a38460 f1ce5687%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw320%26sigh%3D xB3swyI8w_xr-NwuqM61ddf0v7c&messagesUrl=video.google.com%2FFlashUiStrings.xlb% 3Fframe%3Dflashstrings%26hl%3Den" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After taking a nice vacation to Oregon for some quad riding in the dunes and getting over a nasty cold I was finally able to get back to the project. First I needed to hoist the motor and transmission down into the car so I could start measuring things and figuring out how to build the motor mount. I knew this would be a two man job even with the hoist so I grabbed my neighbor again for some help. The top center bolt of the adapter plate to transmission turned out to be perfectly balanced for the setup.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApJyHosI/AAAAAAAAASo/OyMaCPnDUnI/s1600-h/IMG_1169_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890102466388674" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApJyHosI/AAAAAAAAASo/OyMaCPnDUnI/s400/IMG_1169_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is another closer shot to show what we have to work with. You can see the original two motor mounts that we need to eventually tie into. Still plenty of room in here for other things later such as batteries.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApGzGlhI/AAAAAAAAASg/ziVyax2pxSg/s1600-h/IMG_1168_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890101665207826" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApGzGlhI/AAAAAAAAASg/ziVyax2pxSg/s400/IMG_1168_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a top down view just to show another angle. My neighbor had a good idea of using this strap to support the motor weight so the car could easily be moved around if needed.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAo1g2IlI/AAAAAAAAASY/FL_el1hx1pU/s1600-h/IMG_1226_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890097025229394" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAo1g2IlI/AAAAAAAAASY/FL_el1hx1pU/s400/IMG_1226_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />A quick note about the rotation of the motor. It turns out that all Honda engines do not rotate counter clockwise like I read. At least the S2000 rotates clockwise. This effects where the front motor mount holes need to be so make sure your motor is setup correctly before making your motor mount.<br /><br />Let the work begin. Here I am making my first cut of the project.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAdHU4b2I/AAAAAAAAASQ/PpqVoHRfiNo/s1600-h/IMG_1229_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889895648456546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAdHU4b2I/AAAAAAAAASQ/PpqVoHRfiNo/s400/IMG_1229_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is one of the brackets made to set against the adapter plate and utilize those bolts to build a frame around the motor. A plasma cutter makes these custom corners a breeze. The metal used here was 3/16" x 3" flat bar.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAc5Dz3eI/AAAAAAAAASI/NFjtJhAlqEE/s1600-h/IMG_1235_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889891818757602" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAc5Dz3eI/AAAAAAAAASI/NFjtJhAlqEE/s400/IMG_1235_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />That same mount shown in place.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcwathnI/AAAAAAAAASA/Nfb7tzYv2gU/s1600-h/IMG_1236_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889889498891890" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcwathnI/AAAAAAAAASA/Nfb7tzYv2gU/s400/IMG_1236_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Next I welded 1/4" x 1 1/2" angle to the plate.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADU--0CI/AAAAAAAAARo/zChA6-AFWe4/s1600-h/IMG_1250_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889452638097442" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADU--0CI/AAAAAAAAARo/zChA6-AFWe4/s400/IMG_1250_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>I made another plate for the other side of the motor. These couldn't set at the same level on this side and are slightly higher overall because the closest bolt to the center is below the angle iron in this shot and can't be seen.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADFiSTWI/AAAAAAAAARg/W45fKW5GMWI/s1600-h/IMG_1251_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889448491208034" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADFiSTWI/AAAAAAAAARg/W45fKW5GMWI/s400/IMG_1251_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is the finished support frame. The front bracket was also 3/16" x 3" flat. The center was notched out for the secondary output shaft of the motor. The two ears were added to bolt to the front of the motor. We'll see how all this fits a bit later.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACn0qB7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/GLqsXWz1Nfk/s1600-h/IMG_1253_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889440515196850" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACn0qB7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/GLqsXWz1Nfk/s400/IMG_1253_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Finally on the frame assembly two holes have been drilled on each side to mount the brackets that attach to the old motor mounts. These must be bolted on and NOT welded because the motor mount bolts are at an angle and the motor will not drop in properly if it's all welded together.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADEdWbvI/AAAAAAAAARY/o1JESw7O2oU/s1600-h/IMG_1252_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889448202071794" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADEdWbvI/AAAAAAAAARY/o1JESw7O2oU/s400/IMG_1252_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is one of the two motor mount adapters. It's hard to see here but there is a bend to metal to transmission from the angle of the motor mounts to the level frame support. The larger center hole on the left is a 1/2" hole and existing motor mount bolt goes here. The slightly offset hole from there is an alignment hole where the motor mount has a tab sticking up. The two smaller holes are for the mounting to the frame support. I used 3/8" bolts here and drilled the holes one size up from there. The most important feature of these adapters is the small strips of metal on each side. They create a triangular shape and add a great amount of support against the weight that will be pushing down on them.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcUOYdHI/AAAAAAAAARw/mKxXGXyIZkA/s1600-h/IMG_1249_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889881930986610" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcUOYdHI/AAAAAAAAARw/mKxXGXyIZkA/s400/IMG_1249_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here is a quick shot of the whole assembly before we take it out for paint. It's much easier to the angle of the mount adapters in this shot. At this point I've probably installed and removed pieces of this a dozen times as the measurements were made and it was all built.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAccCIj6I/AAAAAAAAAR4/RrLrP87LXpI/s1600-h/IMG_1248_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889884027096994" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAccCIj6I/AAAAAAAAAR4/RrLrP87LXpI/s400/IMG_1248_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is the whole assembly again after a primer, two coats of semi flat black and one coat of clear.<br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACbPfE2I/AAAAAAAAARI/qj-T48VjB8E/s1600-h/IMG_1277_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889437138064226" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACbPfE2I/AAAAAAAAARI/qj-T48VjB8E/s400/IMG_1277_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot from the back side of the assembly.<br /><div><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JgKsztI/AAAAAAAAAQo/h8CUpGVHMZQ/s1600-h/IMG_1278_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888459207626450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JgKsztI/AAAAAAAAAQo/h8CUpGVHMZQ/s400/IMG_1278_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Here are those two ears I was talking about earlier. These are the only two spots on the motor. Depending on how you build your plate and fasten it to the motor these two bolts could end up anywhere. You do have the option of rotating them in 90 degree increments though by rotating the motor on the adapter plate. I didn't feel like taking everything back apart and didn't see much benefit from a rotation so I worked with what I had.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JFGD6ZI/AAAAAAAAAQY/f3FlSeSYRyw/s1600-h/IMG_1280_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888451940411794" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JFGD6ZI/AAAAAAAAAQY/f3FlSeSYRyw/s400/IMG_1280_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div></div><div>Here we have the completed and installed motor mount from the right side of the car. The largest bolt on the plate connecting to the adapter plate originally called for 47 foot pounds and that was reused here. The motor mount nuts were torqued to original spec of 40 lb/ft and the newly added 3/8" bolts were torqued to 35 lb/ft.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_I5YdgwI/AAAAAAAAAQI/FQ6GwVTyadY/s1600-h/IMG_1282_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888448796361474" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_I5YdgwI/AAAAAAAAAQI/FQ6GwVTyadY/s400/IMG_1282_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot from the right side of the car. You can see here that bolt is just below the angle iron and a tight fit. Make sure you give yourself enough clearance to get a socket in there. Also I mentioned earlier this side had to set slightly higher. You can't really see it here but I crafted two 1/4" x 1" x 3" spacers to set between the frame and the mount adapters to make up the 1/2" difference.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_wQJ8hjI/AAAAAAAAARA/aIzHnfe39h4/s1600-h/IMG_1281_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889124924393010" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_wQJ8hjI/AAAAAAAAARA/aIzHnfe39h4/s400/IMG_1281_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is a shot of the entire assembly installed.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_Jmv1ZwI/AAAAAAAAAQg/rlguHSPfj0w/s1600-h/IMG_1279_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888460973991682" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_Jmv1ZwI/AAAAAAAAAQg/rlguHSPfj0w/s400/IMG_1279_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>With this done I finished installing a few last things on the transmission (shifter, console, etc). Next I jacked up the rear of the car and put the transmission into 1st gear. I then tried the old 12 volt test again and the back wheels started spinning forward. Make sure to keep an ear out for any strange noises or vibrations. Things should be fairly quiet or something is wrong.</div><div></div><div>So then I couldn't resist. I lowered the rear of the car and ran the motor again. I was amazed at the torque from only 12v. The car immediately lunged forward and begin moving fairly quickly. I'm pretty excited at this point as things are slowly falling into place.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I started off by removing the bolt that holds the coupler and putting a drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">loctite</span> to make sure it doesn't come out. Even if it did the coupler had to be pressed on and I can't imagine it will ever move again, at least not without using a puller.<br /><br />Then I attached the spacers and adapter plate to the motor. Again using some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">loctite</span> and torqued these bolts to 40 ft lbs. With these bolts, and despite them being recessed were still very close the flywheel so I shortened the heads by .07" each using a bench grinder. I didn't want to risk them rubbing after perhaps the motor and transmission warmed up.<br /><br />Next the flywheel was bolted on. The original specs called for 90 ft lbs of torque but I dropped this down to 70 with a small drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">loctite</span>. The original crankshaft this was on was a hardened steel. The steel we are using is considered soft and I didn't want to risk pushing the material too hard and strip out a hole on something that took so long to make.<br /><br />We can now attach the clutch and clutch housing. This part can be tricky if you've never changed out a clutch. You'd think they'd design these different to avoid the problem but they don't. The problem is the clutch itself needs to be centered with the housing, and therefore the transmission input shaft. If you simply tighten all the bolts the clutch will probably be too low (gravity) and you'll never be able to push the transmission and motor together. Usually you can just buy an alignment tool that you slide in while you torque the bolts. I didn't have one so made one out of a 17mm socket and some electric tape. It wasn't perfect but allowed me to slightly move the socket on an extension until I could see it was aligned before tightening the bolts. These bolts called for 19 ft lbs and again I used just a small drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">loctite</span>.<br /><br />Next came the hard part. The two guide pin holes we drilled are very slightly off and it requires some elbow grease to get them started each time. After I finally got it together I realized the clutch arm had fallen out and I had to start over. This is a reverse clutch and it actually pulls on the clutch instead of pushing into it to release. It makes hooking the clutch arm into place tricky and has to be done at just the right time while you're mating the motor and transmission.<br /><br />Now the grand finale! I was so nervous to apply the 12v to the motor afraid I'd hear some rubbing, clanking, or just see the whole unit vibrating badly. All of this of course unfounded since I witnessed all the machining work. So I wired everything up and then touch the final wire to the battery. Luckily the transmission cross brace was still attached because that's what kept the whole unit from falling over as the initial torque kicked in. The motor always instantly reached its top speed for 12v and output shaft of the transmission was spinning happily along. Very quiet, very smooth...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">woohoo</span> it works!<br /><br />Of course the initial test wasn't enough as I was just too excited. I had to go get my wife, bang on my neighbors doors (he helped me strip the car down originally), call my uncle, try out a few of the gears just to see the output shaft spin at different speeds.<br /><br />Here is a quick shot of the completed assembly after the 12v test.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyiQiyVsI/AAAAAAAAAP4/kIAVycjsa0Y/s1600-h/IMG_1166_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258148866581223106" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyiQiyVsI/AAAAAAAAAP4/kIAVycjsa0Y/s400/IMG_1166_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Another shot so you can see another angle.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyi_j2zXI/AAAAAAAAAQA/v-9bUCxlNi0/s1600-h/IMG_1167_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258148879202176370" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyi_j2zXI/AAAAAAAAAQA/v-9bUCxlNi0/s400/IMG_1167_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next comes hoisting the motor/transmission into place in the car and taking measurements for the motor mount that needs to be built next.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I finally got some time from my uncle to machine the parts and it took longer than we anticipated. Engineering as you go and a lot of measuring twice before you cut really added to the time but I think we'll end up with a reliable setup.<br /><br />I loaded up the truck with everything I could think I needed and headed to my Uncle's house.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy1PADjI/AAAAAAAAAOw/A4gHuzA_Xgk/s1600-h/IMG_1123_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582902819950130" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy1PADjI/AAAAAAAAAOw/A4gHuzA_Xgk/s400/IMG_1123_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />First was to create the coupler. The coupler needed to be 3.125" OD with a 1.125" ID with a .25" key. Here is a picture of the raw metal before we began to work with it.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy8BAmPI/AAAAAAAAAO4/SqjYR3hsDqU/s1600-h/IMG_1124_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582904640313586" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy8BAmPI/AAAAAAAAAO4/SqjYR3hsDqU/s400/IMG_1124_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A shot of the metal slowly getting turned down to the diameter we need.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzCgGhII/AAAAAAAAAPA/yDvIY8e4vOs/s1600-h/IMG_1127_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582906381337730" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzCgGhII/AAAAAAAAAPA/yDvIY8e4vOs/s400/IMG_1127_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It's starting to take shape. You can see the end is a little less than 2" wide and about .200" deep if I recall. We did this so the coupler could sit flush against the motor bearing and wouldn't be able to work its way in.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzBvHKwI/AAAAAAAAAPI/ltmRCyTUEWg/s1600-h/IMG_1128_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582906175859458" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzBvHKwI/AAAAAAAAAPI/ltmRCyTUEWg/s400/IMG_1128_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here we are cutting the coupler slightly longer than we want it. This was the only step of the lathing process that had enough friction to require a lubricant.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_TF9OoI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/4x_BBB_iBEI/s1600-h/IMG_1131_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583116993510018" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_TF9OoI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/4x_BBB_iBEI/s400/IMG_1131_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now we are slowly shaving off the end to bring it down to the exact length we need.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_ppwt6I/AAAAAAAAAPY/q30KOxwvhv8/s1600-h/IMG_1135_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583123049265058" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_ppwt6I/AAAAAAAAAPY/q30KOxwvhv8/s400/IMG_1135_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />After the basic coupler was shaped out we broached out the key way using a 40 ton press. This was so cool to watch I forgot to take pictures.<br /><br />Next we needed to drill and tap the holes. We used the flywheel as the template and a drill bit that was the same size as the hole to make an initial mark before moving down to the correct bit. To use the existing bolts you'll need an 11mm drill bit and a 12mm - 1mm pitch tap. This is not at all easy to find. My Uncle had to order it from a supplier he uses. You won't find this at Napa or Ace as it's a very uncommon pitch for that diameter.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavyuOJoZI/AAAAAAAAAOo/GFaOcnC2vrg/s1600-h/2943513352_f654fdbc60.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582900937335186" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavyuOJoZI/AAAAAAAAAOo/GFaOcnC2vrg/s400/2943513352_f654fdbc60.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the final coupler installed on the motor. A couple things I didn't capture on film was the recessed washer and bolt which screws in from the front. We had to recess these to give clearance for the transmission input shaft. We also are using a beveled hex bolt and we beveled the washer on the lathe to match and recess the bolt further. A quick coat of paint to help with rust and we are done. Notice the black garbage bag duct tapped around the motor. This is quick and cheap to do and will prevent anything getting in the motor during the build.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAX2ACJI/AAAAAAAAAPo/U3TPDcRhf-0/s1600-h/IMG_1163_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583135448631442" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAX2ACJI/AAAAAAAAAPo/U3TPDcRhf-0/s400/IMG_1163_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the simple yet invaluable alignment tool. Basically the adapter plate has an existing 4" ID and the coupler is 3.125" OD. So we machine this tool to slide over the coupler and then the adapter plate slides over that allowing us to perfectly align the plate with the center of the transmission.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPaukDvxNMI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CY8N1NXbTMU/s1600-h/IMG_1136_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257581549505819842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPaukDvxNMI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CY8N1NXbTMU/s400/IMG_1136_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the shot making sure the alignment tool works. It's a tight fit, just like we want. The outer darker metal ring is the steel alignment tool.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAThtpnI/AAAAAAAAAPg/p2ok14TivBA/s1600-h/IMG_1138_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583134289798770" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAThtpnI/AAAAAAAAAPg/p2ok14TivBA/s400/IMG_1138_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />There were quite a few steps again here that I couldn't take pictures of. We needed more hands than we had.<br /><br />The first thing you'll do is use any alignment pins on the transmission and mark those across first. Simply slide your plate onto the alignment tool and find a good position that will make sure no part of the transmission is sticking out past the edges. Then using a rubber mallet give the plate a whack over the pins to mark out their location.<br /><br />In order to start marking your holes you'll need a couple of things. First is a good set of transfer punches. This can be placed in different sized holes and mark the center where we'll need to drill. There were four holes on the tranny that were threaded and we couldn't use a transfer punch. We bought extra bolts and cut the heads off and turned a perfectly centered point in the lathe. We could then use our mallet again to mark these locations and drill them all out.<br /><br />After we had all of our holes drilled out we butted the transmision to the adapter plate and secured it with a few bolts and marked the outline which you can barely see as a scratch in the metal.<br /><div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat8-K_MxI/AAAAAAAAANw/LoqzXcneocM/s1600-h/2943518914_4f9fbe59fd.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580877994472210" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat8-K_MxI/AAAAAAAAANw/LoqzXcneocM/s400/2943518914_4f9fbe59fd.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Now comes the cutting. In our case the most precision cutting tool we had was a plasma cutter. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9OYgcWI/AAAAAAAAAN4/Tcydz_2insA/s1600-h/2943515474_08444a2b28.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580882346144098" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9OYgcWI/AAAAAAAAAN4/Tcydz_2insA/s400/2943515474_08444a2b28.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>It's not a perfect cut but only took about two minutes. I later took a grinder to the sides to clean it up a little bit but it doesn't need to be perfect as this edge is only cosmetic.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9Ddiw4I/AAAAAAAAAOA/vG8JK4ZOROQ/s1600-h/2943512798_87e78fdff8.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580879414477698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9Ddiw4I/AAAAAAAAAOA/vG8JK4ZOROQ/s400/2943512798_87e78fdff8.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>So next we realized the flywheel didn't have enough clearance and was rubbing on the plate. We then had to bevel the inside ring of the plate and recess the four motor bolts. I believe we put those in about .150".<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9K8EyiI/AAAAAAAAAOI/kFXR0QovF7Q/s1600-h/2942660391_87095525d1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580881421584930" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9K8EyiI/AAAAAAAAAOI/kFXR0QovF7Q/s400/2942660391_87095525d1.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here we finally have the transmission mounted to the motor! The clutch and flywheel at this point were not actually attached to the coupler. My uncle and cousin held the assembly in place while I snapped a quick picture.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9rA1HRI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/EGAmS7QWY_s/s1600-h/2943519452_ccbd535170.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580890031463698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9rA1HRI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/EGAmS7QWY_s/s400/2943519452_ccbd535170.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>The next step will be to tear this back down and reassemble it with proper torques specs, locking compound, etc and then finally give it the 12v test!</div><div></div><div>I also had about 80k miles on this setup so I'm going to spend the money and replace the pilot and throw out bearings while I'm here. I'm thinking of just replacing the clutch too as it does show some decent wear.</div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Well I haven't updated the blog lately because there hasn't been any progress lately. I'm really stuck waiting to install the motor and tranny now and that means this adapter plate and coupler need to get finished. After some incorrect parts came in I finally got some pre machined parts I've been waiting on.<br /><br />Here is the main adapter plate. The pre drilled holes you see are ready to fit the ADC FB1-4001A motor.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4VhPVRNI/AAAAAAAAANo/cM12dGbi820/s1600-h/IMG_1098_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162883121267922" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4VhPVRNI/AAAAAAAAANo/cM12dGbi820/s400/IMG_1098_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is one of the four spacers I calculated I'll need to get the distance correct between the coupler edge and the adapter plate edge.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QJ0BjII/AAAAAAAAANA/BioIooM97EM/s1600-h/IMG_1099_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162790933367938" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QJ0BjII/AAAAAAAAANA/BioIooM97EM/s400/IMG_1099_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />You can see six bolt holes total above. The outer four match the bolt holes on the motor. The inner two are designed to be used with the tension pins shown below. Tapping these pins into the holes will hold the whole assembly together.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QQ2rdkI/AAAAAAAAANI/FsnFY5maul0/s1600-h/IMG_1100_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162792823551554" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QQ2rdkI/AAAAAAAAANI/FsnFY5maul0/s400/IMG_1100_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A shot of the spacers and adatper plate behind held together with the tension pins. Note the final bolts from the adapter plate side into the motor is what will actually hold this together under the strains of operation. These are only to hold it gether during assembly but will remain in place.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QvRwFcI/AAAAAAAAANQ/86UKDTO7uG4/s1600-h/IMG_1101_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162800990164418" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QvRwFcI/AAAAAAAAANQ/86UKDTO7uG4/s400/IMG_1101_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the assembly sitting on the motor. You can see how the spacers push the adapter plate away from the motor. This allows me to build a coupler that is long enough to fit onto the entire shaft and give plenty of threads for holding the flywheel to it. The adapter plate will eventually be cut to match the shape of the transmission.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RKkAVfI/AAAAAAAAANY/gYlFnsuawvY/s1600-h/IMG_1102_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162808314484210" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RKkAVfI/AAAAAAAAANY/gYlFnsuawvY/s400/IMG_1102_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />An inside shot of where the couplter will go. To match the original distance the coupler will actually inset just slightly from the adapter plate. We may need to do some milling on the face of the adapter plate so the flywheel doens't hit.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RR-m-xI/AAAAAAAAANg/aNOQhpk7Ssg/s1600-h/IMG_1103_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162810305116946" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RR-m-xI/AAAAAAAAANg/aNOQhpk7Ssg/s400/IMG_1103_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Sadly that's it for now. I'm now waiting for when is a good time for my uncle to machine the coupler and finish up the adapter plate to match the transmission. Looks like this will be early October. The anticipation of getting to drive this when it's done is killing me! I think I'll spend the next couple weeks working on my AC and heater designs.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Now we'll build a sensor for detecting the RPM of the motor. This number is important for safety of the motor, efficient when driving, and most importantly my power steering needs this value. Sure I could just spoof a number to make it happy but would much rather have the real value and display it on the original tachometer.<br /><br />First off the sensor we will be using is a Melexis 90217 Hall-Effect Sensor. This is really a great sensor. It auto calibrates itself depending on the seen variations in magnetic fields and has a built in ADC. The sensor can be used in a few ways but in this case it seems easier to use the gear tooth pickup feature. Basically you can add a magnet to one side of the sensor and then by running metal past the sensor on the other side causes the magnetic field to pass through the sensor. As each tooth passes by it detects the tooth. Take the total count for a given period of time and divide that by your number of teeth and then convert that time frame to minutes for your RPM!<br /><br />I picked up a few supplies from a local Tractor Supply and of course hardware store. I found a keyed collar that was 3/4" (secondary output shaft). I also found a 3/4" gear which I figured I could use. They also had the 1/4"x1" key I needed to lock the collar to the motor shaft. I also picked up a plastic spacer. I needed something to house the sensor that wasn't a material the magnetic force would be affected by. The long black thing is just some heat shrinking tubing.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHuAm27l4I/AAAAAAAAAM4/05rt4OPmj2A/s1600-h/IMG_1037_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229535806953346" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHuAm27l4I/AAAAAAAAAM4/05rt4OPmj2A/s400/IMG_1037_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />I put some heat shrink tubing around the magnet so that the pins of the sensor wouldn't short out across it. Next I hot glued the sensor to the magnet.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt75u50bI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/T0o1nc7MoTk/s1600-h/IMG_1036_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229454974210482" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt75u50bI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/T0o1nc7MoTk/s400/IMG_1036_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The sensor and magnet were then placed inside the plastic collar and hot glued into place. The connector is attached to the sensor.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8B2c0KI/AAAAAAAAAMY/Db_6P4j457I/s1600-h/IMG_1038_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229457153347746" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8B2c0KI/AAAAAAAAAMY/Db_6P4j457I/s400/IMG_1038_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a top view. You can see the sensor embedded in the spacer and hot glue.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8ELSQtI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Ei0fMqjkagE/s1600-h/IMG_1039_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229457777607378" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8ELSQtI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Ei0fMqjkagE/s400/IMG_1039_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Next I put a layer of heat shrink tubing around the whole thing (blue) followed by a few wraps of electrical tape. The sensor is ready.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Yz-SOI/AAAAAAAAAMo/-MIEGdKg63Y/s1600-h/IMG_1042_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229463316973794" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Yz-SOI/AAAAAAAAAMo/-MIEGdKg63Y/s400/IMG_1042_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Now we needed something to mount the sensor to that could be mounted to the motor. Again to avoid interfering with the magnetic field I choose an aluminum square tubing. It's easy to work with and doesn't need to be strong to only hold the sensor. It also allowed for the sensor and wire to be enclosed even further. I cut an oblong mounting hole so that it could be precisely adjusted above the gear if needed.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Xz9pEI/AAAAAAAAAMw/7zBDfpc1Dzs/s1600-h/IMG_1043_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229463048496194" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Xz9pEI/AAAAAAAAAMw/7zBDfpc1Dzs/s400/IMG_1043_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the completed sensor assembly. It was a snug fit into the tubing but I added some extra electrical tap anyway.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoOvCwKI/AAAAAAAAALw/GXl22ntygrk/s1600-h/IMG_1046_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229117014556834" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoOvCwKI/AAAAAAAAALw/GXl22ntygrk/s400/IMG_1046_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />I welded the gear to the collar and painted them to protect the steel from the elements. Not bad!<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoHoYOzI/AAAAAAAAALo/IeMqMIkW8rU/s1600-h/IMG_1045_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229115107556146" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoHoYOzI/AAAAAAAAALo/IeMqMIkW8rU/s400/IMG_1045_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the gear and sensor mounted to the motor. When I'm doing the final wiring I will protect the sensor wires in a loom. Right now I have a few extra washers bring the sensor out far enough. Later this will be replaced with the mount for my AC compressor.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvapIhPI/AAAAAAAAAL4/tsJRDEf02fc/s1600-h/IMG_1047_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229240470078706" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvapIhPI/AAAAAAAAAL4/tsJRDEf02fc/s400/IMG_1047_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of my setup testing the RPM sensor. Make sure you never apply more than 12 volts on this motor unless it's under load. You can seriously hurt the motor and yourself.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtviSfi3I/AAAAAAAAAMA/knDwJSNiJFE/s1600-h/IMG_1051_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229242522602354" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtviSfi3I/AAAAAAAAAMA/knDwJSNiJFE/s400/IMG_1051_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the output from my debugger. I'm doing a 250ms sample in this test so my number needs to be multiplied by 240 to get RPM. If I was doing a 1000ms, or 1 second, sample I would multiply by 60. In addition I have 12 teeth on the gear so the number must be divided by 12.<br />98 * 240 / 12 = 1960.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvny8nzI/AAAAAAAAAMI/Mm4--XTGBwc/s1600-h/IMG_1050_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229244000902962" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvny8nzI/AAAAAAAAAMI/Mm4--XTGBwc/s400/IMG_1050_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />In the final project a variance of the pulses, not RPM will be sent to the gauge and EPS unit. I think it was something like four pulses / revolution. I'll have to do some testing and compare my debugger numbers to the gauge to calibrate that.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">FB</span>1-4001 from Advanced DC motors is far from having all the bells and whistles you'd hope for. In fact the only sensor it has is an on/off over heat sensor that is open until the temperature has risen too high in which case the circuit closes. This is great for a dummy light or buzzer but for those of us who want real numbers all the time you'll have to make your own.<br /><br />I found a large bolt hole that I think was used to hoist the motor into the crate. It's a 5/16 course thread and looked like a good spot to mount the sensor. I bought a 1" 5/16 bolt, washer and a nut. The reason for the nut is so that I can shorten the bolt and then remove the nut which helps to clean up the threads after cutting them.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ahxqhI/AAAAAAAAAJw/o-wsXrCJihA/s1600-h/IMG_1056_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220719224105490" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ahxqhI/AAAAAAAAAJw/o-wsXrCJihA/s400/IMG_1056_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />After cutting the bolt I drilled a hole down the center of the bolt. The sensor will be installed here later.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ZUppQI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/22NlGB_pBO4/s1600-h/IMG_1059_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220718900618498" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ZUppQI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/22NlGB_pBO4/s400/IMG_1059_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The sensor is a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">LM</span>34 from National Semiconductor. There are quite a few ways to use this little guy depending on the temperature range you need. I'm just using the basic setup which allows for 5-300 degrees <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Fahrenheit</span>. Each degree will change the output signal by 10<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">mV</span>. Then by using an analog to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">digital</span> converter (ADC) you can get a nice digital readout of the temperature. Below is the sensor after connecting it to three wires and heat shrinking them so they can't touch.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ireG_I/AAAAAAAAAKA/V03RmVP35xU/s1600-h/IMG_1060_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220721412250610" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ireG_I/AAAAAAAAAKA/V03RmVP35xU/s400/IMG_1060_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Next I wrapped the whole thing in another heath shrink layer to hold it all together.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_hzqRHI/AAAAAAAAAKI/posH1Fkt-50/s1600-h/IMG_1061_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220721178166386" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_hzqRHI/AAAAAAAAAKI/posH1Fkt-50/s400/IMG_1061_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We are now ready to mount the sensor so I mixed up some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">JB</span> weld.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_2vMv4I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/XC4jvQ82VlM/s1600-h/IMG_1062_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220726796599170" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_2vMv4I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/XC4jvQ82VlM/s400/IMG_1062_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I filled the hole with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">JB</span> Weld and then inserted the sensor.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRNSMxtI/AAAAAAAAAKY/7l2uPnEjICo/s1600-h/IMG_1063_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221024906757842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRNSMxtI/AAAAAAAAAKY/7l2uPnEjICo/s400/IMG_1063_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The other side of the sensor after <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">JB</span> Weld.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRV9OsGI/AAAAAAAAAKg/rmkiF6e9tPo/s1600-h/IMG_1064_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221027234721890" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRV9OsGI/AAAAAAAAAKg/rmkiF6e9tPo/s400/IMG_1064_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />After it dried I applied a coat of paint. This is a steel bolt and will rust if not protected.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmReYoWxI/AAAAAAAAAKo/dE2SC6Z52qk/s1600-h/IMG_1065_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221029497133842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmReYoWxI/AAAAAAAAAKo/dE2SC6Z52qk/s400/IMG_1065_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Finally here is a shot of the new sensor installed in the motor. Later when finalizing the wiring during install I will protect the exposed sensor wires in a wiring loom.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRmWlvzI/AAAAAAAAAKw/_RxuBrOPvEA/s1600-h/IMG_1066_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221031636057906" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRmWlvzI/AAAAAAAAAKw/_RxuBrOPvEA/s400/IMG_1066_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the output from my debug terminal. I tried running the motor for awhile but with no load and only 12 volts going through it the temperature didn't rise. I did take the sensor and set it in direct sunlight and it went up 10 degrees in just a few minutes. The picture below is showing the ADC value that is being returned. It's a 12 bit ADC (0-5v) but you could easily go with less accuracy for the sensor.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmR8lHj0I/AAAAAAAAAK4/Y_DRZPgI9TI/s1600-h/IMG_1069_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221037602574146" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmR8lHj0I/AAAAAAAAAK4/Y_DRZPgI9TI/s400/IMG_1069_small.jpg" border="0" /></a>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After unpacking the motor I found a few things that EV America put in there for me. First was a document with a few warnings and guidelines. One that caught my eye was that motor can't be run in CW rotation unless ADC or a representative has modified the motor. The motor comes ready for <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">CCW</span> rotation which is good for most vehicles, except Honda as they run in CW rotation. I contacted EV America and they gave me a walk through on changing the motor. <div></div><div>In order to make the change rotation you need to release the springs on the brushes and then remove the four bolts holding the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">CEH</span> in place. You can then rotate the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">CEH</span>. The far left holes pictured here were for the original <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">CCW</span>, the next hole is for neutral whatever that means, and the bolts are currently in the CW location. These holes change the timing of the motor and determine which way it will want to pull. I had no idea it worked this and just figured you'd hook the polarity backwards to change the direction. Not the case here, it will rotate the same way regardless of polarity.</div><div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwM8x_0I/AAAAAAAAAJY/3PjC2GYz0hU/s1600-h/IMG_1026_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237788349811523394" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwM8x_0I/AAAAAAAAAJY/3PjC2GYz0hU/s400/IMG_1026_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Second I added screen (window screen) to the brush protector to keep out all but the smallest of objects. This will help prevent damage from small rocks flying up into the motor. The screen was attached with a hot glue gun and then I used scissors and a utility knife to cut it to size.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwC3SmSI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OVdMZzL6VPM/s1600-h/IMG_1025_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237788347104139554" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwC3SmSI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OVdMZzL6VPM/s400/IMG_1025_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of the motor assembled again. I manually rotated the motor by hand to make sure it was smooth. I put some small 6 gauge wire on for a quick 12 volt test to make sure the motor rotated the proper direction. I say small on the wire because I will be running 2/0 wire which will dwarf the 6 gauge wire. 6 gauge wire is actually quite large. For example this was the wire I used to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">pre wire</span> for my hot tub. You can also see in this picture the chain I attached using the bolt holes on each end to lift it out of the container.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBntXpegtI/AAAAAAAAAJo/Yb7NjKZb65s/s1600-h/IMG_1031_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237800395771642578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBntXpegtI/AAAAAAAAAJo/Yb7NjKZb65s/s400/IMG_1031_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Ok</span> here is probably the first EV part of the build I've done. I was going to wait on the vacuum system because you typically don't want to start planning where to place components until the motor is mounted. Overall from that point it's probably best to consider the larger items and work smaller to make sure you have room for everything. However, you may recall a spot in the far front left corner of the car where there was an emissions pump of sorts and I removed that. I just happens to be a great size to put my full vacuum system so I decided to get this piece of the project out of the way while I wait on the adapter plate/coupler pieces.<br /><br />Below is a vacuum reservoir that I built. It's designed to store extra volume of less pressure air. Typically an ICE (internal combustion engine) will generate approximately 10-20 in/Hg and in large volumes so there isn't a need for this as the existing reservoir will hold plenty. With an EV we need to be as efficient as possible. This involves using a somewhat small and efficient vacuum pump that will build up the vacuum over time. When the brakes are needed the reservoir will be able to produce multiple uses of the brakes before becoming depleted at which point you'll loose the power assist and it's much harder to depress the brake pedal to stop.<br /><br />The reservoir can be purchased but it's simple enough that most should create their own. All of the parts are easily found at a hardware store in the plumbing area. I used 4" ABS and the unit is about 8" to 10" long. In order to only have to deal with one hole that needed to be sealed I opted to use tees outside the reservoir. The one hole was thread with a tap and die set and a threaded tube was threaded using plumbers tape to help seal was ran through the top. On the inside a coupler was used allow me to really tighten things down. Plumbers tape was used on all connections to help avoid any leaks. The barbed fittings allow for hose to be slipped on and then using a ring clamp you can secure them well.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b7q_kpII/AAAAAAAAAJI/6sKMT59U22k/s1600-h/IMG_1010_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237154128645629058" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b7q_kpII/AAAAAAAAAJI/6sKMT59U22k/s400/IMG_1010_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I made my own bracket that would take advantage of the existing bolt holes in the frame and would allow me to fully mount the complete vacuum system in one shot. I believe this was<br />48"x 1"x 1/8" flat steel and cost about $4 with metal leftover.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJDQQCkI/AAAAAAAAAII/dOfWTOz6OBA/s1600-h/IMG_1011_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153258984704578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJDQQCkI/AAAAAAAAAII/dOfWTOz6OBA/s400/IMG_1011_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here you can see the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Gast</span> vacuum pump secured to the mounting bracket. In addition you can also see some rather large ring clamps that will hold the reservoir in place.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b71clJ1I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/PsigK4cJMq8/s1600-h/IMG_1012_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237154131451651922" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b71clJ1I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/PsigK4cJMq8/s400/IMG_1012_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bot8zcKI/AAAAAAAAAIo/cdXYbVrei_0/s1600-h/IMG_1010_small.jpg"></a><br /><div>A shot of the reservoir attached to the bracket. </div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJljnrnI/AAAAAAAAAIY/ggCrftukwPs/s1600-h/IMG_1013_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153268192751218" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJljnrnI/AAAAAAAAAIY/ggCrftukwPs/s400/IMG_1013_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is the assembly attached to the car. It's hard to see but all the vacuum lines have been attached. There isn't a special vacuum line. Anything that holds up well to the elements will do as long as the walls are not too thin in which case it could collapse under the vacuum. For all the major lines I'm just using a 3/8" ID black fuel line I found at the hardware store. You can also see a very small clear line. This runs over to the switch which is mounted to the back of the bracket. I forgot to take the picture of the switch being mounted but you can slightly see it where the red wire has the yellow shrink tubing sticking out. One of the barbed fittings was removed and capped before installation and after I had calibrated the vacuum switch.</div><div></div><div>To calibrate and test I hooked the hose my new vacuum system to the cars original reservoir and connected the battery directly. First I adjusted the switch until it turned off at 20 in/Hg. The pump is rated for a maximum of 25 but that usually means it will get pretty slow and take longer to reach that using more energy. Next I counted how long it took to bring the system from atmospheric pressure to 20 in/Hg ~25 seconds on average. Next I did multiple runs of pumping the brakes quickly to deplete the system. I consistently get five well assisted depressions of the pedal followed by two that were slightly stiffer and then after that it's much harder to press the pedal and the vacuum gauge shows depletion. Next I checked what happens after just depressing and releasing the pedal one time. Every time the pump would turn back on and take on average five seconds before shutting off. At first I was thinking this wasn't good and would prefer it to go two to three times before kicking back on but then realized a potential hazard with that. If I only have five good pedal depressions and releases and say three are used up what happens if I needed the brakes a few more times in a row in some emergency situation? I realized it turning on for a short while after each braking was really a good thing. Probably the only way to get away from this would be to have a HUGE reservoir where the pressure wasn't affected so much with each braking.</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJq9py4I/AAAAAAAAAIg/mBfenJtVkKY/s1600-h/IMG_1015_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153269644118914" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJq9py4I/AAAAAAAAAIg/mBfenJtVkKY/s400/IMG_1015_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Here is a shot showing the line running up to the original brake reservoir (it's the new shiny black hose.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bpLssj1I/AAAAAAAAAI4/RqgHYLfklo8/s1600-h/IMG_1016_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153811007311698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bpLssj1I/AAAAAAAAAI4/RqgHYLfklo8/s400/IMG_1016_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>I still have to run an ignition lead to a relay near the pump so that it only runs when the key is on and I'll be using the wiring which was already in the area for the old pump. I'll be holding off on this until I install the rest of the electronics.</div><div></div><div>As you can see the overall system is very easy to build and straight forward. I used a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Gast</span> vacuum pump from EV America ($225). The switch was ordered from EV Parts ($23.50). Everything else was obtained from the local hardware store including the metal to build the bracket.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
As I mentioned before I wasn't sure which route I was going to take on getting the plate and coupler made. For my setup it turns out I need six pieces machined total.<br /><br />The coupler which mates the motor output shaft to the original flywheel. The flywheel has the clutch attached to it which then slides over the input shaft to the transmission.<br /><br />The adapter plate is the second piece. It needs to be cut to match the outline of the transmission and have all guides and bolt holes drilled out. The center of this plate needs to be perfectly aligned with the motor and trany shafts to all fit together properly.<br /><br />Finally I need four spacers. These spacers sit between the motor and the adapter plate. If you think about the original setup the flywheel is positioned a certain distance away from the mating surface of the transmission. This distance must be matched very closely so that the everything fits properly and the clutch still works. In order to do this I need to add an additional two inches of spacing between the motor and adapter plate. Each spacer and the adapter plate are made from half inch 6061 aluminum.<br /><br />So I did some research and EV America has pre machined spacers and adapter plates. I called a local metal supplier to compare the cost of the raw metal vs their price and it's reasonable in my opinion for the time saved. Also if you were to go to Joe's machinging and have them create these with or without specs you'd probably pay more. If you can machine them yourself and need to save as much as possible then that's the clear path. I was quoted $350 for a 24"x48"x.5" 6061 sheet of aluminum. Add tax and you're closer to $375 or so. This assumes you don't make any mistakes maching and need to buy more. EV America has the adapter plates for $220 and the spacers for $90. I ended up paying $590 shipped.<br /><br />Basically the spacers are ready to bolt on. The adapter plate has the inside hole and bolt holes for the motor ready to go I just need to do the transmission outline and guide/bolt holes. The couplers they sell are for cluthless designs so won't work for me, I want my clutch since I drive in the hills and will need to down shift. I can buy the raw metal for the coupler for ~$25.<br /><br />My uncle has agreed to do the maching work for me. He doesn't have a lot of free time right now but since most of the parts needed are machined we should be able to finish the rest on a Sunday and be done with it. If we had to do it all I'd have to wait till after October for the help.<br /><br />I plan to add some photos of all of this once they are machined and will show the assembly of them to give you a better idea of how it all works.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I've added a list of EV related links on the right side of this blog. These are by far not all the sites out there but I find I use them the most for obtaining information, comparing prices and just passing time when I'm bored and planning things for the conversion.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I finally got some long awaited parts in this week. Below is the box the motor was shipped in. I'm going with an Advanced DC FB1-4001A. This is a dual shaft motor that can operate from 72 volts up to 144 volts. My goal is run it at 144 (room for batteries permitting).<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawv5qjPI/AAAAAAAAAHA/t8raOo-wNi0/s1600-h/IMG_1001_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549197938265330" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawv5qjPI/AAAAAAAAAHA/t8raOo-wNi0/s400/IMG_1001_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This thing was really well packed.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawxjQMRI/AAAAAAAAAHI/taKzH0XrLRs/s1600-h/IMG_1002_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549198381134098" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawxjQMRI/AAAAAAAAAHI/taKzH0XrLRs/s400/IMG_1002_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is picture of the motor with my hand as a reference for the size. Amazing how small it is and yet it weighs in at about 140 pounds.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxO_BMsI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/0DNO68RcVXM/s1600-h/IMG_1004_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549206282220226" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxO_BMsI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/0DNO68RcVXM/s400/IMG_1004_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the Albright contactor SW-200. It uses a 12v signal to trigger a massive contact point which will allow the 144 volts from the traction batteries to be sent to the motor controller. Two are used for added safety. One will be turned on with the ignition switch and the second will be turned on when the pot box switch is triggered (just as you begin to press the accelerator).<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxS6oBoI/AAAAAAAAAHg/i97rl5hCI20/s1600-h/IMG_1006_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549207337535106" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxS6oBoI/AAAAAAAAAHg/i97rl5hCI20/s400/IMG_1006_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Not sure why this blog image uploader decided that some of my images were better off sideways. Here is the vacuum pump that will be used for the power assisted brakes. An additional chamber to keep a vacuum reserve will be built but I'll cover all these details as they are built and implemented later.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbF_P8XxI/AAAAAAAAAHo/Ps6KeMkZJdA/s1600-h/IMG_1007_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549562835492626" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbF_P8XxI/AAAAAAAAAHo/Ps6KeMkZJdA/s400/IMG_1007_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the motor controller again picture with my hand for size reference. This guy weighs in at almost 20 lbs. I'm using a Curtis 1231C-8601. This can run between 96-144 volts and push a maximum of 500 amps. Do not confuse this with the other 1231C model which is only for up to 120v and 550 amps. The end of the model number is different but not always shown on some websites.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbFyGuMPI/AAAAAAAAAHw/ccaIaif8Xqo/s1600-h/IMG_1008_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549559307153650" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbFyGuMPI/AAAAAAAAAHw/ccaIaif8Xqo/s400/IMG_1008_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a sheet of metal that the controller will be mounted to and a fan that will greatly help to remove heat from the unit. This should help the unit for many hours of operation.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbGCs0ywI/AAAAAAAAAH4/C47aw-mOWnU/s1600-h/IMG_1009_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549563761937154" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbGCs0ywI/AAAAAAAAAH4/C47aw-mOWnU/s400/IMG_1009_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the Curtis PB-6 potbox. It will connect to the original accelerator cable and provide the motor control with the data for how fast I want to go. It's hard to see in the picture but on the left side of the picture are three little connectors. These are what I was referrering to earlier that will trigger one of my contactors that we need power.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxA9eoXI/AAAAAAAAAHY/Cd-FvwZhcwY/s1600-h/IMG_1005_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549202517664114" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxA9eoXI/AAAAAAAAAHY/Cd-FvwZhcwY/s400/IMG_1005_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now that we have the motor the next major task is to find a machinist who can work some magic and mate my new motor to the transmission.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
So after doing some research on why the EPS light would come on it's exactly like a check engine light. There are a set of codes that can be displayed to help diagnose problems with the system. The bad part is you can't use your standard cheap OBDII tool to read and clear these codes. The only scanners that will work for sure are from Honda and you can't buy them. There are some 3rd party scanners that cover most of the functionality and on average you can own one for 5k. Now I figured I was really in trouble here. After going over the electrical diagrams and service manual in general for many hours I found the loop hole I needed. It turns out Honda installed a backup way to do all of this in case your scanner software wasn't up-to-date! It turns out the EPS was complaining there was no vehicle speed signal and no engine rpms. I reset the codes and then made sure both spoofed signals were in place and the problem went away. It also turned out I was only getting a partial assist boost. Once I removed the dtc codes the boost is now very noticable.<br /><br />How to retrieve subsystem DTC codes:<br />1) Bring the SCS to ground. This is pin 1 (at least on this vehicle). Unless you have a scanner which can do this, simply take a wire and stick it into the pin 1 hole. Then attach the other end to a ground on the vehicle. I believe pins 12 and 13 are also ground and you might be able to use of them but I didn't test this.<br /><br />2) Turn the ignition ON. All subsystems will now begin displaying their DTC codes through their indicator light in the dash. Note that if a system doesn't have any codes the light will remain on or off. The light will flash for each number so count the flashes. It will also alternate between slow and fast flashes per digit. For example a code of 23 would be two slow flashes followed by three quick flashes.<br /><br />3) Look this code up in your service manual to determine the problem. Each subsystem also has a crazy way to reset it. The EPS involved turning the steering wheel full left to center a couple times with pauses in between.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS9USp9pQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/e6GzBnne1NQ/s1600-h/IMG_0990_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230013223586866434" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS9USp9pQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/e6GzBnne1NQ/s320/IMG_0990_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> I finally got the new handheld oscilloscope in to try and figure out what I was doing wrong in creating the RPM signal for my gauge and to enable the electronic power steering to work. The scope is a Velleman HPS10 and I picked it up new on ebay for $140 shipped. I didn't know what to expect never using a scope before but looking at the features I was pretty sure it would do what I needed. I'm really impressed with this scope for the money after using it. It showed me that my timer circuit I had built wasn't behaving as I thought it was :)<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS-jr34YqI/AAAAAAAAAFA/1pGrqEKAJYY/s1600-h/IMG_0993_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230014587565793954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS-jr34YqI/AAAAAAAAAFA/1pGrqEKAJYY/s320/IMG_0993_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div>So ultimately what I'm trying to create here is the signal the RPM gauge wants to see. However, this signal comes from the ECM which it creates based off the crankshaft position sensor and they are not the same pulse. After trying a few different things my circuit still wasn't pulsing what the gauge wanted to see so I decided to simplify things and reconnect the ECM to the engine and crank it over while watching the signal the ECM generates for the gauges on the scope. Instantly I realized my problem. Unlike all the other sensors so far this pulse is NOT 5 volts, it's 12 volts. I was never creating strong enough pulses to be measured.</div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS_1RyobWI/AAAAAAAAAFI/W3VIfO_jCrQ/s1600-h/IMG_0986_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230015989313727842" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS_1RyobWI/AAAAAAAAAFI/W3VIfO_jCrQ/s320/IMG_0986_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>After building another quick circuit and increasing the frequency a bit I was able to get the gauge to move as I wished. At the same time I heard a relay click and sure enough I had power steering! I tested it a few times trying to turn the wheel without the assist and then turing it on to make sure everything was in working order. I did notice the EPS light is remaining on even after the "engine is started". In other words the RPMs are not zero and I would think the light should turn off now. I'll have to look into that next.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SIz1PCzZa1I/AAAAAAAAAEw/oGbakgGRsS4/s1600-h/IMG_0973_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227822906269592402" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SIz1PCzZa1I/AAAAAAAAAEw/oGbakgGRsS4/s320/IMG_0973_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I finished bleeding the brakes today and wanted to share a few new things I learned this time around. I've always done brakes in the past as a two man job. One guy pushing in on the pedal while the other guy is releasing the pressure at the caliper. The wife was with the baby and my neightbor was on vacation so I decided to purchase a brake bleeding kit. These start at around $25 and go up depending on quality and are well worth it.</div><div> </div><div>First always make sure the reservoir is topped off before bleeding each wheel. You'll also want to check in the service manual for the order the wheels should be bled in. Yes there is a correct order. Before you bleed each wheel remove the bleed valve completely and wrap the threads with teflon tape. This will ensure that no extra air can enter the bleeding tool air lines making it hard to tell when the process is complete. Replace the valve and attach the bleeding kit to the end of valve. Pump the handle and build up the vacuum in the fluid catcher. If the vacuum doesn't want to build up or won't hold check your connections, find the leak and fix it before continuing. Once you have built up 15-20 in/hg you can crack open the bleeder valve and watch the system bleed itself. At first you should only hear the air moving through the system. You might at first see some dark/old fluid after which the air will come. Finally you should start to see the cleaner/new fluid coming into the tube. It doesn't take long and the bubbles will stop coming up the tub. Each wheel should only take 10 seconds or so. If it's taking longer you may still have a leak at the threads and need to redo the teflon tape or you haven't opened the valve very far making it take longer for the fluid to transfer. When the bubbles stop close the valve. Refill the resorvoir and repeat for the other wheels. Do these steps and you'll have your full system bleed in no time at all.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItOzsBQWlI/AAAAAAAAADM/koeECIiMcfE/s1600-h/IMG_0945_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358442390313554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItOzsBQWlI/AAAAAAAAADM/koeECIiMcfE/s320/IMG_0945_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div><div><div>Last weekend I started creating a new wiring harness. The original wiring harness had so many extra sensors that I didn't need and didn't want cluttering things up so I decided to take it apart and remove all the connections I wouldn't be using in the conversion. Look at all those wires!</div><div></div><div>I haven't finished the harness yet but will add some pictures of the final product.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO5JpwBxI/AAAAAAAAADU/F6EyTdr3ND8/s1600-h/IMG_0947_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358536244135698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO5JpwBxI/AAAAAAAAADU/F6EyTdr3ND8/s320/IMG_0947_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div><br /><p>I wanted to make sure that some of the existing sensors that I planned to reuse would still register properly. The of which would be the VSS or vehicle speed sensor. I decided to create circuit that would simulate the sensor output using a Basic Stamp microprocessor. These are very handy little guys for doing various tasks quickly using a simple basic language.</p><p></p><p></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358649304033522" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO_u1VKPI/AAAAAAAAADc/-kmlx67a9lw/s320/IMG_0946_small.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Here you can see the simulated sensor working. We are doing 40 Mph in my garage! Ugh, is that the odometer going up? Just as if you were really doing 40 Mph everything still functions and responds normally including the odometer. Don't leave that circuit running for too long :)</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItPc48Fa_I/AAAAAAAAADk/y_82sNqabDo/s1600-h/IMG_0953%5B1%5D.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227359150232923122" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItPc48Fa_I/AAAAAAAAADk/y_82sNqabDo/s320/IMG_0953%5B1%5D.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p>Ah yes and last but certainly not least is that small delay that I mentioned before. He was born July 22nd. Mom and baby are doing great!</p><p>In the next couple weeks I will be continuing the electronics conversion. The next major step is properly recreating the engine speed pulse. This signal is needed for the RPM gauge, electronic power steering, and cruise controls circuits to function properly. I've ordered a small handheld oscilloscope to make the remainder of any signalling circuits I need to build easier so this step is on hold until that comes in.</p>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I decided to weigh everything I had and figure out how much weight I've actually removed so far from this car. There are some weight reduction options remaining, but everything else would cost money so I won't consider them at this point.<br /><br />Removed items (lbs)<br />Catalytic converter: 13<br />Headers/Manifold: 20.5<br />Mufflers: 52.5<br />Radiator: 13<br />Gas tank: 25.5 + 79.2 (full tank 1.3 gallons * 6lbs / gallon)<br />Misc (hoses, brackets, emissions): 65.5<br /><br />I've also removed, at least for now the spare time, jack, and tools. These will go back in later but for the initial tests I wanted stripped down: 30<br /><br />The engine and components still attached is somewhat unknown. The specs say 325 but I'm pretty that is without the intake, starter, etc. I'm going to say 350.<br /><br />That makes for a grand total of just under 650 lbs removed. Not bad but you always want more on a project like this :) The car originally weighed 2800 minus the 650 puts as at 2150.<br /><br />Speaking of waiting I found out the motor is going to take longer to come in than I originally expected (up to 6 weeks). I'm going to start working on a few side projects that need to be done at some point anyway to pass the time.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphEGHomEI/AAAAAAAAACs/rCRlr2mFwHM/s1600-h/IMG_0936_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593440879515714" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphEGHomEI/AAAAAAAAACs/rCRlr2mFwHM/s320/IMG_0936_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I finally got some more time and cooler conditions to continue with the dismantling phase of the project. I went head to toe on the car and found every bracket, heat shield, and emissions components that were no longer needed. Then I started in on the big job which was the gas tank. My neighbor had mentioned that it should be plastic these days and not weigh much. I checked on my truck and sure enough it was plastic but after removing the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">EVAP</span> canister I was able to bang on the tank and it was metal...it's gotta go!</div><div></div><div>The entire rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">sub frame</span> must be removed for this job...ugh. Here you can see the car with the rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">sub frame</span> removed. You can barely see the black of the tank hanging just below the red frame.<br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphJRsyv9I/AAAAAAAAAC0/4YTzko3VU9g/s1600-h/IMG_0937_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593529887506386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphJRsyv9I/AAAAAAAAAC0/4YTzko3VU9g/s320/IMG_0937_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot of the rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">sub frame</span>. This includes the differential, suspension, etc. I tried lifting it...damn too bad I can't remove some weight from that thing. <div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphNz-XQmI/AAAAAAAAAC8/aD_nM8T7GtY/s1600-h/IMG_0938_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593607807484514" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphNz-XQmI/AAAAAAAAAC8/aD_nM8T7GtY/s320/IMG_0938_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My neighbor George who helped with the first dismantling steps came over and found my camera. Here is an "action" shot of the tank bolts being removed. Please notice the all-purpose 5 gallon bucket from Home-Depot. Today its purpose was to make up the difference between my floor jack and the gas tank which was pretty high off the ground.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphUqpLCbI/AAAAAAAAADE/JI-w2_c0rbo/s1600-h/IMG_0939_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593725561768370" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphUqpLCbI/AAAAAAAAADE/JI-w2_c0rbo/s320/IMG_0939_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>At last the final dead weight item as been removed! The rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">sub frame</span> is back together. I still need to bleed the brakes but don't have time today.</div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I started the processes of removing all of the unnecessary components this weekend. It was hard to start removing that first bolt but as the hours went on I quit focusing dismantling a 30k sports car and focused on the bigger picture, a clean, low maintenance, and low cost sports car!
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLW5mQdlMI/AAAAAAAAAAU/0MwaOJnXcew/s320/IMG_0918_small.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLW5mQdlMI/AAAAAAAAAAU/0MwaOJnXcew/s1600-h/IMG_0918_small.jpg)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLeW3nin3I/AAAAAAAAACk/VAutepO4uYo/s320/IMG_0923_small.jpg (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLeW3nin3I/AAAAAAAAACk/VAutepO4uYo/s1600-h/IMG_0923_small.jpg)
Here is a shot just after removing some of the intake system, alternator AC compressor, and cooling system.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLZ6TbCmRI/AAAAAAAAAA8/3nRjz25nf94/s320/IMG_0924_small.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLZ6TbCmRI/AAAAAAAAAA8/3nRjz25nf94/s1600-h/IMG_0924_small.jpg)
Don't forget to label those bolts and keep things organized. It takes awhile but can really save some time later!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLcOE5FJqI/AAAAAAAAAB0/HHXUdfI-45s/s320/IMG_0925_small.jpg (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLcOE5FJqI/AAAAAAAAAB0/HHXUdfI-45s/s1600-h/IMG_0925_small.jpg)
Here is one of the tubs I bought to just throw parts into so they aren't laying all over the place.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLc3NUf2WI/AAAAAAAAAB8/miKwP8ErD_0/s320/IMG_0926_small.jpg (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLc3NUf2WI/AAAAAAAAAB8/miKwP8ErD_0/s1600-h/IMG_0926_small.jpg)
After two days we had everything major out except the engine. It is amazing how much time is spent disconnecting wire harnesses and brackets that you don't have good access to! Here is a picture of the exhaust system.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdI3wpbjI/AAAAAAAAACE/_GhTZfAc8QE/s320/IMG_0927_small.jpg (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdI3wpbjI/AAAAAAAAACE/_GhTZfAc8QE/s1600-h/IMG_0927_small.jpg)
Here is the transmission. Although it was removed it will be reused in the conversion. We still need to create the adapter plate from the new electric motor and transmission. In addition a coupler between the motor shaft and flywheel must be created.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdUxw3VdI/AAAAAAAAACM/0Yt53n_hYjY/s320/IMG_0931_small.jpg (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdUxw3VdI/AAAAAAAAACM/0Yt53n_hYjY/s1600-h/IMG_0931_small.jpg)
Day3 After some more removing of sensors and hoses and other crap it was finally time to hook the engine up to the hoist! This was not easy compared to many other vehicles the front sub frame needed to be dropped 3 inches to make room to get the bell housing bolts out.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdsJvxx1I/AAAAAAAAACU/vXNLASEXtnw/s320/IMG_0932_small.jpg (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdsJvxx1I/AAAAAAAAACU/vXNLASEXtnw/s1600-h/IMG_0932_small.jpg)
It's almost out, just a little further!!!
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLd8wRvL-I/AAAAAAAAACc/vMilLUzwCK0/s320/IMG_0933_small.jpg (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLd8wRvL-I/AAAAAAAAACc/vMilLUzwCK0/s1600-h/IMG_0933_small.jpg)
Success! Look at all that room in there. The new electric motor is only 9.1" diameter and 15" long leaving a lot of room for batteries up front.
There are a few little pieces here and there to remove but the biggest is the gas tank which remains in the car. Just like the engine the rear sub frame needs to be dropped to get it out. Hopefully I can get to that and more next weekend.
More Information on this item... (http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2008/07/dismantling.html)
Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread (http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878)
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I was going to post all of the battery rack and battery installation in one post but there is a lot involved and it's taking longer than I thought so figured I'd break it up some.<br /><br />After reading through the Thundersky documentation I found on their website it said if you want to remove a cell from a group to discharge all the cells of the group first. Turns out these cells will expand and become ruined if they are used. It was hard to read the directly translated documents but it also sounded like you were fine if you recompressed the cells before use.<br /><br />SinceI knew I needed groups of cells other than the five they came in I didn't hookup and start charging the cells immediately as I've noticed others doing because I didn't have a good way to discharge them again in a timely fashion.<br /><br />I built a quick and simple cell compressor more for storing the od cells while I was waiting to build a new group. So for example I needed a group of seven which left three cells sitting around. I didn't know exactly how many cells I would need in each group and designed as I went (I'm bad at planning really far ahead).<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkzAE32pI/AAAAAAAAAjc/ANEC8C1qxqY/s1600-h/IMG_1531.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680995283622546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkzAE32pI/AAAAAAAAAjc/ANEC8C1qxqY/s400/IMG_1531.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a new group of the seven cells. I got some huge zip ties and a tool to tension them. I noticed this actually is providing better tension than the stock setup. The stock setup is loose enough that the cells can still shift a little which allows them to get out of alignment. This method keeps the cells very snug. Below is also the first base frame for the group.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbpt-ndI/AAAAAAAAAjM/dwakIILHCbY/s1600-h/IMG_1532.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680594145025490" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbpt-ndI/AAAAAAAAAjM/dwakIILHCbY/s400/IMG_1532.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div>Another shot of the frame as I progressed. The batteries will sit on top of the motor mount and be allowed to move slightly with it.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbSEdAwI/AAAAAAAAAjE/-1Os2P-qN-8/s1600-h/IMG_1533.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680587796841218" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbSEdAwI/AAAAAAAAAjE/-1Os2P-qN-8/s400/IMG_1533.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div> </div><div>The rack placed on top of the motor mount frame.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkt6oHCjI/AAAAAAAAAjU/N43XUOxwhf0/s1600-h/IMG_1534.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680907921459762" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkt6oHCjI/AAAAAAAAAjU/N43XUOxwhf0/s400/IMG_1534.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a near completed battery rack holding three groups of seven cells above the motor. All three racks, especially the center are angled forward to account for the slope of the hood. There are very tight clearances all around between the sides and hood.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbXPyXgI/AAAAAAAAAi0/heIn5vS1s-8/s1600-h/IMG_1535.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680589186555394" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbXPyXgI/AAAAAAAAAi0/heIn5vS1s-8/s400/IMG_1535.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Just another shot from the front.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbL92Z9I/AAAAAAAAAis/ST8eCjbdNhw/s1600-h/IMG_1536.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680586158532562" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkbL92Z9I/AAAAAAAAAis/ST8eCjbdNhw/s400/IMG_1536.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /></div><div>Here is the rack all painted. You'll notice I added some feet on the sides near the back. These, including the length of the rubber feet rivoted on, are 1/4" inches longer than the rest of the feet. This allows for all this weight to be evenly displaced downward on the engine mounts instead of only towards the center.</div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj8EWvK8I/AAAAAAAAAic/LxaS-kh3RFQ/s1600-h/IMG_1551.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680051539487682" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj8EWvK8I/AAAAAAAAAic/LxaS-kh3RFQ/s400/IMG_1551.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div> </div><div>I can't remember the names of these things but they are basically a really long nut. They may be called couplers which is what they do. They are used throughout the racks with the threaded shafts to provide adjustable points for securing the cells as you'll see later.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkL7HcIiI/AAAAAAAAAik/Vw3a6ZcV1pA/s1600-h/IMG_1552.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680323937313314" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUkL7HcIiI/AAAAAAAAAik/Vw3a6ZcV1pA/s400/IMG_1552.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the rack bolted in place on the motor mount frame. Again notice those feet I mentioned earlier on the outsides of the motor mounts applying most of the weight to the outside and avoiding sag and strain.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj792D1qI/AAAAAAAAAiM/w90hIyabaKA/s1600-h/IMG_1553.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680049791817378" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj792D1qI/AAAAAAAAAiM/w90hIyabaKA/s400/IMG_1553.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here are the 21 cells in place for a test fit. All looks good.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7i4fpsI/AAAAAAAAAiE/04fNo_pjgfQ/s1600-h/IMG_1561.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680042554271426" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7i4fpsI/AAAAAAAAAiE/04fNo_pjgfQ/s400/IMG_1561.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>A final shot with the support bars securing the cells.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE3OEmPI/AAAAAAAAAhk/NyEgi2ppw9U/s1600-h/IMG_1565.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676904097421554" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE3OEmPI/AAAAAAAAAhk/NyEgi2ppw9U/s400/IMG_1565.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Now there is some room up front where the radiator use to be. Technically this isn't the best place for batteries. In case of an accident they are not as well protected and can be ruined during a front in collision. Of course so can the batteries over the motor if the crash is bad enough. Either way I don't have the room to pick and choose the locations so they are going in here.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7rDJhDI/AAAAAAAAAh8/DxfVoGktPgY/s1600-h/IMG_1562.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297680044746441778" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUj7rDJhDI/AAAAAAAAAh8/DxfVoGktPgY/s400/IMG_1562.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />After doing some measuring I determined I can squeeze nine cells in here. I changed my mind a couple times but then finally decided on the best way to secure the frame as well see in a second.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhFMbln4I/AAAAAAAAAh0/N0Lsqz702Qw/s1600-h/IMG_1563.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676909791256450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhFMbln4I/AAAAAAAAAh0/N0Lsqz702Qw/s400/IMG_1563.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />This rack needed to built in two pieces and bolted together to allow it to fit into the confined space and get to the mounted points.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE4STZiI/AAAAAAAAAhs/W_fRMqtiRLQ/s1600-h/IMG_1564.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676904383604258" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhE4STZiI/AAAAAAAAAhs/W_fRMqtiRLQ/s400/IMG_1564.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>Here is the front cross member which convienently had two bolt holes where the original engine stop was. This was the rubber bumper used to stop the engine from dropping too far down when you discount the tranny. I'll be using it as one of the main mounting points.</div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEiheKqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/IOk4HUZT804/s1600-h/IMG_1566.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676898541644450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEiheKqI/AAAAAAAAAhc/IOk4HUZT804/s400/IMG_1566.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Here is a shot of the frame in place. I had to also drill holes in the side frame (unfortunately no other available holes).</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEh05bJI/AAAAAAAAAhU/aKvZhv021ho/s1600-h/IMG_1567.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676898354687122" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUhEh05bJI/AAAAAAAAAhU/aKvZhv021ho/s400/IMG_1567.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />Here are those side holes that were drilled. You can see these beems with the front bumper removed.</div><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgNDpgBbI/AAAAAAAAAgk/mySi1rFDffk/s1600-h/IMG_1568.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675945361016242" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgNDpgBbI/AAAAAAAAAgk/mySi1rFDffk/s400/IMG_1568.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />The finished assembly.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM8AIMaI/AAAAAAAAAgc/JZv9rZHo8U4/s1600-h/IMG_1569.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675943308439970" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM8AIMaI/AAAAAAAAAgc/JZv9rZHo8U4/s400/IMG_1569.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />I installed the finished assembly. Things were so tight I couldn't help but scrapping a little of the paint. I hate that!</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM57cyuI/AAAAAAAAAgU/I3pk9NlQzKg/s1600-h/IMG_1570.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942751947490" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM57cyuI/AAAAAAAAAgU/I3pk9NlQzKg/s400/IMG_1570.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I wanted to add this picture since I forgot to mention it earlier. The white plastic sheet seen here was also used on the first three groups of cells to protect from anything that may come up from the road. The plastic is what is called wonder wall. It was thin, very hard and yet could bend without breaking. It was very lightweight and cheap so seemed worth trying out. When I get things rolling I plan to come back and build a lightweight shell around the batteries with this material. We'll see how that works out later.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM5AxqlI/AAAAAAAAAgM/iaxPFsOQlek/s1600-h/IMG_1571.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942505851474" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM5AxqlI/AAAAAAAAAgM/iaxPFsOQlek/s400/IMG_1571.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />One final shot with the 30 cells in the front of the car. This leaves another 15 to fit into the trunk.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM6RuHrI/AAAAAAAAAgE/tTSWZEIDGu8/s1600-h/IMG_1572.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297675942845357746" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SYUgM6RuHrI/AAAAAAAAAgE/tTSWZEIDGu8/s400/IMG_1572.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/01/front-battery-racks.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
While I was waiting for my batteries I also finished up the first computer revision. I plan on making a more advanced version but figured I'd do a basic setup which will give just what I need to get things rolling and then later, with the car mobile, I can test and prototype to see exactly what I want.<br /><br />I figured the basics I needed were to monitor the RPM signal from the motor and relay this to the tach gauge and EPS system. I also wanted to make sure I could watch the temperature of the motor and controller. I can also added an output port so I could optionally install a small LCD screen to show this information although I haven't used it yet (just using a connected laptop currently). This version uses a BASIC Stamp microprocessor. I'm using an ADC0831 to convert the signals from the LM34 temperature sensors to a digital output. This sensors will output 10 millivolt per 1 degree F. The only other IC on the board is a 5v voltage regulator.<br /><br />Below is a picture of the basic circuit board after it was etched. I've done chemical etching myself but for something critical like this I wanted it done professionally. I used <a href="http://www.expresspcb.com/">ExpressPCB</a> for the job. They offer free software to download which is very easy to use. It's not very advanced compared to other PCB software but will do basic jobs like this. After you design your board you can click an option to compute the cost of the board. There are a few options. You can get everything from prototyping to full production work. Below is the prototyping board. I think it cost $50 or so and you get three boards in case you mess up something while soldering. The prototyping version requires the exact board size shown below. I think it was 2.5" x 3.2" or close to that. It goes up in price considerably for full silkscreening and solder masks for surface mounting. After I placed the order, completely through the software, I received the boards in the mail within 3 days.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_8tIzbI/AAAAAAAAAbI/r5aFx9wSXPA/s1600-h/IMG_1402_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228149020872114" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_8tIzbI/AAAAAAAAAbI/r5aFx9wSXPA/s400/IMG_1402_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I guess I didn't need the flash here. This is just a loose fitting of the components. Yep it all fits.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_u54-bI/AAAAAAAAAbA/AfLlS6rKgN0/s1600-h/IMG_1403_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228145316264370" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm_u54-bI/AAAAAAAAAbA/AfLlS6rKgN0/s400/IMG_1403_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the board with all the components and IC sockets soldered in.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm39jy-PI/AAAAAAAAAa4/lP4K65_rph0/s1600-h/IMG_1439_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228011811174642" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm39jy-PI/AAAAAAAAAa4/lP4K65_rph0/s400/IMG_1439_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Added the BASIC stamp chip and ADC IC.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm3sMn-DI/AAAAAAAAAaw/pQ9u_uXnoVI/s1600-h/IMG_1440_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285228007150581810" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm3sMn-DI/AAAAAAAAAaw/pQ9u_uXnoVI/s400/IMG_1440_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a project box I picked up at radio shack. Turns out it's just a little too deep to fit where my original ECM was and I need to replace it later. For now the access panel is still off and I'm going to live with that way under the car is rolling and I have time to go back and clean things up.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm29WIzNI/AAAAAAAAAag/sundfLrKp0c/s1600-h/IMG_1442_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285227994574015698" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm29WIzNI/AAAAAAAAAag/sundfLrKp0c/s400/IMG_1442_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the finished box. You can see the serial port I added so I can update the software and tweak anything later. There is an external LED to show power and an external fuse for protection.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm2dEVUkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/FEM0zw45TuY/s1600-h/IMG_1443_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285227985909404226" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVjm2dEVUkI/AAAAAAAAAaY/FEM0zw45TuY/s400/IMG_1443_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The computer is in the car and working as expected. That's it for the computer until revision 2.
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2008/12/computer-revision-1.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I've heard about a movie called, "Who killed the electric car?", but never watched it till recently. This is extremely eye opening. I had no idea we could have had MANY EV vehicles on the street already. I just figured there were always good technological reasons for the cars never making full production runs. This movie really gets into the details of how auto makers, oil companies and I'm sure some money under the table with political figures have been working towards killing the electric car. You'll be amazed at what GM has done!<br /><br />It can be found <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_FDmmJm9vSA">here</a> on YouTube. It's broken up into ten parts so make sure to watch them in the correct order it could be rather confusing. You can also purchase this video off the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Internet</span>.<br /><br />Watch it, you'll be amazed.
<a href="http://s2kev.blogspot.com/2009/01/who-killed-electric-car.html" target="_blank">More Information on this item...</a>
<a href="http://www.s2katlanta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17878">Link to the Electric S2000 Discussion Thread</a>
LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After a very long wait (6-7 weeks) the order of lithium batteries, charger and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">BMS</span> have finally arrived! I actually ended up picking up the shipment from the freight distribution point closest to me instead of waiting another couple days to schedule the delivery with them.<br /><br />As I've mentioned before I ordered everything through Elite Power Solutions. You really don't know what to expect when dealing with people online and especially for this kind of money but everything went smoothly and they are legit.<br /><br />Below is a picture of the crated delivery. Five boxes total. Three boxes contain 15 cells each, one for the charger and another for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">BMS</span> system.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31JqR66I/AAAAAAAAAdE/jI0hr3qCJ2w/s1600-h/IMG_1512_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072423402892194" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31JqR66I/AAAAAAAAAdE/jI0hr3qCJ2w/s400/IMG_1512_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here you can the first box opened. I didn't know what I was going to get really other than lithium cells. They came <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">pre</span>-bound with nice aluminum end plates and handles to carry them. It's very important these cells stay bound while there is any charge on them. So for example if you need to exchange a single cell for some reason the entire block that is bound together must be drained completely first. I didn't know this until reading the <a href="http://www.thunder-sky.com/pdf/2007030222.pdf">instruction manual</a>. I didn't get this with the order but found the info on the Thunder-Sky website.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31OWfyVI/AAAAAAAAAdM/mVwEgy4baec/s1600-h/IMG_1513_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072424662092114" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31OWfyVI/AAAAAAAAAdM/mVwEgy4baec/s400/IMG_1513_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is just a picture of everything received in the order. You can see charger isn't small.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31ZCps4I/AAAAAAAAAdU/m7lYED8gIwM/s1600-h/IMG_1514_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072427531645826" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE31ZCps4I/AAAAAAAAAdU/m7lYED8gIwM/s400/IMG_1514_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I measured and added the post dimensions for these cells. Again these are the 160Ah cells so I doubt they are the same for other cell sizes but I'm not sure. This info will be helpful if you are making a per cell battery balancing system. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">BMS</span> only monitors the and reports information about the cells. The only active <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">BMS</span> piece to it is shutting down the charger when the highest cell reaches a set voltage. I will be charging to 3.8v max. This means the cells can become out of balance which will reduce the overall power you can get from the pack safely.<br /><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZUUH62I/AAAAAAAAAc0/eeCHkOXte6U/s1600-h/IMG_1521_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071945226414946" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZUUH62I/AAAAAAAAAc0/eeCHkOXte6U/s400/IMG_1521_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the best shot I could get showing a side and front angle of the aluminum end caps that came with the cells. You may need to, as I do, use longer or shorter groups of cells than five. I need to find some similar straps that are longer but will reuse the end caps.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZCaenUI/AAAAAAAAAcs/4-ONVSEnNuI/s1600-h/IMG_1519_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071940421229890" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZCaenUI/AAAAAAAAAcs/4-ONVSEnNuI/s400/IMG_1519_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a box of all the connector bars, bolts and locking washing to put your cells in series. These also came with the cells. The wires you see there are actually part of the charger. There are two connectors which you must wire into the outlet style you want (one for 120v and one for 240v). I was expecting only 240V so this is nice I will now add two <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">separate</span> plug types on the car so I can recharge anywhere (120V plugs are much more common here). Using 120V will double the time it takes to charge, but it's better than not charging.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3ZNWv3bI/AAAAAAAAAck/hSCpdkGgpaE/s1600-h/IMG_1518_small.jpg"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3r8F4TRI/AAAAAAAAAc8/f2hO6uItYwo/s1600-h/IMG_1515_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072265141734674" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3r8F4TRI/AAAAAAAAAc8/f2hO6uItYwo/s400/IMG_1515_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the charger. Elite has a variety of options here. I picked the 200V max, 24 amp max charger. You can dial in the voltage and amps you'd like to charge at. This makes this charger very versatile for different pack configurations and charge stations. So if perhaps you are sharing an outlet with some other amp sucking EV you can dial down the amp draw and avoid a tripped breaker. The back, which I forget to show, has a DB9 connector for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">BMS</span> interface and the two power connectors.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3YwHq5RI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Cd1YT0PjL1U/s1600-h/IMG_1517_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292071935510504722" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE3YwHq5RI/AAAAAAAAAcc/Cd1YT0PjL1U/s400/IMG_1517_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div>Here is the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">BMS</span>. Damn there are a lot of wires and connectors in this box. I'll go into more detail on the pieces here and the others as I install them to show which connections go where. I'm also currently waiting on the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">English</span> instruction version for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">BMS</span>. I don't read Chinese sadly.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE4QyL2oaI/AAAAAAAAAdc/g7YhvGCcafU/s1600-h/IMG_1518_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5292072898137596322" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SXE4QyL2oaI/AAAAAAAAAdc/g7YhvGCcafU/s400/IMG_1518_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>That's it for now until I get time to start building the battery racks and get this all installed. Hopefully soon!</div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Money has been tight after ordering the batteries and the holidays so progress has been rather slow lately. This is technically the second heater but I will only fully document the final design.<br /><br />I first built a water heater utilizing the existing heater core. It used a 1500 watt engine block heater and pump to circulate the water. I decided not to use this setup for a few reasons. First and least important was the noise I could hear from the pump circulating the water. A few people recommended a pump that was very quiet but after further thought I didn't try it out. The second reason was the amount of heat I noticed on the outside of the heater unit itself. I figured if all that heat was on the outside it was wasted energy especially while driving if air was passing over the heater. The hoses also get very hot on the outside which again means energy lose. Last I figured this gave me a fluid that could leak, and therefore something that needed to be checked from time to time.<br /><br />So, as many others have done, I went for the ceramic heater setup which replaces the water heater core with an electric version. Mine, however, well be quite different from the typical basic ceramic install as you'll see later.<br /><br />The first part in building a ceramic heater is removing the heater core and this is not an easy task, especially with newer vehicles. As I've mentioned before, get the service manual for your vehicle as it will really save you time during your build.<br /><br />I won't go into boring details of the dash removal but figured I'd still post a few pictures to give you an idea.<br /><br />Here is a pile of plastic trim, air bags, steering column, etc which is well over a foot tall. There are a few things in the picture to give some perspective. Of course also not shown is the full dash itself.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjeo-deI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/NiKzWNyEhvM/s1600-h/IMG_1394_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071529262872034" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjeo-deI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/NiKzWNyEhvM/s400/IMG_1394_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture after removing the dash. I thought I was home free at this point. I was wrong. From the middle to the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">passenger</span> side you can see the heater box, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">blower</span> assembly and condenser unit. The blower and condenser needed to also be removed to get to the heater box. This really wasn't that much more work but meant the refrigerant needed to be evacuated. I was hoping to avoid that.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjTdZfoI/AAAAAAAAAaI/EaHn37PpDMU/s1600-h/IMG_1395_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071526261522050" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYjTdZfoI/AAAAAAAAAaI/EaHn37PpDMU/s400/IMG_1395_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>A slightly closer picture with the heater box finally out! Look at all those wires! Most of them are attached to the dash so this is really nothing.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYl7aUTI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/4DKwCxHQ8_k/s1600-h/IMG_1396_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071342240682290" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYl7aUTI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/4DKwCxHQ8_k/s400/IMG_1396_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />At last the heater core itself is removed.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYiCR_rI/AAAAAAAAAZw/gnJrvQX3VXA/s1600-h/IMG_1397_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071341195755186" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYiCR_rI/AAAAAAAAAZw/gnJrvQX3VXA/s400/IMG_1397_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the heater core itself. It's a lot skinnier than I thought it would be.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYUt9zeI/AAAAAAAAAZo/zybu2Cgcsrc/s1600-h/IMG_1467_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071337620884962" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYUt9zeI/AAAAAAAAAZo/zybu2Cgcsrc/s400/IMG_1467_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">OK</span> on to building the new heater core. I purchased this ceramic heater from <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Kmart</span> for $30. It was the cheapest ceramic heater they had. First I purchased a $20 heater which was not ceramic and just used five coils of wire. I doubt these would hold up well with the vibrations of a car. It was so cold in the garage I just kept it for a shop heater :)</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Here I am testing the temperature coming out of the heater. 231 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Fahrenheit</span>, hopefully that will do the trick on the cold mornings. It rarely gets below 40 where I live so this should do just fine.</div><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYXZJQ-I/AAAAAAAAAZg/qq2A_C2KE8I/s1600-h/IMG_1398_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071338338862050" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYYXZJQ-I/AAAAAAAAAZg/qq2A_C2KE8I/s400/IMG_1398_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now for a test to see how much power this heater really draws. It bounced around quite a bit while running but it's drawing right around 1500 watts as advertised.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHWKyjkI/AAAAAAAAAZY/WLjTNptECAQ/s1600-h/IMG_1399_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071045952441922" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHWKyjkI/AAAAAAAAAZY/WLjTNptECAQ/s400/IMG_1399_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the ceramic heater element itself.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHYSmEiI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/nqW7gyweVZc/s1600-h/IMG_1401_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071046522049058" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYHYSmEiI/AAAAAAAAAZQ/nqW7gyweVZc/s400/IMG_1401_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the first place my heater will be different than most others. Instead of destroying my original heater core which I hope to sell to get some cash back I'll build my own. I'm using aluminum 1/8" thick for all the pieces. The main frame is 1" square tubing.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Below I've cut out a recess for the heater to set in with my plasma cutter. It was cut slightly higher and angled in to allow clearance for the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">outer</span> terminals.</div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG0bhubI/AAAAAAAAAZI/zjZJANR22CY/s1600-h/IMG_1457_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071036895836594" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG0bhubI/AAAAAAAAAZI/zjZJANR22CY/s400/IMG_1457_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I messed around to see if I could weld this assembly but aluminum is a huge pain to weld with a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">MIG</span> welder. To be honest I was suppose to use 100% argon gas but was only trying it with my 75% argon 25% CO2 mix so it failed horribly. I couldn't afford to get another <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">cylinder</span> for the argon gas so fell back on self tapping screws to hold it together.</div><br /><div><br />Here you can see on the left a piece of flat laid across the side and end pieces using the self tapping screws to hold it together.</div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG3zRtqI/AAAAAAAAAZA/Rh8PFmymfUg/s1600-h/IMG_1458_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071037800756898" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG3zRtqI/AAAAAAAAAZA/Rh8PFmymfUg/s400/IMG_1458_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is one side assembled. The screws go into the side pieces and the end pieces.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG-ab4kI/AAAAAAAAAY4/PiuPkJUepos/s1600-h/IMG_1459_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285071039575614018" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhYG-ab4kI/AAAAAAAAAY4/PiuPkJUepos/s400/IMG_1459_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I drilled a 1/2" hole on the top for the wires and put a couple of grommets in there to protect the wires from the rough metal holes.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX74CBEuI/AAAAAAAAAYw/9lZwaRWFmEg/s1600-h/IMG_1460_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070848884019938" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX74CBEuI/AAAAAAAAAYw/9lZwaRWFmEg/s400/IMG_1460_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now I need to make some plates to fill in the gaps where the ceramic heater doesn't cover. I used a piece of metal clamped down to the plating I was cutting to act as a guide for my plasma cutter.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX72NJviI/AAAAAAAAAYo/rCrTKrKYbGE/s1600-h/IMG_1461_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070848393854498" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX72NJviI/AAAAAAAAAYo/rCrTKrKYbGE/s400/IMG_1461_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the bottom plate installed.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX793ShJI/AAAAAAAAAYg/JzOMqJ9CRIk/s1600-h/IMG_1462_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070850449638546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX793ShJI/AAAAAAAAAYg/JzOMqJ9CRIk/s400/IMG_1462_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It's hard to see here but I've cut some slits into the side pieces to allow me to bend them in. This will give a solid piece on the sides a good distance away from the ceramic heater element to allow about a 1/4" of silicone.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX7QAp2NI/AAAAAAAAAYY/hesyV4QyUxo/s1600-h/IMG_1463_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070838140885202" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhX7QAp2NI/AAAAAAAAAYY/hesyV4QyUxo/s400/IMG_1463_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I originally cut out small pieces of plastic (from a coolant <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">reservoir</span> I used on the water heater setup) to keep the ceramic heater from touching any metal. This is very important not to short out the heater element to the frame. However, the plastic couldn't withstand the high temperatures if the airflow was too low so I removed these and replaced the gap with more silicone.<br /><div><br /><div><br />I used a high temp (650 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Fahrenheit</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">silicone</span> gasket sealant putting about 1/4" on both sides and bottom. I then cut and installed the top plate. Both of these plates will force all the air to pass through the heater element and not be able to bypass it.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXty5mQAI/AAAAAAAAAYA/8c7cnsTF3Sc/s1600-h/IMG_1466_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070606988361730" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXty5mQAI/AAAAAAAAAYA/8c7cnsTF3Sc/s400/IMG_1466_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a side-by-side of the water and electric heater cores.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt2J6CqI/AAAAAAAAAX4/r_IdmM9ez7g/s1600-h/IMG_1468_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070607862074018" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt2J6CqI/AAAAAAAAAX4/r_IdmM9ez7g/s400/IMG_1468_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next I added a foam stripping to all sides and the top. This not only keeps the element from being able to move a little inside the heater box but adds a little more sealing to keep air moving through the element and not around it.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt3SYEJI/AAAAAAAAAXw/BNy9LHqn0ys/s1600-h/IMG_1469_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070608166031506" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXt3SYEJI/AAAAAAAAAXw/BNy9LHqn0ys/s400/IMG_1469_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the completed heater being installed back into the heater box. Now that the new core was complete I also did a quick continuity check with my multimeter to make sure that none of the elements were grounded to the frame.<br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXti9wbuI/AAAAAAAAAXo/063I6DrdgGA/s1600-h/IMG_1470_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5285070602710839010" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SVhXti9wbuI/AAAAAAAAAXo/063I6DrdgGA/s400/IMG_1470_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here is a shot in the housing with a wiring harness built for it. There are five seperate 12 gauge wires inside the harness coming from each section of the element.</div><div></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SWQOkO2IlRI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/NdNTXcIkPyc/s1600-h/IMG_1486_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5288367878063035666" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SWQOkO2IlRI/AAAAAAAAAbQ/NdNTXcIkPyc/s400/IMG_1486_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>Later I will show the electronics and wiring side of the heater. The five wires actually allows for more than the two heater settings (low/high) that they give you and I will be taking advantage of this to allow for more levels of heating. This will not be done, however, through any switches. I will use the existing hot/cold knob and build a circuit to detect changes to this and convert that into a desired temperature setting. Then depending on the temperature differential I will determine how much heat to output. This should end up a lot better than a simple on/off switch on the dash and will use less power when only a little heat is needed without completing shutting down which would then be shooting cooler air out the vents.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>I reinstalled the dash and did a quick AC test with the heater. My garage was around 47 F and so was the inside of the car when I started. I was able to get the car up to 80 F. I also measured the vent temperature and I was getting 115 F. I compared this to my truck after it heated up which was putting out 140 F. I'm not sure what my original temp would have been in the car but figured this was at least some reference point. In addition I'll be running the heater on 144v DC so it will actually get hotter than the AC test.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After months of debating which batteries to buy the deed is done and there is no going back. I originally started this build with the idea of using the typical LA(Lead Acid) battery as the power source. After doing the math and seeing what other EVs range seemed to be it didn't seem LA could really get the range I was looking for, at least not without making my car weigh in a 4,000 lbs. I ordered 45 of the <a href="http://www.thunder-sky.com/products_en.asp">ThunderSky </a>LFP-160Ah modules at $264 a pop, not cheap. On top of that the charger and BMS system added another $3,000. The full setup was ordered from <a href="http://www.elitepowersolutions.com/">Elite Power Solutions</a>.<br /><br />The amount of money up front for this setup is scary but after doing the math the investment should be well worth it in the long run. First off I can get about four times the capacity out of them as LA pound for pound. The setup I ordered will add 550 lbs. of lithium to the car which should keep the overall weight of the build at or maybe slightly below the original weight. This compared to most EV conversions needing the suspension beefed up to support the extra weight. Lighter will also mean faster acceleration than with the LA and also less power required to accelerate.<br /><br />A standard LA battery last around 200 charges. Some of the higher end cells can go as much as 400 cycles. Cycle life of the lithium cells start at 1000 and go as high as 3000 cycles for 70% DOD. If I used flooded LA and got 200 cycles out of them I would still break even if I only got 800 cycles out of the lithium cells so I shouldn't have any trouble getting my moneys worth if the cells hold up....we'll see.<br /><br />Hurry up and wait. So now that I finally committed to this purchase I get to wait for 5 to 9 weeks for them to arrive. UGH. I'll take this time to work on the electric systems of the car and hopefully have things ready to go when the cells arrive.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
It's just too cool to see the car moving that words can't describe. I got my neighbor to video as I backed it out of my driveway up the street a bit and then back in. I edited the video to shorten it up since at 12volts it wasn't moving very fast if there was much of an incline.<br /><br /><br /><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOG_video_class" id="BLOG_video-d3a38460f1ce5687" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="movie" value="http://www.blogger.com/img/videoplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.goo gle.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl% 3DqAAAABjzXX0P2a8vxnDt-OvRPGDG6vIsVOB9H0vngreSSTmwL_zupj_1WR7SgBzd2voLoAC S5RCGKdyJtoJaVx8qtinyzuS49NQEwoUJNQiEKldCY3llF3gZr UczmEH9et7g5XmA3RG6qEeRo4-8sXXh3MsY5_oXWj-yoYYSEFtjSXj_evJ9wa6HVapFZgMFNyo4ZXe4Z4FlvdqQBOx88 f5YuvGPTFEfNhS3rJ9KliSgCBVI%26sigh%3D_WcGLq7o-l4nJeRJ8wScmgNlAJs%26begin%3D0%26len%3D86400000%26 docid%3D0&nogvlm=1&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumb nailServer2%3Fapp%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dd3a38460 f1ce5687%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw320%26sigh%3D xB3swyI8w_xr-NwuqM61ddf0v7c&messagesUrl=video.google.com%2FFlashUiStrings.xlb% 3Fframe%3Dflashstrings%26hl%3Den"><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF"><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://www.blogger.com/img/videoplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.goo gle.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl% 3DqAAAABjzXX0P2a8vxnDt-OvRPGDG6vIsVOB9H0vngreSSTmwL_zupj_1WR7SgBzd2voLoAC S5RCGKdyJtoJaVx8qtinyzuS49NQEwoUJNQiEKldCY3llF3gZr UczmEH9et7g5XmA3RG6qEeRo4-8sXXh3MsY5_oXWj-yoYYSEFtjSXj_evJ9wa6HVapFZgMFNyo4ZXe4Z4FlvdqQBOx88 f5YuvGPTFEfNhS3rJ9KliSgCBVI%26sigh%3D_WcGLq7o-l4nJeRJ8wScmgNlAJs%26begin%3D0%26len%3D86400000%26 docid%3D0&nogvlm=1&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumb nailServer2%3Fapp%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Dd3a38460 f1ce5687%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw320%26sigh%3D xB3swyI8w_xr-NwuqM61ddf0v7c&messagesUrl=video.google.com%2FFlashUiStrings.xlb% 3Fframe%3Dflashstrings%26hl%3Den" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"></embed></object>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After taking a nice vacation to Oregon for some quad riding in the dunes and getting over a nasty cold I was finally able to get back to the project. First I needed to hoist the motor and transmission down into the car so I could start measuring things and figuring out how to build the motor mount. I knew this would be a two man job even with the hoist so I grabbed my neighbor again for some help. The top center bolt of the adapter plate to transmission turned out to be perfectly balanced for the setup.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApJyHosI/AAAAAAAAASo/OyMaCPnDUnI/s1600-h/IMG_1169_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890102466388674" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApJyHosI/AAAAAAAAASo/OyMaCPnDUnI/s400/IMG_1169_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is another closer shot to show what we have to work with. You can see the original two motor mounts that we need to eventually tie into. Still plenty of room in here for other things later such as batteries.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApGzGlhI/AAAAAAAAASg/ziVyax2pxSg/s1600-h/IMG_1168_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890101665207826" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfApGzGlhI/AAAAAAAAASg/ziVyax2pxSg/s400/IMG_1168_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a top down view just to show another angle. My neighbor had a good idea of using this strap to support the motor weight so the car could easily be moved around if needed.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAo1g2IlI/AAAAAAAAASY/FL_el1hx1pU/s1600-h/IMG_1226_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266890097025229394" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAo1g2IlI/AAAAAAAAASY/FL_el1hx1pU/s400/IMG_1226_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />A quick note about the rotation of the motor. It turns out that all Honda engines do not rotate counter clockwise like I read. At least the S2000 rotates clockwise. This effects where the front motor mount holes need to be so make sure your motor is setup correctly before making your motor mount.<br /><br />Let the work begin. Here I am making my first cut of the project.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAdHU4b2I/AAAAAAAAASQ/PpqVoHRfiNo/s1600-h/IMG_1229_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889895648456546" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAdHU4b2I/AAAAAAAAASQ/PpqVoHRfiNo/s400/IMG_1229_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is one of the brackets made to set against the adapter plate and utilize those bolts to build a frame around the motor. A plasma cutter makes these custom corners a breeze. The metal used here was 3/16" x 3" flat bar.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAc5Dz3eI/AAAAAAAAASI/NFjtJhAlqEE/s1600-h/IMG_1235_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889891818757602" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAc5Dz3eI/AAAAAAAAASI/NFjtJhAlqEE/s400/IMG_1235_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />That same mount shown in place.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcwathnI/AAAAAAAAASA/Nfb7tzYv2gU/s1600-h/IMG_1236_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889889498891890" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcwathnI/AAAAAAAAASA/Nfb7tzYv2gU/s400/IMG_1236_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Next I welded 1/4" x 1 1/2" angle to the plate.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADU--0CI/AAAAAAAAARo/zChA6-AFWe4/s1600-h/IMG_1250_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889452638097442" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADU--0CI/AAAAAAAAARo/zChA6-AFWe4/s400/IMG_1250_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>I made another plate for the other side of the motor. These couldn't set at the same level on this side and are slightly higher overall because the closest bolt to the center is below the angle iron in this shot and can't be seen.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADFiSTWI/AAAAAAAAARg/W45fKW5GMWI/s1600-h/IMG_1251_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889448491208034" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADFiSTWI/AAAAAAAAARg/W45fKW5GMWI/s400/IMG_1251_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is the finished support frame. The front bracket was also 3/16" x 3" flat. The center was notched out for the secondary output shaft of the motor. The two ears were added to bolt to the front of the motor. We'll see how all this fits a bit later.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACn0qB7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/GLqsXWz1Nfk/s1600-h/IMG_1253_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889440515196850" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACn0qB7I/AAAAAAAAARQ/GLqsXWz1Nfk/s400/IMG_1253_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Finally on the frame assembly two holes have been drilled on each side to mount the brackets that attach to the old motor mounts. These must be bolted on and NOT welded because the motor mount bolts are at an angle and the motor will not drop in properly if it's all welded together.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADEdWbvI/AAAAAAAAARY/o1JESw7O2oU/s1600-h/IMG_1252_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889448202071794" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfADEdWbvI/AAAAAAAAARY/o1JESw7O2oU/s400/IMG_1252_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is one of the two motor mount adapters. It's hard to see here but there is a bend to metal to transmission from the angle of the motor mounts to the level frame support. The larger center hole on the left is a 1/2" hole and existing motor mount bolt goes here. The slightly offset hole from there is an alignment hole where the motor mount has a tab sticking up. The two smaller holes are for the mounting to the frame support. I used 3/8" bolts here and drilled the holes one size up from there. The most important feature of these adapters is the small strips of metal on each side. They create a triangular shape and add a great amount of support against the weight that will be pushing down on them.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcUOYdHI/AAAAAAAAARw/mKxXGXyIZkA/s1600-h/IMG_1249_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889881930986610" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAcUOYdHI/AAAAAAAAARw/mKxXGXyIZkA/s400/IMG_1249_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here is a quick shot of the whole assembly before we take it out for paint. It's much easier to the angle of the mount adapters in this shot. At this point I've probably installed and removed pieces of this a dozen times as the measurements were made and it was all built.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAccCIj6I/AAAAAAAAAR4/RrLrP87LXpI/s1600-h/IMG_1248_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889884027096994" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfAccCIj6I/AAAAAAAAAR4/RrLrP87LXpI/s400/IMG_1248_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is the whole assembly again after a primer, two coats of semi flat black and one coat of clear.<br /><div><div><div><div><div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACbPfE2I/AAAAAAAAARI/qj-T48VjB8E/s1600-h/IMG_1277_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889437138064226" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRfACbPfE2I/AAAAAAAAARI/qj-T48VjB8E/s400/IMG_1277_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot from the back side of the assembly.<br /><div><div><div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JgKsztI/AAAAAAAAAQo/h8CUpGVHMZQ/s1600-h/IMG_1278_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888459207626450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JgKsztI/AAAAAAAAAQo/h8CUpGVHMZQ/s400/IMG_1278_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Here are those two ears I was talking about earlier. These are the only two spots on the motor. Depending on how you build your plate and fasten it to the motor these two bolts could end up anywhere. You do have the option of rotating them in 90 degree increments though by rotating the motor on the adapter plate. I didn't feel like taking everything back apart and didn't see much benefit from a rotation so I worked with what I had.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JFGD6ZI/AAAAAAAAAQY/f3FlSeSYRyw/s1600-h/IMG_1280_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888451940411794" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_JFGD6ZI/AAAAAAAAAQY/f3FlSeSYRyw/s400/IMG_1280_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div></div><div>Here we have the completed and installed motor mount from the right side of the car. The largest bolt on the plate connecting to the adapter plate originally called for 47 foot pounds and that was reused here. The motor mount nuts were torqued to original spec of 40 lb/ft and the newly added 3/8" bolts were torqued to 35 lb/ft.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_I5YdgwI/AAAAAAAAAQI/FQ6GwVTyadY/s1600-h/IMG_1282_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888448796361474" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_I5YdgwI/AAAAAAAAAQI/FQ6GwVTyadY/s400/IMG_1282_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot from the right side of the car. You can see here that bolt is just below the angle iron and a tight fit. Make sure you give yourself enough clearance to get a socket in there. Also I mentioned earlier this side had to set slightly higher. You can't really see it here but I crafted two 1/4" x 1" x 3" spacers to set between the frame and the mount adapters to make up the 1/2" difference.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_wQJ8hjI/AAAAAAAAARA/aIzHnfe39h4/s1600-h/IMG_1281_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266889124924393010" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_wQJ8hjI/AAAAAAAAARA/aIzHnfe39h4/s400/IMG_1281_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is a shot of the entire assembly installed.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_Jmv1ZwI/AAAAAAAAAQg/rlguHSPfj0w/s1600-h/IMG_1279_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266888460973991682" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SRe_Jmv1ZwI/AAAAAAAAAQg/rlguHSPfj0w/s400/IMG_1279_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>With this done I finished installing a few last things on the transmission (shifter, console, etc). Next I jacked up the rear of the car and put the transmission into 1st gear. I then tried the old 12 volt test again and the back wheels started spinning forward. Make sure to keep an ear out for any strange noises or vibrations. Things should be fairly quiet or something is wrong.</div><div></div><div>So then I couldn't resist. I lowered the rear of the car and ran the motor again. I was amazed at the torque from only 12v. The car immediately lunged forward and begin moving fairly quickly. I'm pretty excited at this point as things are slowly falling into place.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I started off by removing the bolt that holds the coupler and putting a drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">loctite</span> to make sure it doesn't come out. Even if it did the coupler had to be pressed on and I can't imagine it will ever move again, at least not without using a puller.<br /><br />Then I attached the spacers and adapter plate to the motor. Again using some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">loctite</span> and torqued these bolts to 40 ft lbs. With these bolts, and despite them being recessed were still very close the flywheel so I shortened the heads by .07" each using a bench grinder. I didn't want to risk them rubbing after perhaps the motor and transmission warmed up.<br /><br />Next the flywheel was bolted on. The original specs called for 90 ft lbs of torque but I dropped this down to 70 with a small drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">loctite</span>. The original crankshaft this was on was a hardened steel. The steel we are using is considered soft and I didn't want to risk pushing the material too hard and strip out a hole on something that took so long to make.<br /><br />We can now attach the clutch and clutch housing. This part can be tricky if you've never changed out a clutch. You'd think they'd design these different to avoid the problem but they don't. The problem is the clutch itself needs to be centered with the housing, and therefore the transmission input shaft. If you simply tighten all the bolts the clutch will probably be too low (gravity) and you'll never be able to push the transmission and motor together. Usually you can just buy an alignment tool that you slide in while you torque the bolts. I didn't have one so made one out of a 17mm socket and some electric tape. It wasn't perfect but allowed me to slightly move the socket on an extension until I could see it was aligned before tightening the bolts. These bolts called for 19 ft lbs and again I used just a small drop of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">loctite</span>.<br /><br />Next came the hard part. The two guide pin holes we drilled are very slightly off and it requires some elbow grease to get them started each time. After I finally got it together I realized the clutch arm had fallen out and I had to start over. This is a reverse clutch and it actually pulls on the clutch instead of pushing into it to release. It makes hooking the clutch arm into place tricky and has to be done at just the right time while you're mating the motor and transmission.<br /><br />Now the grand finale! I was so nervous to apply the 12v to the motor afraid I'd hear some rubbing, clanking, or just see the whole unit vibrating badly. All of this of course unfounded since I witnessed all the machining work. So I wired everything up and then touch the final wire to the battery. Luckily the transmission cross brace was still attached because that's what kept the whole unit from falling over as the initial torque kicked in. The motor always instantly reached its top speed for 12v and output shaft of the transmission was spinning happily along. Very quiet, very smooth...<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">woohoo</span> it works!<br /><br />Of course the initial test wasn't enough as I was just too excited. I had to go get my wife, bang on my neighbors doors (he helped me strip the car down originally), call my uncle, try out a few of the gears just to see the output shaft spin at different speeds.<br /><br />Here is a quick shot of the completed assembly after the 12v test.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyiQiyVsI/AAAAAAAAAP4/kIAVycjsa0Y/s1600-h/IMG_1166_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258148866581223106" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyiQiyVsI/AAAAAAAAAP4/kIAVycjsa0Y/s400/IMG_1166_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Another shot so you can see another angle.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyi_j2zXI/AAAAAAAAAQA/v-9bUCxlNi0/s1600-h/IMG_1167_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5258148879202176370" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPiyi_j2zXI/AAAAAAAAAQA/v-9bUCxlNi0/s400/IMG_1167_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next comes hoisting the motor/transmission into place in the car and taking measurements for the motor mount that needs to be built next.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I finally got some time from my uncle to machine the parts and it took longer than we anticipated. Engineering as you go and a lot of measuring twice before you cut really added to the time but I think we'll end up with a reliable setup.<br /><br />I loaded up the truck with everything I could think I needed and headed to my Uncle's house.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy1PADjI/AAAAAAAAAOw/A4gHuzA_Xgk/s1600-h/IMG_1123_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582902819950130" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy1PADjI/AAAAAAAAAOw/A4gHuzA_Xgk/s400/IMG_1123_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />First was to create the coupler. The coupler needed to be 3.125" OD with a 1.125" ID with a .25" key. Here is a picture of the raw metal before we began to work with it.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy8BAmPI/AAAAAAAAAO4/SqjYR3hsDqU/s1600-h/IMG_1124_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582904640313586" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavy8BAmPI/AAAAAAAAAO4/SqjYR3hsDqU/s400/IMG_1124_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A shot of the metal slowly getting turned down to the diameter we need.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzCgGhII/AAAAAAAAAPA/yDvIY8e4vOs/s1600-h/IMG_1127_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582906381337730" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzCgGhII/AAAAAAAAAPA/yDvIY8e4vOs/s400/IMG_1127_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It's starting to take shape. You can see the end is a little less than 2" wide and about .200" deep if I recall. We did this so the coupler could sit flush against the motor bearing and wouldn't be able to work its way in.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzBvHKwI/AAAAAAAAAPI/ltmRCyTUEWg/s1600-h/IMG_1128_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582906175859458" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavzBvHKwI/AAAAAAAAAPI/ltmRCyTUEWg/s400/IMG_1128_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here we are cutting the coupler slightly longer than we want it. This was the only step of the lathing process that had enough friction to require a lubricant.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_TF9OoI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/4x_BBB_iBEI/s1600-h/IMG_1131_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583116993510018" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_TF9OoI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/4x_BBB_iBEI/s400/IMG_1131_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now we are slowly shaving off the end to bring it down to the exact length we need.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_ppwt6I/AAAAAAAAAPY/q30KOxwvhv8/s1600-h/IMG_1135_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583123049265058" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPav_ppwt6I/AAAAAAAAAPY/q30KOxwvhv8/s400/IMG_1135_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />After the basic coupler was shaped out we broached out the key way using a 40 ton press. This was so cool to watch I forgot to take pictures.<br /><br />Next we needed to drill and tap the holes. We used the flywheel as the template and a drill bit that was the same size as the hole to make an initial mark before moving down to the correct bit. To use the existing bolts you'll need an 11mm drill bit and a 12mm - 1mm pitch tap. This is not at all easy to find. My Uncle had to order it from a supplier he uses. You won't find this at Napa or Ace as it's a very uncommon pitch for that diameter.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavyuOJoZI/AAAAAAAAAOo/GFaOcnC2vrg/s1600-h/2943513352_f654fdbc60.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257582900937335186" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPavyuOJoZI/AAAAAAAAAOo/GFaOcnC2vrg/s400/2943513352_f654fdbc60.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the final coupler installed on the motor. A couple things I didn't capture on film was the recessed washer and bolt which screws in from the front. We had to recess these to give clearance for the transmission input shaft. We also are using a beveled hex bolt and we beveled the washer on the lathe to match and recess the bolt further. A quick coat of paint to help with rust and we are done. Notice the black garbage bag duct tapped around the motor. This is quick and cheap to do and will prevent anything getting in the motor during the build.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAX2ACJI/AAAAAAAAAPo/U3TPDcRhf-0/s1600-h/IMG_1163_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583135448631442" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAX2ACJI/AAAAAAAAAPo/U3TPDcRhf-0/s400/IMG_1163_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the simple yet invaluable alignment tool. Basically the adapter plate has an existing 4" ID and the coupler is 3.125" OD. So we machine this tool to slide over the coupler and then the adapter plate slides over that allowing us to perfectly align the plate with the center of the transmission.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPaukDvxNMI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CY8N1NXbTMU/s1600-h/IMG_1136_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257581549505819842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPaukDvxNMI/AAAAAAAAAOY/CY8N1NXbTMU/s400/IMG_1136_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the shot making sure the alignment tool works. It's a tight fit, just like we want. The outer darker metal ring is the steel alignment tool.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAThtpnI/AAAAAAAAAPg/p2ok14TivBA/s1600-h/IMG_1138_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257583134289798770" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPawAThtpnI/AAAAAAAAAPg/p2ok14TivBA/s400/IMG_1138_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />There were quite a few steps again here that I couldn't take pictures of. We needed more hands than we had.<br /><br />The first thing you'll do is use any alignment pins on the transmission and mark those across first. Simply slide your plate onto the alignment tool and find a good position that will make sure no part of the transmission is sticking out past the edges. Then using a rubber mallet give the plate a whack over the pins to mark out their location.<br /><br />In order to start marking your holes you'll need a couple of things. First is a good set of transfer punches. This can be placed in different sized holes and mark the center where we'll need to drill. There were four holes on the tranny that were threaded and we couldn't use a transfer punch. We bought extra bolts and cut the heads off and turned a perfectly centered point in the lathe. We could then use our mallet again to mark these locations and drill them all out.<br /><br />After we had all of our holes drilled out we butted the transmision to the adapter plate and secured it with a few bolts and marked the outline which you can barely see as a scratch in the metal.<br /><div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat8-K_MxI/AAAAAAAAANw/LoqzXcneocM/s1600-h/2943518914_4f9fbe59fd.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580877994472210" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat8-K_MxI/AAAAAAAAANw/LoqzXcneocM/s400/2943518914_4f9fbe59fd.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Now comes the cutting. In our case the most precision cutting tool we had was a plasma cutter. <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9OYgcWI/AAAAAAAAAN4/Tcydz_2insA/s1600-h/2943515474_08444a2b28.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580882346144098" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9OYgcWI/AAAAAAAAAN4/Tcydz_2insA/s400/2943515474_08444a2b28.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>It's not a perfect cut but only took about two minutes. I later took a grinder to the sides to clean it up a little bit but it doesn't need to be perfect as this edge is only cosmetic.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9Ddiw4I/AAAAAAAAAOA/vG8JK4ZOROQ/s1600-h/2943512798_87e78fdff8.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580879414477698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9Ddiw4I/AAAAAAAAAOA/vG8JK4ZOROQ/s400/2943512798_87e78fdff8.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>So next we realized the flywheel didn't have enough clearance and was rubbing on the plate. We then had to bevel the inside ring of the plate and recess the four motor bolts. I believe we put those in about .150".<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9K8EyiI/AAAAAAAAAOI/kFXR0QovF7Q/s1600-h/2942660391_87095525d1.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580881421584930" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9K8EyiI/AAAAAAAAAOI/kFXR0QovF7Q/s400/2942660391_87095525d1.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Here we finally have the transmission mounted to the motor! The clutch and flywheel at this point were not actually attached to the coupler. My uncle and cousin held the assembly in place while I snapped a quick picture.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9rA1HRI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/EGAmS7QWY_s/s1600-h/2943519452_ccbd535170.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257580890031463698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SPat9rA1HRI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/EGAmS7QWY_s/s400/2943519452_ccbd535170.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>The next step will be to tear this back down and reassemble it with proper torques specs, locking compound, etc and then finally give it the 12v test!</div><div></div><div>I also had about 80k miles on this setup so I'm going to spend the money and replace the pilot and throw out bearings while I'm here. I'm thinking of just replacing the clutch too as it does show some decent wear.</div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Well I haven't updated the blog lately because there hasn't been any progress lately. I'm really stuck waiting to install the motor and tranny now and that means this adapter plate and coupler need to get finished. After some incorrect parts came in I finally got some pre machined parts I've been waiting on.<br /><br />Here is the main adapter plate. The pre drilled holes you see are ready to fit the ADC FB1-4001A motor.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4VhPVRNI/AAAAAAAAANo/cM12dGbi820/s1600-h/IMG_1098_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162883121267922" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4VhPVRNI/AAAAAAAAANo/cM12dGbi820/s400/IMG_1098_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is one of the four spacers I calculated I'll need to get the distance correct between the coupler edge and the adapter plate edge.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QJ0BjII/AAAAAAAAANA/BioIooM97EM/s1600-h/IMG_1099_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162790933367938" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QJ0BjII/AAAAAAAAANA/BioIooM97EM/s400/IMG_1099_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />You can see six bolt holes total above. The outer four match the bolt holes on the motor. The inner two are designed to be used with the tension pins shown below. Tapping these pins into the holes will hold the whole assembly together.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QQ2rdkI/AAAAAAAAANI/FsnFY5maul0/s1600-h/IMG_1100_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162792823551554" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QQ2rdkI/AAAAAAAAANI/FsnFY5maul0/s400/IMG_1100_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A shot of the spacers and adatper plate behind held together with the tension pins. Note the final bolts from the adapter plate side into the motor is what will actually hold this together under the strains of operation. These are only to hold it gether during assembly but will remain in place.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QvRwFcI/AAAAAAAAANQ/86UKDTO7uG4/s1600-h/IMG_1101_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162800990164418" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4QvRwFcI/AAAAAAAAANQ/86UKDTO7uG4/s400/IMG_1101_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot of the assembly sitting on the motor. You can see how the spacers push the adapter plate away from the motor. This allows me to build a coupler that is long enough to fit onto the entire shaft and give plenty of threads for holding the flywheel to it. The adapter plate will eventually be cut to match the shape of the transmission.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RKkAVfI/AAAAAAAAANY/gYlFnsuawvY/s1600-h/IMG_1102_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162808314484210" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RKkAVfI/AAAAAAAAANY/gYlFnsuawvY/s400/IMG_1102_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />An inside shot of where the couplter will go. To match the original distance the coupler will actually inset just slightly from the adapter plate. We may need to do some milling on the face of the adapter plate so the flywheel doens't hit.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RR-m-xI/AAAAAAAAANg/aNOQhpk7Ssg/s1600-h/IMG_1103_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5248162810305116946" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SNU4RR-m-xI/AAAAAAAAANg/aNOQhpk7Ssg/s400/IMG_1103_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Sadly that's it for now. I'm now waiting for when is a good time for my uncle to machine the coupler and finish up the adapter plate to match the transmission. Looks like this will be early October. The anticipation of getting to drive this when it's done is killing me! I think I'll spend the next couple weeks working on my AC and heater designs.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
Now we'll build a sensor for detecting the RPM of the motor. This number is important for safety of the motor, efficient when driving, and most importantly my power steering needs this value. Sure I could just spoof a number to make it happy but would much rather have the real value and display it on the original tachometer.<br /><br />First off the sensor we will be using is a Melexis 90217 Hall-Effect Sensor. This is really a great sensor. It auto calibrates itself depending on the seen variations in magnetic fields and has a built in ADC. The sensor can be used in a few ways but in this case it seems easier to use the gear tooth pickup feature. Basically you can add a magnet to one side of the sensor and then by running metal past the sensor on the other side causes the magnetic field to pass through the sensor. As each tooth passes by it detects the tooth. Take the total count for a given period of time and divide that by your number of teeth and then convert that time frame to minutes for your RPM!<br /><br />I picked up a few supplies from a local Tractor Supply and of course hardware store. I found a keyed collar that was 3/4" (secondary output shaft). I also found a 3/4" gear which I figured I could use. They also had the 1/4"x1" key I needed to lock the collar to the motor shaft. I also picked up a plastic spacer. I needed something to house the sensor that wasn't a material the magnetic force would be affected by. The long black thing is just some heat shrinking tubing.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHuAm27l4I/AAAAAAAAAM4/05rt4OPmj2A/s1600-h/IMG_1037_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229535806953346" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHuAm27l4I/AAAAAAAAAM4/05rt4OPmj2A/s400/IMG_1037_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />I put some heat shrink tubing around the magnet so that the pins of the sensor wouldn't short out across it. Next I hot glued the sensor to the magnet.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt75u50bI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/T0o1nc7MoTk/s1600-h/IMG_1036_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229454974210482" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt75u50bI/AAAAAAAAAMQ/T0o1nc7MoTk/s400/IMG_1036_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The sensor and magnet were then placed inside the plastic collar and hot glued into place. The connector is attached to the sensor.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8B2c0KI/AAAAAAAAAMY/Db_6P4j457I/s1600-h/IMG_1038_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229457153347746" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8B2c0KI/AAAAAAAAAMY/Db_6P4j457I/s400/IMG_1038_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a top view. You can see the sensor embedded in the spacer and hot glue.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8ELSQtI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Ei0fMqjkagE/s1600-h/IMG_1039_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229457777607378" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8ELSQtI/AAAAAAAAAMg/Ei0fMqjkagE/s400/IMG_1039_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Next I put a layer of heat shrink tubing around the whole thing (blue) followed by a few wraps of electrical tape. The sensor is ready.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Yz-SOI/AAAAAAAAAMo/-MIEGdKg63Y/s1600-h/IMG_1042_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229463316973794" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Yz-SOI/AAAAAAAAAMo/-MIEGdKg63Y/s400/IMG_1042_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Now we needed something to mount the sensor to that could be mounted to the motor. Again to avoid interfering with the magnetic field I choose an aluminum square tubing. It's easy to work with and doesn't need to be strong to only hold the sensor. It also allowed for the sensor and wire to be enclosed even further. I cut an oblong mounting hole so that it could be precisely adjusted above the gear if needed.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Xz9pEI/AAAAAAAAAMw/7zBDfpc1Dzs/s1600-h/IMG_1043_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229463048496194" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHt8Xz9pEI/AAAAAAAAAMw/7zBDfpc1Dzs/s400/IMG_1043_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the completed sensor assembly. It was a snug fit into the tubing but I added some extra electrical tap anyway.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoOvCwKI/AAAAAAAAALw/GXl22ntygrk/s1600-h/IMG_1046_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229117014556834" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoOvCwKI/AAAAAAAAALw/GXl22ntygrk/s400/IMG_1046_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />I welded the gear to the collar and painted them to protect the steel from the elements. Not bad!<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoHoYOzI/AAAAAAAAALo/IeMqMIkW8rU/s1600-h/IMG_1045_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229115107556146" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtoHoYOzI/AAAAAAAAALo/IeMqMIkW8rU/s400/IMG_1045_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the gear and sensor mounted to the motor. When I'm doing the final wiring I will protect the sensor wires in a loom. Right now I have a few extra washers bring the sensor out far enough. Later this will be replaced with the mount for my AC compressor.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvapIhPI/AAAAAAAAAL4/tsJRDEf02fc/s1600-h/IMG_1047_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229240470078706" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvapIhPI/AAAAAAAAAL4/tsJRDEf02fc/s400/IMG_1047_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of my setup testing the RPM sensor. Make sure you never apply more than 12 volts on this motor unless it's under load. You can seriously hurt the motor and yourself.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtviSfi3I/AAAAAAAAAMA/knDwJSNiJFE/s1600-h/IMG_1051_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229242522602354" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtviSfi3I/AAAAAAAAAMA/knDwJSNiJFE/s400/IMG_1051_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the output from my debugger. I'm doing a 250ms sample in this test so my number needs to be multiplied by 240 to get RPM. If I was doing a 1000ms, or 1 second, sample I would multiply by 60. In addition I have 12 teeth on the gear so the number must be divided by 12.<br />98 * 240 / 12 = 1960.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvny8nzI/AAAAAAAAAMI/Mm4--XTGBwc/s1600-h/IMG_1050_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238229244000902962" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHtvny8nzI/AAAAAAAAAMI/Mm4--XTGBwc/s400/IMG_1050_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />In the final project a variance of the pulses, not RPM will be sent to the gauge and EPS unit. I think it was something like four pulses / revolution. I'll have to do some testing and compare my debugger numbers to the gauge to calibrate that.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">FB</span>1-4001 from Advanced DC motors is far from having all the bells and whistles you'd hope for. In fact the only sensor it has is an on/off over heat sensor that is open until the temperature has risen too high in which case the circuit closes. This is great for a dummy light or buzzer but for those of us who want real numbers all the time you'll have to make your own.<br /><br />I found a large bolt hole that I think was used to hoist the motor into the crate. It's a 5/16 course thread and looked like a good spot to mount the sensor. I bought a 1" 5/16 bolt, washer and a nut. The reason for the nut is so that I can shorten the bolt and then remove the nut which helps to clean up the threads after cutting them.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ahxqhI/AAAAAAAAAJw/o-wsXrCJihA/s1600-h/IMG_1056_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220719224105490" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ahxqhI/AAAAAAAAAJw/o-wsXrCJihA/s400/IMG_1056_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />After cutting the bolt I drilled a hole down the center of the bolt. The sensor will be installed here later.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ZUppQI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/22NlGB_pBO4/s1600-h/IMG_1059_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220718900618498" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ZUppQI/AAAAAAAAAJ4/22NlGB_pBO4/s400/IMG_1059_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />The sensor is a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">LM</span>34 from National Semiconductor. There are quite a few ways to use this little guy depending on the temperature range you need. I'm just using the basic setup which allows for 5-300 degrees <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Fahrenheit</span>. Each degree will change the output signal by 10<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">mV</span>. Then by using an analog to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">digital</span> converter (ADC) you can get a nice digital readout of the temperature. Below is the sensor after connecting it to three wires and heat shrinking them so they can't touch.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ireG_I/AAAAAAAAAKA/V03RmVP35xU/s1600-h/IMG_1060_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220721412250610" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_ireG_I/AAAAAAAAAKA/V03RmVP35xU/s400/IMG_1060_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Next I wrapped the whole thing in another heath shrink layer to hold it all together.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_hzqRHI/AAAAAAAAAKI/posH1Fkt-50/s1600-h/IMG_1061_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220721178166386" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_hzqRHI/AAAAAAAAAKI/posH1Fkt-50/s400/IMG_1061_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We are now ready to mount the sensor so I mixed up some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">JB</span> weld.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_2vMv4I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/XC4jvQ82VlM/s1600-h/IMG_1062_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238220726796599170" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHl_2vMv4I/AAAAAAAAAKQ/XC4jvQ82VlM/s400/IMG_1062_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I filled the hole with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">JB</span> Weld and then inserted the sensor.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRNSMxtI/AAAAAAAAAKY/7l2uPnEjICo/s1600-h/IMG_1063_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221024906757842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRNSMxtI/AAAAAAAAAKY/7l2uPnEjICo/s400/IMG_1063_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />The other side of the sensor after <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">JB</span> Weld.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRV9OsGI/AAAAAAAAAKg/rmkiF6e9tPo/s1600-h/IMG_1064_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221027234721890" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRV9OsGI/AAAAAAAAAKg/rmkiF6e9tPo/s400/IMG_1064_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />After it dried I applied a coat of paint. This is a steel bolt and will rust if not protected.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmReYoWxI/AAAAAAAAAKo/dE2SC6Z52qk/s1600-h/IMG_1065_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221029497133842" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmReYoWxI/AAAAAAAAAKo/dE2SC6Z52qk/s400/IMG_1065_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Finally here is a shot of the new sensor installed in the motor. Later when finalizing the wiring during install I will protect the exposed sensor wires in a wiring loom.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRmWlvzI/AAAAAAAAAKw/_RxuBrOPvEA/s1600-h/IMG_1066_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221031636057906" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmRmWlvzI/AAAAAAAAAKw/_RxuBrOPvEA/s400/IMG_1066_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is the output from my debug terminal. I tried running the motor for awhile but with no load and only 12 volts going through it the temperature didn't rise. I did take the sensor and set it in direct sunlight and it went up 10 degrees in just a few minutes. The picture below is showing the ADC value that is being returned. It's a 12 bit ADC (0-5v) but you could easily go with less accuracy for the sensor.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmR8lHj0I/AAAAAAAAAK4/Y_DRZPgI9TI/s1600-h/IMG_1069_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238221037602574146" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLHmR8lHj0I/AAAAAAAAAK4/Y_DRZPgI9TI/s400/IMG_1069_small.jpg" border="0" /></a>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
After unpacking the motor I found a few things that EV America put in there for me. First was a document with a few warnings and guidelines. One that caught my eye was that motor can't be run in CW rotation unless ADC or a representative has modified the motor. The motor comes ready for <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">CCW</span> rotation which is good for most vehicles, except Honda as they run in CW rotation. I contacted EV America and they gave me a walk through on changing the motor. <div></div><div>In order to make the change rotation you need to release the springs on the brushes and then remove the four bolts holding the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">CEH</span> in place. You can then rotate the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">CEH</span>. The far left holes pictured here were for the original <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">CCW</span>, the next hole is for neutral whatever that means, and the bolts are currently in the CW location. These holes change the timing of the motor and determine which way it will want to pull. I had no idea it worked this and just figured you'd hook the polarity backwards to change the direction. Not the case here, it will rotate the same way regardless of polarity.</div><div></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwM8x_0I/AAAAAAAAAJY/3PjC2GYz0hU/s1600-h/IMG_1026_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237788349811523394" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwM8x_0I/AAAAAAAAAJY/3PjC2GYz0hU/s400/IMG_1026_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Second I added screen (window screen) to the brush protector to keep out all but the smallest of objects. This will help prevent damage from small rocks flying up into the motor. The screen was attached with a hot glue gun and then I used scissors and a utility knife to cut it to size.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwC3SmSI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OVdMZzL6VPM/s1600-h/IMG_1025_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237788347104139554" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBcwC3SmSI/AAAAAAAAAJg/OVdMZzL6VPM/s400/IMG_1025_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of the motor assembled again. I manually rotated the motor by hand to make sure it was smooth. I put some small 6 gauge wire on for a quick 12 volt test to make sure the motor rotated the proper direction. I say small on the wire because I will be running 2/0 wire which will dwarf the 6 gauge wire. 6 gauge wire is actually quite large. For example this was the wire I used to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">pre wire</span> for my hot tub. You can also see in this picture the chain I attached using the bolt holes on each end to lift it out of the container.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBntXpegtI/AAAAAAAAAJo/Yb7NjKZb65s/s1600-h/IMG_1031_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237800395771642578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SLBntXpegtI/AAAAAAAAAJo/Yb7NjKZb65s/s400/IMG_1031_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Ok</span> here is probably the first EV part of the build I've done. I was going to wait on the vacuum system because you typically don't want to start planning where to place components until the motor is mounted. Overall from that point it's probably best to consider the larger items and work smaller to make sure you have room for everything. However, you may recall a spot in the far front left corner of the car where there was an emissions pump of sorts and I removed that. I just happens to be a great size to put my full vacuum system so I decided to get this piece of the project out of the way while I wait on the adapter plate/coupler pieces.<br /><br />Below is a vacuum reservoir that I built. It's designed to store extra volume of less pressure air. Typically an ICE (internal combustion engine) will generate approximately 10-20 in/Hg and in large volumes so there isn't a need for this as the existing reservoir will hold plenty. With an EV we need to be as efficient as possible. This involves using a somewhat small and efficient vacuum pump that will build up the vacuum over time. When the brakes are needed the reservoir will be able to produce multiple uses of the brakes before becoming depleted at which point you'll loose the power assist and it's much harder to depress the brake pedal to stop.<br /><br />The reservoir can be purchased but it's simple enough that most should create their own. All of the parts are easily found at a hardware store in the plumbing area. I used 4" ABS and the unit is about 8" to 10" long. In order to only have to deal with one hole that needed to be sealed I opted to use tees outside the reservoir. The one hole was thread with a tap and die set and a threaded tube was threaded using plumbers tape to help seal was ran through the top. On the inside a coupler was used allow me to really tighten things down. Plumbers tape was used on all connections to help avoid any leaks. The barbed fittings allow for hose to be slipped on and then using a ring clamp you can secure them well.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b7q_kpII/AAAAAAAAAJI/6sKMT59U22k/s1600-h/IMG_1010_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237154128645629058" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b7q_kpII/AAAAAAAAAJI/6sKMT59U22k/s400/IMG_1010_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I made my own bracket that would take advantage of the existing bolt holes in the frame and would allow me to fully mount the complete vacuum system in one shot. I believe this was<br />48"x 1"x 1/8" flat steel and cost about $4 with metal leftover.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJDQQCkI/AAAAAAAAAII/dOfWTOz6OBA/s1600-h/IMG_1011_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153258984704578" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJDQQCkI/AAAAAAAAAII/dOfWTOz6OBA/s400/IMG_1011_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here you can see the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Gast</span> vacuum pump secured to the mounting bracket. In addition you can also see some rather large ring clamps that will hold the reservoir in place.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b71clJ1I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/PsigK4cJMq8/s1600-h/IMG_1012_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237154131451651922" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4b71clJ1I/AAAAAAAAAJQ/PsigK4cJMq8/s400/IMG_1012_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bot8zcKI/AAAAAAAAAIo/cdXYbVrei_0/s1600-h/IMG_1010_small.jpg"></a><br /><div>A shot of the reservoir attached to the bracket. </div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJljnrnI/AAAAAAAAAIY/ggCrftukwPs/s1600-h/IMG_1013_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153268192751218" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJljnrnI/AAAAAAAAAIY/ggCrftukwPs/s400/IMG_1013_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>Here is the assembly attached to the car. It's hard to see but all the vacuum lines have been attached. There isn't a special vacuum line. Anything that holds up well to the elements will do as long as the walls are not too thin in which case it could collapse under the vacuum. For all the major lines I'm just using a 3/8" ID black fuel line I found at the hardware store. You can also see a very small clear line. This runs over to the switch which is mounted to the back of the bracket. I forgot to take the picture of the switch being mounted but you can slightly see it where the red wire has the yellow shrink tubing sticking out. One of the barbed fittings was removed and capped before installation and after I had calibrated the vacuum switch.</div><div></div><div>To calibrate and test I hooked the hose my new vacuum system to the cars original reservoir and connected the battery directly. First I adjusted the switch until it turned off at 20 in/Hg. The pump is rated for a maximum of 25 but that usually means it will get pretty slow and take longer to reach that using more energy. Next I counted how long it took to bring the system from atmospheric pressure to 20 in/Hg ~25 seconds on average. Next I did multiple runs of pumping the brakes quickly to deplete the system. I consistently get five well assisted depressions of the pedal followed by two that were slightly stiffer and then after that it's much harder to press the pedal and the vacuum gauge shows depletion. Next I checked what happens after just depressing and releasing the pedal one time. Every time the pump would turn back on and take on average five seconds before shutting off. At first I was thinking this wasn't good and would prefer it to go two to three times before kicking back on but then realized a potential hazard with that. If I only have five good pedal depressions and releases and say three are used up what happens if I needed the brakes a few more times in a row in some emergency situation? I realized it turning on for a short while after each braking was really a good thing. Probably the only way to get away from this would be to have a HUGE reservoir where the pressure wasn't affected so much with each braking.</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJq9py4I/AAAAAAAAAIg/mBfenJtVkKY/s1600-h/IMG_1015_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153269644118914" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bJq9py4I/AAAAAAAAAIg/mBfenJtVkKY/s400/IMG_1015_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Here is a shot showing the line running up to the original brake reservoir (it's the new shiny black hose.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bpLssj1I/AAAAAAAAAI4/RqgHYLfklo8/s1600-h/IMG_1016_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5237153811007311698" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SK4bpLssj1I/AAAAAAAAAI4/RqgHYLfklo8/s400/IMG_1016_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>I still have to run an ignition lead to a relay near the pump so that it only runs when the key is on and I'll be using the wiring which was already in the area for the old pump. I'll be holding off on this until I install the rest of the electronics.</div><div></div><div>As you can see the overall system is very easy to build and straight forward. I used a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Gast</span> vacuum pump from EV America ($225). The switch was ordered from EV Parts ($23.50). Everything else was obtained from the local hardware store including the metal to build the bracket.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
As I mentioned before I wasn't sure which route I was going to take on getting the plate and coupler made. For my setup it turns out I need six pieces machined total.<br /><br />The coupler which mates the motor output shaft to the original flywheel. The flywheel has the clutch attached to it which then slides over the input shaft to the transmission.<br /><br />The adapter plate is the second piece. It needs to be cut to match the outline of the transmission and have all guides and bolt holes drilled out. The center of this plate needs to be perfectly aligned with the motor and trany shafts to all fit together properly.<br /><br />Finally I need four spacers. These spacers sit between the motor and the adapter plate. If you think about the original setup the flywheel is positioned a certain distance away from the mating surface of the transmission. This distance must be matched very closely so that the everything fits properly and the clutch still works. In order to do this I need to add an additional two inches of spacing between the motor and adapter plate. Each spacer and the adapter plate are made from half inch 6061 aluminum.<br /><br />So I did some research and EV America has pre machined spacers and adapter plates. I called a local metal supplier to compare the cost of the raw metal vs their price and it's reasonable in my opinion for the time saved. Also if you were to go to Joe's machinging and have them create these with or without specs you'd probably pay more. If you can machine them yourself and need to save as much as possible then that's the clear path. I was quoted $350 for a 24"x48"x.5" 6061 sheet of aluminum. Add tax and you're closer to $375 or so. This assumes you don't make any mistakes maching and need to buy more. EV America has the adapter plates for $220 and the spacers for $90. I ended up paying $590 shipped.<br /><br />Basically the spacers are ready to bolt on. The adapter plate has the inside hole and bolt holes for the motor ready to go I just need to do the transmission outline and guide/bolt holes. The couplers they sell are for cluthless designs so won't work for me, I want my clutch since I drive in the hills and will need to down shift. I can buy the raw metal for the coupler for ~$25.<br /><br />My uncle has agreed to do the maching work for me. He doesn't have a lot of free time right now but since most of the parts needed are machined we should be able to finish the rest on a Sunday and be done with it. If we had to do it all I'd have to wait till after October for the help.<br /><br />I plan to add some photos of all of this once they are machined and will show the assembly of them to give you a better idea of how it all works.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I've added a list of EV related links on the right side of this blog. These are by far not all the sites out there but I find I use them the most for obtaining information, comparing prices and just passing time when I'm bored and planning things for the conversion.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I finally got some long awaited parts in this week. Below is the box the motor was shipped in. I'm going with an Advanced DC FB1-4001A. This is a dual shaft motor that can operate from 72 volts up to 144 volts. My goal is run it at 144 (room for batteries permitting).<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawv5qjPI/AAAAAAAAAHA/t8raOo-wNi0/s1600-h/IMG_1001_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549197938265330" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawv5qjPI/AAAAAAAAAHA/t8raOo-wNi0/s400/IMG_1001_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />This thing was really well packed.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawxjQMRI/AAAAAAAAAHI/taKzH0XrLRs/s1600-h/IMG_1002_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549198381134098" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTawxjQMRI/AAAAAAAAAHI/taKzH0XrLRs/s400/IMG_1002_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is picture of the motor with my hand as a reference for the size. Amazing how small it is and yet it weighs in at about 140 pounds.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxO_BMsI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/0DNO68RcVXM/s1600-h/IMG_1004_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549206282220226" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxO_BMsI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/0DNO68RcVXM/s400/IMG_1004_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the Albright contactor SW-200. It uses a 12v signal to trigger a massive contact point which will allow the 144 volts from the traction batteries to be sent to the motor controller. Two are used for added safety. One will be turned on with the ignition switch and the second will be turned on when the pot box switch is triggered (just as you begin to press the accelerator).<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxS6oBoI/AAAAAAAAAHg/i97rl5hCI20/s1600-h/IMG_1006_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549207337535106" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxS6oBoI/AAAAAAAAAHg/i97rl5hCI20/s400/IMG_1006_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Not sure why this blog image uploader decided that some of my images were better off sideways. Here is the vacuum pump that will be used for the power assisted brakes. An additional chamber to keep a vacuum reserve will be built but I'll cover all these details as they are built and implemented later.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbF_P8XxI/AAAAAAAAAHo/Ps6KeMkZJdA/s1600-h/IMG_1007_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549562835492626" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbF_P8XxI/AAAAAAAAAHo/Ps6KeMkZJdA/s400/IMG_1007_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the motor controller again picture with my hand for size reference. This guy weighs in at almost 20 lbs. I'm using a Curtis 1231C-8601. This can run between 96-144 volts and push a maximum of 500 amps. Do not confuse this with the other 1231C model which is only for up to 120v and 550 amps. The end of the model number is different but not always shown on some websites.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbFyGuMPI/AAAAAAAAAHw/ccaIaif8Xqo/s1600-h/IMG_1008_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549559307153650" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbFyGuMPI/AAAAAAAAAHw/ccaIaif8Xqo/s400/IMG_1008_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a sheet of metal that the controller will be mounted to and a fan that will greatly help to remove heat from the unit. This should help the unit for many hours of operation.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbGCs0ywI/AAAAAAAAAH4/C47aw-mOWnU/s1600-h/IMG_1009_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549563761937154" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTbGCs0ywI/AAAAAAAAAH4/C47aw-mOWnU/s400/IMG_1009_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a picture of the Curtis PB-6 potbox. It will connect to the original accelerator cable and provide the motor control with the data for how fast I want to go. It's hard to see in the picture but on the left side of the picture are three little connectors. These are what I was referrering to earlier that will trigger one of my contactors that we need power.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxA9eoXI/AAAAAAAAAHY/Cd-FvwZhcwY/s1600-h/IMG_1005_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5234549202517664114" style="CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SKTaxA9eoXI/AAAAAAAAAHY/Cd-FvwZhcwY/s400/IMG_1005_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now that we have the motor the next major task is to find a machinist who can work some magic and mate my new motor to the transmission.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
So after doing some research on why the EPS light would come on it's exactly like a check engine light. There are a set of codes that can be displayed to help diagnose problems with the system. The bad part is you can't use your standard cheap OBDII tool to read and clear these codes. The only scanners that will work for sure are from Honda and you can't buy them. There are some 3rd party scanners that cover most of the functionality and on average you can own one for 5k. Now I figured I was really in trouble here. After going over the electrical diagrams and service manual in general for many hours I found the loop hole I needed. It turns out Honda installed a backup way to do all of this in case your scanner software wasn't up-to-date! It turns out the EPS was complaining there was no vehicle speed signal and no engine rpms. I reset the codes and then made sure both spoofed signals were in place and the problem went away. It also turned out I was only getting a partial assist boost. Once I removed the dtc codes the boost is now very noticable.<br /><br />How to retrieve subsystem DTC codes:<br />1) Bring the SCS to ground. This is pin 1 (at least on this vehicle). Unless you have a scanner which can do this, simply take a wire and stick it into the pin 1 hole. Then attach the other end to a ground on the vehicle. I believe pins 12 and 13 are also ground and you might be able to use of them but I didn't test this.<br /><br />2) Turn the ignition ON. All subsystems will now begin displaying their DTC codes through their indicator light in the dash. Note that if a system doesn't have any codes the light will remain on or off. The light will flash for each number so count the flashes. It will also alternate between slow and fast flashes per digit. For example a code of 23 would be two slow flashes followed by three quick flashes.<br /><br />3) Look this code up in your service manual to determine the problem. Each subsystem also has a crazy way to reset it. The EPS involved turning the steering wheel full left to center a couple times with pauses in between.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS9USp9pQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/e6GzBnne1NQ/s1600-h/IMG_0990_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230013223586866434" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS9USp9pQI/AAAAAAAAAE4/e6GzBnne1NQ/s320/IMG_0990_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> I finally got the new handheld oscilloscope in to try and figure out what I was doing wrong in creating the RPM signal for my gauge and to enable the electronic power steering to work. The scope is a Velleman HPS10 and I picked it up new on ebay for $140 shipped. I didn't know what to expect never using a scope before but looking at the features I was pretty sure it would do what I needed. I'm really impressed with this scope for the money after using it. It showed me that my timer circuit I had built wasn't behaving as I thought it was :)<br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS-jr34YqI/AAAAAAAAAFA/1pGrqEKAJYY/s1600-h/IMG_0993_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230014587565793954" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS-jr34YqI/AAAAAAAAAFA/1pGrqEKAJYY/s320/IMG_0993_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div>So ultimately what I'm trying to create here is the signal the RPM gauge wants to see. However, this signal comes from the ECM which it creates based off the crankshaft position sensor and they are not the same pulse. After trying a few different things my circuit still wasn't pulsing what the gauge wanted to see so I decided to simplify things and reconnect the ECM to the engine and crank it over while watching the signal the ECM generates for the gauges on the scope. Instantly I realized my problem. Unlike all the other sensors so far this pulse is NOT 5 volts, it's 12 volts. I was never creating strong enough pulses to be measured.</div><div> </div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS_1RyobWI/AAAAAAAAAFI/W3VIfO_jCrQ/s1600-h/IMG_0986_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230015989313727842" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SJS_1RyobWI/AAAAAAAAAFI/W3VIfO_jCrQ/s320/IMG_0986_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>After building another quick circuit and increasing the frequency a bit I was able to get the gauge to move as I wished. At the same time I heard a relay click and sure enough I had power steering! I tested it a few times trying to turn the wheel without the assist and then turing it on to make sure everything was in working order. I did notice the EPS light is remaining on even after the "engine is started". In other words the RPMs are not zero and I would think the light should turn off now. I'll have to look into that next.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SIz1PCzZa1I/AAAAAAAAAEw/oGbakgGRsS4/s1600-h/IMG_0973_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227822906269592402" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SIz1PCzZa1I/AAAAAAAAAEw/oGbakgGRsS4/s320/IMG_0973_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I finished bleeding the brakes today and wanted to share a few new things I learned this time around. I've always done brakes in the past as a two man job. One guy pushing in on the pedal while the other guy is releasing the pressure at the caliper. The wife was with the baby and my neightbor was on vacation so I decided to purchase a brake bleeding kit. These start at around $25 and go up depending on quality and are well worth it.</div><div> </div><div>First always make sure the reservoir is topped off before bleeding each wheel. You'll also want to check in the service manual for the order the wheels should be bled in. Yes there is a correct order. Before you bleed each wheel remove the bleed valve completely and wrap the threads with teflon tape. This will ensure that no extra air can enter the bleeding tool air lines making it hard to tell when the process is complete. Replace the valve and attach the bleeding kit to the end of valve. Pump the handle and build up the vacuum in the fluid catcher. If the vacuum doesn't want to build up or won't hold check your connections, find the leak and fix it before continuing. Once you have built up 15-20 in/hg you can crack open the bleeder valve and watch the system bleed itself. At first you should only hear the air moving through the system. You might at first see some dark/old fluid after which the air will come. Finally you should start to see the cleaner/new fluid coming into the tube. It doesn't take long and the bubbles will stop coming up the tub. Each wheel should only take 10 seconds or so. If it's taking longer you may still have a leak at the threads and need to redo the teflon tape or you haven't opened the valve very far making it take longer for the fluid to transfer. When the bubbles stop close the valve. Refill the resorvoir and repeat for the other wheels. Do these steps and you'll have your full system bleed in no time at all.</div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItOzsBQWlI/AAAAAAAAADM/koeECIiMcfE/s1600-h/IMG_0945_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358442390313554" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItOzsBQWlI/AAAAAAAAADM/koeECIiMcfE/s320/IMG_0945_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div><div><div><div>Last weekend I started creating a new wiring harness. The original wiring harness had so many extra sensors that I didn't need and didn't want cluttering things up so I decided to take it apart and remove all the connections I wouldn't be using in the conversion. Look at all those wires!</div><div></div><div>I haven't finished the harness yet but will add some pictures of the final product.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO5JpwBxI/AAAAAAAAADU/F6EyTdr3ND8/s1600-h/IMG_0947_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358536244135698" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO5JpwBxI/AAAAAAAAADU/F6EyTdr3ND8/s320/IMG_0947_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div></div></div></div><br /><p>I wanted to make sure that some of the existing sensors that I planned to reuse would still register properly. The of which would be the VSS or vehicle speed sensor. I decided to create circuit that would simulate the sensor output using a Basic Stamp microprocessor. These are very handy little guys for doing various tasks quickly using a simple basic language.</p><p></p><p></p><p><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227358649304033522" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItO_u1VKPI/AAAAAAAAADc/-kmlx67a9lw/s320/IMG_0946_small.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>Here you can see the simulated sensor working. We are doing 40 Mph in my garage! Ugh, is that the odometer going up? Just as if you were really doing 40 Mph everything still functions and responds normally including the odometer. Don't leave that circuit running for too long :)</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItPc48Fa_I/AAAAAAAAADk/y_82sNqabDo/s1600-h/IMG_0953%5B1%5D.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227359150232923122" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SItPc48Fa_I/AAAAAAAAADk/y_82sNqabDo/s320/IMG_0953%5B1%5D.JPG" border="0" /></a></p><p>Ah yes and last but certainly not least is that small delay that I mentioned before. He was born July 22nd. Mom and baby are doing great!</p><p>In the next couple weeks I will be continuing the electronics conversion. The next major step is properly recreating the engine speed pulse. This signal is needed for the RPM gauge, electronic power steering, and cruise controls circuits to function properly. I've ordered a small handheld oscilloscope to make the remainder of any signalling circuits I need to build easier so this step is on hold until that comes in.</p>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
I decided to weigh everything I had and figure out how much weight I've actually removed so far from this car. There are some weight reduction options remaining, but everything else would cost money so I won't consider them at this point.<br /><br />Removed items (lbs)<br />Catalytic converter: 13<br />Headers/Manifold: 20.5<br />Mufflers: 52.5<br />Radiator: 13<br />Gas tank: 25.5 + 79.2 (full tank 1.3 gallons * 6lbs / gallon)<br />Misc (hoses, brackets, emissions): 65.5<br /><br />I've also removed, at least for now the spare time, jack, and tools. These will go back in later but for the initial tests I wanted stripped down: 30<br /><br />The engine and components still attached is somewhat unknown. The specs say 325 but I'm pretty that is without the intake, starter, etc. I'm going to say 350.<br /><br />That makes for a grand total of just under 650 lbs removed. Not bad but you always want more on a project like this :) The car originally weighed 2800 minus the 650 puts as at 2150.<br /><br />Speaking of waiting I found out the motor is going to take longer to come in than I originally expected (up to 6 weeks). I'm going to start working on a few side projects that need to be done at some point anyway to pass the time.
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphEGHomEI/AAAAAAAAACs/rCRlr2mFwHM/s1600-h/IMG_0936_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593440879515714" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphEGHomEI/AAAAAAAAACs/rCRlr2mFwHM/s320/IMG_0936_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I finally got some more time and cooler conditions to continue with the dismantling phase of the project. I went head to toe on the car and found every bracket, heat shield, and emissions components that were no longer needed. Then I started in on the big job which was the gas tank. My neighbor had mentioned that it should be plastic these days and not weigh much. I checked on my truck and sure enough it was plastic but after removing the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">EVAP</span> canister I was able to bang on the tank and it was metal...it's gotta go!</div><div></div><div>The entire rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">sub frame</span> must be removed for this job...ugh. Here you can see the car with the rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">sub frame</span> removed. You can barely see the black of the tank hanging just below the red frame.<br /><br /></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphJRsyv9I/AAAAAAAAAC0/4YTzko3VU9g/s1600-h/IMG_0937_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593529887506386" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphJRsyv9I/AAAAAAAAAC0/4YTzko3VU9g/s320/IMG_0937_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot of the rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">sub frame</span>. This includes the differential, suspension, etc. I tried lifting it...damn too bad I can't remove some weight from that thing. <div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphNz-XQmI/AAAAAAAAAC8/aD_nM8T7GtY/s1600-h/IMG_0938_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593607807484514" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphNz-XQmI/AAAAAAAAAC8/aD_nM8T7GtY/s320/IMG_0938_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />My neighbor George who helped with the first dismantling steps came over and found my camera. Here is an "action" shot of the tank bolts being removed. Please notice the all-purpose 5 gallon bucket from Home-Depot. Today its purpose was to make up the difference between my floor jack and the gas tank which was pretty high off the ground.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphUqpLCbI/AAAAAAAAADE/JI-w2_c0rbo/s1600-h/IMG_0939_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222593725561768370" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHphUqpLCbI/AAAAAAAAADE/JI-w2_c0rbo/s320/IMG_0939_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>At last the final dead weight item as been removed! The rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">sub frame</span> is back together. I still need to bleed the brakes but don't have time today.</div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-04-2009, 03:00 PM
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLW5mQdlMI/AAAAAAAAAAU/0MwaOJnXcew/s1600-h/IMG_0918_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220471203086308546" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLW5mQdlMI/AAAAAAAAAAU/0MwaOJnXcew/s320/IMG_0918_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> I started the processes of removing all of the unnecessary components this weekend. It was hard to start removing that first bolt but as the hours went on I quit focusing dismantling a 30k sports car and focused on the bigger picture, a clean, low maintenance, and low cost sports car!<br /><div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLeW3nin3I/AAAAAAAAACk/VAutepO4uYo/s1600-h/IMG_0923_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220479402544111474" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLeW3nin3I/AAAAAAAAACk/VAutepO4uYo/s320/IMG_0923_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />Here is a shot just after removing some of the intake system, alternator AC compressor, and cooling system.</div><div> </div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLZ6TbCmRI/AAAAAAAAAA8/3nRjz25nf94/s1600-h/IMG_0924_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220474513745156370" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLZ6TbCmRI/AAAAAAAAAA8/3nRjz25nf94/s320/IMG_0924_small.jpg" border="0" /></a> </div><div></div><div>Don't forget to label those bolts and keep things organized. It takes awhile but can really save some time later!<br /><br /></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLcOE5FJqI/AAAAAAAAAB0/HHXUdfI-45s/s1600-h/IMG_0925_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220477052465260194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLcOE5FJqI/AAAAAAAAAB0/HHXUdfI-45s/s320/IMG_0925_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>Here is one of the tubs I bought to just throw parts into so they aren't laying all over the place.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLc3NUf2WI/AAAAAAAAAB8/miKwP8ErD_0/s1600-h/IMG_0926_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220477759102376290" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLc3NUf2WI/AAAAAAAAAB8/miKwP8ErD_0/s320/IMG_0926_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div></div><div>After two days we had everything major out except the engine. It is amazing how much time is spent disconnecting wire harnesses and brackets that you don't have good access to! Here is a picture of the exhaust system.<br /></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdI3wpbjI/AAAAAAAAACE/_GhTZfAc8QE/s1600-h/IMG_0927_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220478062552510002" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdI3wpbjI/AAAAAAAAACE/_GhTZfAc8QE/s320/IMG_0927_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>Here is the transmission. Although it was removed it will be reused in the conversion. We still need to create the adapter plate from the new electric motor and transmission. In addition a coupler between the motor shaft and flywheel must be created.</div><div> </div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdUxw3VdI/AAAAAAAAACM/0Yt53n_hYjY/s1600-h/IMG_0931_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220478267101238738" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdUxw3VdI/AAAAAAAAACM/0Yt53n_hYjY/s320/IMG_0931_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>Day3 After some more removing of sensors and hoses and other crap it was finally time to hook the engine up to the hoist! This was not easy compared to many other vehicles the front <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">sub frame</span> needed to be dropped 3 inches to make room to get the bell housing bolts out.</div><div><br /></div><div></div><div></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdsJvxx1I/AAAAAAAAACU/vXNLASEXtnw/s1600-h/IMG_0932_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220478668676122450" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLdsJvxx1I/AAAAAAAAACU/vXNLASEXtnw/s320/IMG_0932_small.jpg" border="0" /></a></div><div></div><div>It's almost out, just a little further!!!</div><div> </div><div></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLd8wRvL-I/AAAAAAAAACc/vMilLUzwCK0/s1600-h/IMG_0933_small.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5220478953897013218" style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SHLd8wRvL-I/AAAAAAAAACc/vMilLUzwCK0/s320/IMG_0933_small.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Success</span>! Look at all that room in there. The new electric motor is only 9.1" diameter and 15" long leaving a lot of room for batteries up front.</div><div></div><div>There are a few little pieces here and there to remove but the biggest is the gas tank which remains in the car. Just like the engine the rear <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">sub frame</span> needs to be dropped to get it out. Hopefully I can get to that and more next weekend.<br /></div><div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-10-2009, 04:00 AM
It's been a long and painful wait getting to the point for the first test drive of my car but the wait is over! This weekend I was able to get the car to the point I could go for the first test drive and I'm still grinning. The video isn't the greatest since it was getting dark. I'll be adding another video in better lighting which also shows under the hood and trunk along with an inside the car test drive later this week.<br /><br /><object width="320" height="266" class="BLOG_video_class" id="BLOG_video-a384e280e2ee75c5" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="movie" value="http://www.blogger.com/img/videoplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.goo gle.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl% 3DqAAAAP0YN7YpWvFNWPjMMOzGjlWlSJIpXVZAiNo6oLn3U9er lb-wYEb2Zyn9LkcEpZyPHIzeNBOO_ddo2ou1dGaMRj8HqNTgvq1dc Jhl8FuFi5tUMyh9Nimtv__Lm2gqqRzosdNp9cEXGUpv-x_mrGN6xSHeGezBE0R1Tti3GvaYYJYcUgX9HM-MnMbtVpyCpQctp5MbTpG7IYSw-8ATUpPjRFBWNGoKiu0ao5uHmnz23xbj%26sigh%3DfbY4j-sbFi1hYfwvhQ0Fc-M2gXg%26begin%3D0%26len%3D86400000%26docid%3D0&nogvlm=1&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumb nailServer2%3Fapp%3Dblogger%26contentid%3Da384e280 e2ee75c5%26offsetms%3D5000%26itag%3Dw320%26sigh%3D-Fmm5pvd7UBUXTQfsVjn5zIEd98&messagesUrl=video.google.com%2FFlashUiStrings.xlb% 3Fframe%3Dflashstrings%26hl%3Den">
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LagunaBlue
02-10-2009, 04:00 AM
I've actually been a little behind on the blog. Being so close to the point of a test drive I was putting all my time into the build. Sadly I even forgot to take pictures of all the things I had planned but there are still some good shots.<br /><br /><br /><br />It's time to wire everything up. To do this you need some form of conduit from the front to the rear of the car in almost all EV builds since usually batteries and components are not all in one location. I used what is known as Smurf tubing because of the Smurf blue color. It's just a 3/4" plastic flex tubing designed high voltage applications in homes. It's light weight, again flexible, and reasonably priced. I think I paid $30 for 100 ft at Home Depot. I also picked up some orange flex for the low voltage wiring. It's technically the same tubing from what I can tell but the color coding is standard (low voltage = orange, high voltage = blue).<br /><br /><br /><br />In order to connect the rear cells to the BMS system I needed to run 28 wires from the front to the rear of the car. This is to support two BMS voltage modules (11 wires each for cell voltage and 3 for temperature). In addition I ran a 10 gauge solid strand back as well. This gives me a positive 12v line from the DC/DC converter I'll be putting in the trunk to charge the original 12v battery. The DC/DC converter takes the traction pack which in this case is 144v nominal and charges my 12v system essesntially replacing my alternator.<br /><br /><br /><br />Here is that low voltage run.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQyvgQjI/AAAAAAAAAlM/HVpqYrEDJCQ/s1600-h/IMG_1583.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301035017565127218" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQyvgQjI/AAAAAAAAAlM/HVpqYrEDJCQ/s400/IMG_1583.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />Another shot of the uncut wires hanging out of the trunk area.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQz1I0tI/AAAAAAAAAlE/8IN98vuIQ0c/s1600-h/IMG_1584.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301035017857192658" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQz1I0tI/AAAAAAAAAlE/8IN98vuIQ0c/s400/IMG_1584.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br />I installed two runs of the high voltage tubing. Because of the size of the 2/0 traction wiring I could only fit one cable per tubing. I additionlly pulled an 8 guage solid strand wire from the most postive terminal on the front battery pack to connect to the charger. The most negative terminal of the traction pack will be in the rear of the car already so we can attach directly to that terminal later.<br /><br /><br /><br />The installation of the two other tubings was nothing special but thought I'd show how I closed up the tubing. There are connectors you can get for the tubing to run it into junction boxes etc. These at least reduced the opening diamter some. After crimping on the terminal I added a layer of wire loom to protect the exposed portion of the wire.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQpcyzoI/AAAAAAAAAk8/aA2Yt-feKXs/s1600-h/IMG_1585.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301035015070731906" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQpcyzoI/AAAAAAAAAk8/aA2Yt-feKXs/s400/IMG_1585.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next I wrapped the whole thing with electric tape and finished it off by heat shrinking the ends.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQmC8m4I/AAAAAAAAAk0/NJjoXqi6Ukc/s1600-h/IMG_1586.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301035014157015938" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQmC8m4I/AAAAAAAAAk0/NJjoXqi6Ukc/s400/IMG_1586.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><br />Here is a shot of the three flex tubings coming into the trunk secured by some jumbo sized zip ties. You can also see the DC/DC converter setting in place on the right.</div><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQgf-nCI/AAAAAAAAAks/KxRlqSSYO9M/s1600-h/IMG_1587.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301035012668169250" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPQgf-nCI/AAAAAAAAAks/KxRlqSSYO9M/s400/IMG_1587.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><br /><div><br />Here is the installed DC/DC converter. I see a lot of people installing this up front in the car. The thing that bothered me was you can easily see in to the electronics of this thing. Maybe it's moisture resistent but I didn't want to take any chances so I decided to place it in the trunk. It made for some extra work but I feel better about having it here where I know things stay dry. These converters actually come with your standard 110v AC outlet cord attached which may scare some. Internally this AC voltage is converted to DC using some sort of bridge rectifier. When sending it direct DC only half of the rectifier is working but the end result is the same. You can simply cut off the 110v plug and wire it to your traction pack. It doesn't matter which wire is positive and which is negative. Next to the big black high voltage power wire you can see the two smaller 12v output wires. The black wire is ground and runs just to the right where there was a convenient bolt to ground to. The white wire as I mentioned before is ran into the low voltage conduit to the front of the car.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDL5_mnI/AAAAAAAAAkc/_bhrrPGmRd4/s1600-h/IMG_1591.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301034783801842290" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDL5_mnI/AAAAAAAAAkc/_bhrrPGmRd4/s400/IMG_1591.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the 12v + wire coming from the DC/DC converter and guess where I connected it. That's right the original location the alternator use to be connected. This is the small circuit panel under the hood on the driver side of the car.</div><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDYlxW6I/AAAAAAAAAkk/yGdKhjpKtp8/s1600-h/IMG_1589.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301034787206683554" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDYlxW6I/AAAAAAAAAkk/yGdKhjpKtp8/s400/IMG_1589.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Here is the high voltage wiring. This isn't as neat as I hoped for but I was really running out of room and had to place these components close together. The two outside, funny, shiney looking things are the contactors. These are basically giant SPST relays that are designed to handle high voltage and high current. I went with two just for the added fail safe. One contactor closes when the igntition is turned on. The second closes as you depress the accelerator. Additionally there is another low current relay which you can barely see right in the middle of it all which tells the controller when it's ok to run. I plan to add an array of safety features later that will turn one or more of these relays off until all the safety requirements are met. These can be things like the car isn't still plugged in to the wall outlet to controlling the RPM limit of the motor. Towards the bottom is the KLK fuse (white round thing). This is rated for 250 volts and 500 Amps. You'll want to use one of these for every group of battery packs you have. This way if a short happens the fuse will blow and you won't loose your batteries. Last on the bottom left is the giant anderson connector. You can disconnect this to guarantee all high voltage is removed from the system. BEWARE, however, the capacitors in the controller will continue to carry a charge after disconnected.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDB4r1tI/AAAAAAAAAkU/N4V2IfWG6Oc/s1600-h/IMG_1602.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301034781111998162" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDB4r1tI/AAAAAAAAAkU/N4V2IfWG6Oc/s400/IMG_1602.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is a picture on the other side of the controller. The big black box with the 2/0 cable running through the sensor that detects how much current is being used when driving. This is like a MPG gauge and helps you judge how efficiently you're driving. On the far left is the pot box. This is 5k variable resistor which you connect your original throttle cable to. Now the further you press on the original accelerator the faster you go, just like a gas car. The last thing here is a small fuse block. I tapped into the 12v ignition line from under the dash and ran a line up to the front. When you turn on the ignition now it triggers a relay which then supplies voltage to this fuse block. From here I'm running the vacuum pump and the 12v fan that cools the controller.<br /><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDMf4wCI/AAAAAAAAAkM/X3BR6BalEc8/s1600-h/IMG_1603.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301034783960776738" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDMf4wCI/AAAAAAAAAkM/X3BR6BalEc8/s400/IMG_1603.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a final shot of everything wired up and ready to go.</div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDNNrH8I/AAAAAAAAAkE/sBcca_jfgRs/s1600-h/IMG_1601.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301034784152821698" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEPDNNrH8I/AAAAAAAAAkE/sBcca_jfgRs/s400/IMG_1601.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><br /><div>Now it's time to charge it up and have a test drive!</div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-10-2009, 04:00 AM
With the batteries in I knew how much room I had left to work with up front. It was time to build the control board. This board will be nice surface to mount many of the high voltage components to. I ended up using polypropylene (I think 3/8" thick). It's a little more expensive than using some type of wood but is still easy to work with and doesn't have to be sealed and painted later to make it last.<br /><br />Next I have to wonder how I let so many weeds crop up in my yard. Right! I have done nothing but work on this car for several months. Below I'm setting up a straight guide for cutting the material. I made the mistake of using a metal bit in the jigsaw and ended up with goo. The blade got too hot and polypropylene started melting. You can probably stick with the jigsaw and a wood bit but I didn't confirm that. I ended up switch to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Sawzall</span> with a wood blade. This blade has massively aggressive teeth and was able to cut the material quickly without causing any heat and made for a clean cut. However you cut it, the trick is to do it fast before it gets hot.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaK0ZoWnI/AAAAAAAAAmU/Oy1stcBlnFo/s1600-h/IMG_1573.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301047009558944370" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaK0ZoWnI/AAAAAAAAAmU/Oy1stcBlnFo/s400/IMG_1573.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I found this <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">heat sink</span> on <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">eBay</span> for $20. What a deal. It wasn't the exact size I needed but very close. You can buy a ready to go <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">heat sink</span> from Curtis but it's like $300+ or something crazy. <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">EV America</span> sent me a flat piece of aluminum for a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">heat sink</span> which they claim works just fine but I wanted to overdue the cooling on this component since I had the option. I needed to trim off a few of the fins and drill some holes to match the holes already on the controller for a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">heat sink</span>.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKnGcHuI/AAAAAAAAAmM/e8-uaE-TjJM/s1600-h/IMG_1574.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301047005988789986" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKnGcHuI/AAAAAAAAAmM/e8-uaE-TjJM/s400/IMG_1574.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I ended up using the small sheet of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">aluminum</span> they gave me anyways to provide a mounting surface on the top side of the board. Without this the controller would just fall through since the a hole needed to be cut that was large enough to let the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">heat</span> sink pass through. You can also see a very thin piece of sheet metal I used to attach the fan(s) too. I current only am using one fan but installed the option for fan two in case I needed to add a second one later.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKrVKuqI/AAAAAAAAAmE/-28k6oLdwrU/s1600-h/IMG_1575.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301047007124306594" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKrVKuqI/AAAAAAAAAmE/-28k6oLdwrU/s400/IMG_1575.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Did a quick test fit to make sure it all works together nicely before applying the heat compound.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1ybqTFI/AAAAAAAAAls/PqIjHUuPgTo/s1600-h/IMG_1576.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301046648253336658" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1ybqTFI/AAAAAAAAAls/PqIjHUuPgTo/s400/IMG_1576.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This was like being in <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">kindergarten</span> again. Finger painting is great! I'm applying the heat compound. It needs to go on all pieces of connecting metal. In this case that was actually four sides of metal: The Controller, the metal support plate (both sides), and the heat sink itself.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1ueyHxI/AAAAAAAAAlk/EWw7_XPHt88/s1600-h/IMG_1577.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301046647192690450" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1ueyHxI/AAAAAAAAAlk/EWw7_XPHt88/s400/IMG_1577.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I started loosely laying components on the board to get an idea of where things might fit. It's gonna be tight.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1gsXX0I/AAAAAAAAAlc/-RjDGRVlmJ0/s1600-h/IMG_1578.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301046643491561282" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEZ1gsXX0I/AAAAAAAAAlc/-RjDGRVlmJ0/s400/IMG_1578.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div><br />Finally the control board all installed.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKtAVfiI/AAAAAAAAAl8/2snicQH072c/s1600-h/IMG_1579.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301047007573802530" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEaKtAVfiI/AAAAAAAAAl8/2snicQH072c/s400/IMG_1579.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div>Next we need to wire everything up.</div></div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-10-2009, 04:00 AM
<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">OK</span> I've finally got the rear batteries installed. I had to rebuilt this rack a second time or I would have posted this during the front battery install post. I also seem to have lost the picture of the rack by itself so you can really see the mounting points but there are four feet that come off from the sides and I used 5/16" grade 8 bolts to secure it to the trunk. Be careful that the holes are far enough out. I noticed that there are two layers to the metal work here and if you drill just past the sides of the trunk where it dips down you'll enter a cavity that you can't actually get to from the bottom and therefore can't attach the nuts to the bolts. You could use a lag bolt but that has a good chance of just ripped out with the thin metal here. Speaking of, use a nice wide washer on both sides to get a lot of surface area.<br /><br />Here is the first picture that wasn't lost after the batteries are mounted.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEL5UQVILI/AAAAAAAAAj0/-3X1U6Vvb0A/s1600-h/IMG_1592.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301031315709436082" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEL5UQVILI/AAAAAAAAAj0/-3X1U6Vvb0A/s400/IMG_1592.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is a top down view to show the room left over. Ah some storage space you say still....I wish. I've decided to, at least for now, use the jumbo charger inside the car. I'll probably replace it someday with something smaller and gain some room back....we'll see. If you look at the bottom of the picture you'll see some large metal feet that I've added. The charger will bolt to these.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEL5fMNGII/AAAAAAAAAj8/zjsgtf6M3no/s1600-h/IMG_1593.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301031318644922498" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZEL5fMNGII/AAAAAAAAAj8/zjsgtf6M3no/s400/IMG_1593.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is the charger in place with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">BMS</span> wiring all attached. This is kind of a fast forward in time shot really since if you look closely you'll notice I'm already charging as well. You can also see some unprotected yellow and red wires in the left side of the picture. These are the two sets of power wires for the charger (110v, and 220v). I haven't finished installing the final plugs for these so that still needs to be done.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZELjedt2AI/AAAAAAAAAjs/BJC7gN5Vyf8/s1600-h/IMG_1605.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301030940492814338" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SZELjedt2AI/AAAAAAAAAjs/BJC7gN5Vyf8/s400/IMG_1605.JPG" border="0" /></a>
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LagunaBlue
02-10-2009, 06:20 PM
Sorry no video or pictures this time but they are coming! I actually had a few errands to run last night when I got home from work so I took the EV out to put some time on the batteries and get those broke in but mostly just to learn more about the nature of the car. I was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">surprised</span> when I returned home and had put 6.5 miles on just driving around my little town.<br /><br />I'm learning the torque curves a lot better now and this thing can really <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">accelerate</span> if you shift right. I'm becoming more impressed with the performance as the driver gets better.<br /><br />I was having trouble figuring out the remaining capacity on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">BMS</span> system and after talking with Elite it turns out I need to do some rewiring. Apparently this system also tracks the current being charged into the cells and my wiring design didn't take this into account so add that to the list of remaining items.<br /><br />Still to do:<br />- Put my front bumper back on.<br /><br />- Finish wiring the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">BMS</span> system inside the car. It's just sitting there on the console and needs to be mounted. Turns out there is also no way to turn the power off to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">BMS</span> computer or the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">BMS</span> monitor so I will be installing two switches. The monitor only needs to be on if you want to see the output (driving). The computer needs to be on while driving or charging but you could turn it off otherwise.<br /><br />- Build covers for the cells so they are not completely exposed and a potential hazard.<br /><br />- Finish the electronics and wiring for the heater.<br /><br />- Fabricate the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">serpentine</span> pulley for the AC and get that all mounted up.<br /><br />- <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">DMV</span> registration<br /><br />Probably some other little details I'm forgetting but that's the schedule for the time being.<br /><br />I'll be trying to do a video with a quick walk through of the car and components with an inside drive this weekend if time permits.
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LagunaBlue
02-13-2009, 01:22 PM
The days at work have been long when all you want to do is get home and take the EV out for a spin. A couple days ago I went out and drove the car around a bit to get the pack drained down slightly. When I got it home I reset the watt hours remaining and capacity numbers of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">BMS</span>. I charged up and it showed about 6<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">kwh</span>. Last night I then took the car again and sure enough both those numbers drop when driving so this will, for now, be my fuel gauge. Eventually I'll take this data and convert it so that my original fuel gauge works as well but that's low on the priority list right now.<br /><br />The drive last night was by far the best. I got the front bumper back on and what a difference a little wind <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">resistance</span> makes. I went for a total of 16.2 miles of mixed city and hwy type driving. I got the car to 65 mph and there was plenty of power to spare. One day I'll test out the top speed when I get time and I'm on a nice open stretch.<br /><br />I was also pretty hard on the throttle last night trying to get a good feel of what the car can do. I ended up using about 6<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">kWh</span>. So if I drive really bad I'm still looking at a 60 mile range. I also calculated 375 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Wh</span>/mile. Considering the lead foot this is really good. I'll be trying a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">conservative</span> drive over the weekend hopefully and try to estimate my best range as well.<br /><br />Things are really going well! So that was drives three and four. The more is another <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dimwRa6XuXc">video of the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">walk through</span></a>. Still plan on getting the inside car ride and again hopefully this weekend I can get my neighbor to film that so I can focus on driving.<br /><br />Have something else you want video of or explained better? Just add a comment and I'll see what I can do.
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LagunaBlue
02-16-2009, 02:20 PM
I went out for <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZqf-UgfEhk">another drive </a>and this time with my neighbor so he could film while driving. The drive was 22.1 miles round trip. The fastest I took the car was ~70 mph but there was more available so we'll have to see what top speed is one of these days. I did a lot of driving at 65-70 when possible and 45-55 when traffic was slow. Overall I consumed a bit over 7000 Wh for an average of 316.74 Wh/mile. I really need to test this while trying to average 55 mph and taking it easy to see what the best is.<br /><br />Things still look good even driving at these speeds though. My total pack capacity is 23040 Wh. If I try not to go below 80 DOD that gives me 18432 Wh. If we divide that by 7500Wh to play it safe we get 2.4576. Then multiply that by the 22.1 miles we got gives us a range of 54.3 miles driving at 65 in the hills.<br /><br />My next long test I believe will be out to my Uncle Duane's house. It's about 30-35 miles away and completely flat ground. Maybe 6 to 10 stop signs along the way so I plan to drive it at 55 mph the whole way and see how the efficiency looks.
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LagunaBlue
02-20-2009, 04:20 PM
I made another long trip 26+ miles but it hasn't been all fun. I'm still working on a good cell balancing solution and now I've realized I have some charging issues.<br /><br />I noticed that when I try to crank up my charging amps (above 6 or 7 amps) the BMS starts freaking out and misreporting cell voltages. Many just go to zero and the BMS triggers for the charger to shutdown.Two things will fix this. First, remove the serial cable from the charger to the BMS. I can turn my amps up to max and the BMS happily reports all cell voltages but of course I now have no protection from over voltage and other alerts. The charger will only charge based off full voltage. The second thing that got it working was completely removing the charger from the trunk and setting it on the garage floor. Now I can leave the serial cable plugged in and it all works fine. Put it all back in the trunk and it's crazytown. It seems I'm getting some kind of EMI going through the serial cable to the BMS which is causing problems but not sure why only in the car.<br /><br />I didn't notice any of this before because I wanted to start out charging the pack at low levels. I need to be able to charge at much higher rates when making long trips (like going to work) or I might have to sleep over. Oh well all part of being the the few first to do something like this.
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LagunaBlue
02-23-2009, 12:00 AM
I designed the new computer to monitor the temperature of the motor controller but being in a hurry to drive I didn't make and hookup this sensor until now. After each short drive I keep checking the controller and at least in the winter so far heat is no concern at all. I'm only seeing a few degrees increase in temperature.<br /><br />Either way it'll be nice to see this temperature while driving so I decided to finish that up.<br />I used a hobby servo extension cable for the wiring. You can depress the little tabs and remove the connectors from the housing.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInkfmBG3I/AAAAAAAAAno/F3J9V8Qz0eQ/s1600-h/IMG_1614.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846818905594738" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInkfmBG3I/AAAAAAAAAno/F3J9V8Qz0eQ/s400/IMG_1614.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Note the position of the wires. It's not the same as the original order on the cable. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">LM</span>34 temperature <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">IC</span> from left to right is +, signal, -. Use three small pieces of shrink tubing to protect the terminals and keep them from shorting out on each other.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInjvBZW7I/AAAAAAAAAng/g78cDSyUed8/s1600-h/IMG_1616.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846805867092914" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInjvBZW7I/AAAAAAAAAng/g78cDSyUed8/s400/IMG_1616.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Next I wrapped all three connection in one larger piece of shrink tubing.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInjKNwaLI/AAAAAAAAAnY/ZkO0epejXC0/s1600-h/IMG_1620.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846795986823346" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInjKNwaLI/AAAAAAAAAnY/ZkO0epejXC0/s400/IMG_1620.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Now to make a housing for this sensor. We want to use something that will conduct and transfer heat quickly so that we can see changes to the temperature quickly. I'm using a small aluminum tubing that I cut a 1" long piece from. The bolt and nut are used to reinforce walls on half of the tube while shaping the other half.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIniukBcHI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/LCuLb-3uA7o/s1600-h/IMG_1623.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846788564021362" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIniukBcHI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/LCuLb-3uA7o/s400/IMG_1623.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After pounding the unprotected half with a hammer you can a nice flat piece that we can drill into for mounting the sensor somewhere.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInRjJthUI/AAAAAAAAAnA/55WWrlil0bE/s1600-h/IMG_1625.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846493443097922" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInRjJthUI/AAAAAAAAAnA/55WWrlil0bE/s400/IMG_1625.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A little <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">JB</span> Weld to hold the sensor in place. Shove the sensor to the far end so that it contacts the metal to pick up the heat well although the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">JB</span> Weld does a fair job at heat transfer from what I've noticed.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInROoOYjI/AAAAAAAAAm4/b1cC9-3ILaE/s1600-h/IMG_1626.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846487933936178" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInROoOYjI/AAAAAAAAAm4/b1cC9-3ILaE/s400/IMG_1626.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>Here is the final sensor hooked up and ready to be mounted.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInyZLpdiI/AAAAAAAAAnw/_mkxo85kqQ8/s1600-h/IMG_1627.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305847057702549026" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInyZLpdiI/AAAAAAAAAnw/_mkxo85kqQ8/s400/IMG_1627.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div><br />I used a self tapping screw and mounting the sensor on to the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">heat sink</span> of the controller.</div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInQPbS6VI/AAAAAAAAAmo/Zbtw4pScMR8/s1600-h/IMG_1628.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846470968273234" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInQPbS6VI/AAAAAAAAAmo/Zbtw4pScMR8/s400/IMG_1628.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />This is temporary as I'm still not sure exactly what I want or need mounted in the car. This little LCD screen is showing the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">RPM</span> from the computer, the temperature of the motor and the temperature of the controller. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">RPM</span> are not needed since the dash has that implemented already. Eventually I'll probably use the microprocessor to determine which of the two is hottest relative to its maximum temperature (which I also am outputting here on the screen for reference) and use the dash temperature gauge to represent that temperature. This way it won't matter which of the two is hot, if you see the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">gauge</span> getting too high, something is too hot and that's all that matters.<br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInQAitqGI/AAAAAAAAAmg/lgCRSnW9jXI/s1600-h/IMG_1629.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305846466972854370" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaInQAitqGI/AAAAAAAAAmg/lgCRSnW9jXI/s400/IMG_1629.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div> </div><div>After my first test drive I realized I did something wrong. When driving the temperatures tend to bounce around a little and unless you let off the throttle it's hard to tell the read temp. I didn't run shielded wire from the sensors to the computer. I'll need to pull the front batteries out when I do the AC so I'll rerun those wires at that time.</div></div></div></div>
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LagunaBlue
02-23-2009, 04:00 AM
Now that the charging is working correctly I was feeling good and decided to finish up the plug. Remember those two circles I cut out for the cooling fans on the controller <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">heat sink</span>? Turns out they are just want I needed. I marked out the three bolt holes. Then I measured the thinner diameter of the plugged and plasma cut that out of the center.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsR7aQw8I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/2GLwegG5YKE/s1600-h/IMG_1679.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305851997513106370" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsR7aQw8I/AAAAAAAAAoQ/2GLwegG5YKE/s400/IMG_1679.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A nice and tight fit. The other side of the plug will come in from the other side and sandwich the plate. I used a 4 prong twist lock 220v 30 amp plug. It's only hooked to the 220 side of the charger. The 110 plug is just laying in the trunk. It won't be used much if at all but is there in case that's all I can get.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRvu5y3I/AAAAAAAAAoI/ulZYWEGy0C0/s1600-h/IMG_1680.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305851994378455922" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRvu5y3I/AAAAAAAAAoI/ulZYWEGy0C0/s400/IMG_1680.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />A few bolts and the plug was done. Looks pretty cool. When I get time that sticker will be changed or modified just for fun. I think "Premium Electrons Only" will suit this car better now don't you?<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRC4zbiI/AAAAAAAAAoA/gT0H-rXJGP8/s1600-h/IMG_1681.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305851982340386338" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRC4zbiI/AAAAAAAAAoA/gT0H-rXJGP8/s400/IMG_1681.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Fill it up! Charging will be quick and easy now.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRERnlyI/AAAAAAAAAn4/YvTpoV0FhRk/s1600-h/IMG_1682.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5305851982712903458" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SaIsRERnlyI/AAAAAAAAAn4/YvTpoV0FhRk/s400/IMG_1682.JPG" border="0" /></a>
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LagunaBlue
03-16-2009, 04:20 PM
It's been awhile since the last update but I've been busy on the next step in the project which is the cell <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">balancers</span> for the lithium cells. I wasn't sure what I was going to do for balancing as anything on the market is not cheap. Dimitri, a buddy of mine from Florida who is working on his second conversion, ask what my plans were for balancing, but I had none. He had found a few schematics of shunting <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">balancers</span> that people had designed. I messed around with the schematics in prototypes and although a good stepping stone they didn't work the way I wanted so I began designing my own circuit.<br /><br />The cells are charged in series and viewed to the charger as one large cell. The charger has no way of equalizing the SOC (state of charge) for each individual cell. I've designed a simple cell <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">balancer</span> that takes advantage of the nature of lithium during charging. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">LiFePo</span>4 cells are 3.2v nominal and like other lithium technology stay right around this nominal voltage until the end of the charging cycle when they climb in voltage very quickly. The cell <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">balancer</span> is designed to start shunting energy at 3.6 volts that would otherwise be going into the cell. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">balancer</span> shunts 1.5 amps at 3.6v and goes up from there as the voltage increases. Let's say you are charging your pack at 10 amps, then each cell is receiving 10 amps. If a cell reaches 3.6v 1.5 amps of this energy is shunted and the cell is now only receiving 8.5 amps. The remaining cells which are below 3.6v still receive the full 10 amps which allows them to catch up over time and perhaps multiple charges. The lower the overall charging rate then the higher percentage of the energy can be shunted allowing for a complete cell balance in one charge. For example if you can limit your charge to 1.5 - 2.0 amps you can simply leave the charger on and wait for all <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">balancers</span> to indicate they are shunting and therefore the pack is now balanced.<br /><br />Here is a picture of a completed cell <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">balancer</span>. They simply need to be connected to each cell only. There is no master unit or mess of wires to tie them all together. I named them Volt <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Blocher</span>. My my last name <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Blocher</span> (pronounced Blocker) and the fact they will keep the voltages down by shunting away the energy.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GpdrknjI/AAAAAAAAApQ/i53_Sa0cEfU/s1600-h/IMG_1729.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313621551011372594" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GpdrknjI/AAAAAAAAApQ/i53_Sa0cEfU/s400/IMG_1729.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of them installed in the car. I needed to make 45 units for my setup. My wife helped out on the assembly line and really saved me some time.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3Gpf1I1MI/AAAAAAAAApI/a7vaSln2F7U/s1600-h/IMG_1748.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313621551588365506" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3Gpf1I1MI/AAAAAAAAApI/a7vaSln2F7U/s400/IMG_1748.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />Here is a picture of the units in action. In the closer four units you can see that three of the four units are shunting energy indicated by the red LED. At this point the picture was taken only about 6 or so of the 45 units were in this state meaning the remaining cells needed to catch up.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GogxJjDI/AAAAAAAAApA/2TwKo964QjI/s1600-h/IMG_1751.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313621534660201522" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GogxJjDI/AAAAAAAAApA/2TwKo964QjI/s400/IMG_1751.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br />This looks much cooler in person but thought I'd add a shot with most of the cells now shunting. Lots of red and green lights. After about three hours of charging I had just four cells remaining that weren't balanced. I'm going to continue to charge at a slow rate and see how long it takes to bring them level with the others.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GogXUEzI/AAAAAAAAAo4/Pst83BjPTrY/s1600-h/IMG_1752.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5313621534551839538" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sb3GogXUEzI/AAAAAAAAAo4/Pst83BjPTrY/s400/IMG_1752.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div>There will soon be two others using the Volt <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Blocher</span> units. <a href="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/mazda-e-protege5-conversion-26864.html">Dimitri</a> and <a href="http://eprotege.blogspot.com/">Jim</a> have ordered their <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">DIY</span> kits and will hopefully have them up and running soon. </div><div> </div><div></div><div>The kit consists of the PCB (printed circuit board), all electrical components, heat sink, schematic for assembly and instructions. The kit does not include wiring, terminals or mounting system other than the provide four holes in the board. I figured it would be better to allow the builder to decide how long they want the wires to be, what type of connectors to use (some may want an alligator clip for quick connect/disconnect), and how they want to mount them can vary as well. The only consideration for mounting is that the bottom of circuit board is not allowed to touch metal which will short out the unit. I used <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">Velcro</span> on the bottom to protect the circuit and allow for an easy way to attach/remove them as needed.</div><div></div><div> </div><div>I'm asking $6 per unit for the basic kit plus shipping. This is considerably cheaper than anything out there you can buy and for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">DIYer</span> looking to save some money and not have to design something from scratch I think this is the best solution.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-6294760241043210179?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
03-21-2009, 11:50 PM
I had some time to spare this weekend waiting for parts to come in and nothing major to get done so thought I'd take it for another drive. I first went down to Prime Shine Express and drove it through the car wash. Poor thing hasn't had a bath in at least 8 months. Next I headed off in the direction to work and drove until I had travelled a total of 20 miles. I pulled over and jotted down my exact miles and energy consumption. Since there is a lot of up hill on the way to work I wanted to break up the two directions for comparison. I headed back home and took a bit of a scenic route, including a stop at the store for milk, to get as close to 40 miles as possible just for a nice round number.<br /><br />On this trip I tried to keep my average speed closer to 55mph instead of 65mph just to see if I could notice the energy usage difference. I noticed my amp gauge staying around 125 amps instead of the 150 or so I saw at 65mph. After I arrived back at home I plugged it in and did the math. I averaged 345.18 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">wh</span>/mile for the 20 mile trip up the hill and coming home I averaged 242.57 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">wh</span>/mile. My overall overall average for the 40 mile trip was 293.23 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">wh</span>/mile. This is considerably better than the 350 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">wh</span>/mile average from my "Inside Drive" video doing 65-70mph most of the way. I'll continue to test things to improve this number over time like moving away from the Z rated tires, perhaps a belly pan or anything to improve rolling <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">resistance</span> and aerodynamics.<br /><br />I used roughly 50% of my pack during the trip in the hills at 55 mph. At least I know even after my pack has aged and lost some capacity I'll still easily make it the 35 mile trip to work where I can recharge.<br /><br />Speaking of recharging at work I just got word that everything is go on the plug getting installed and the job is suppose to start next week with a two to three week time frame. Most of the time is waiting on some parts, I think the pedestal with all the plugs. I'll get some pictures as the work progresses on that too. Once the plug is in I'll be ready to start commuting with the car. There are of course things left to do but they will be done here and there when I fell like it now, no more rushing!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5650402129377373845?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-01-2009, 11:53 PM
I've been debating mounting this monitor for the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">BMS</span> for some time. First I wasn't sure if I'd keep it connected all the time or not. The original plan was to monitor the serial I/O going to it and then take that data and turn things like the capacity into something for my fuel gauge. I also wasn't sure if I'd even stick with this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">BMS</span> system or replace it with something better. After looking around I'm just not excited about any of the other <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">BMS</span> systems, especially not for the cost of something that does more. Now that I've added my own cell <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">balancers</span> the system I think is going to meet my needs perfectly.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">OK,</span> so for the first time I got so caught up in trying to figure out the best way to do this and make it look clean that I forgot to take pictures of the process. Sorry all.<br /><br />I used 1/4" plywood and created frame about an 1/16" wider on each side, so 1/8" wider/taller total. This is to allow room for the monitor to still fit after wrapping the foam and leather material around the sides. The frame is shorter on one side so the monitor tilts towards the driver and to compensate for the curving dash. The front side is easy since it's all squared up, but the backside took a few attempts to get the curves just right to match the dash.<br /><br />After the frame was complete I took and wrapped the outside with a very thin foam using a spray adhesive to attach it. Next I wrapped it with a synthetic black leather material to try and somewhat match the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">natural</span> look of the car.<br /><br />Finally I screwed some L shape brackets into the frame (two on each side) and finally screwed the frame into the dash. This part killed me and was probably the biggest delay factor. I really didn't want to screw anything into my dash!<br /><br />The wires are ran behind trim/panels up in behind the dash poke out through a small hole I made just above the radio and below the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">BMS</span> monitor.<br /><br />Here is a picture of the final product from the driver seat.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SdQwXWG-hjI/AAAAAAAAApY/zlElLLFpC7M/s1600-h/IMG_1791.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319930237461366322" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SdQwXWG-hjI/AAAAAAAAApY/zlElLLFpC7M/s400/IMG_1791.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Another shot from the passenger seat. You can see a little better here how the back needed to match the contour of the dash. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with the results.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SdQwXcT-a0I/AAAAAAAAApg/R7iA_iUNiMY/s1600-h/IMG_1792.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319930239126498114" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SdQwXcT-a0I/AAAAAAAAApg/R7iA_iUNiMY/s400/IMG_1792.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Of course after completing the install I had to take it for a spin. It was very nice having this information at quick glance and is going to really help my driving to easily see the amp loads. This quick little spin puts me up to about 280 miles so far. I keep checking at work and things are moving along on the plug install. Looks like it was a pretty big job to get power from the main panel out to the parking spots. It's scheduled to be finished this Friday so I might be driving to work finally as soon as next week. If not, it shouldn't be much longer. I can't wait!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-4942784168367218154?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-07-2009, 09:12 PM
Yesterday the plug was installed and everything was in place for my first run to work today. I was a bit nervous but everything couldn't have went better.<br /><br />I left 30 minutes earlier than normal to make sure I got the spot next to the charging station. They haven't marked it off yet and installed the sign so I'll have get there early for a few days or so. It's not an issue with my company as I think everybody knows I've done the conversion but we share the parking with surrounding companies as well and it would be hard to go door to door tracking down the owner of the vehicle to ask them to move it. :)<br /><br />It looks like I used about 60% of my pack on the 35 mile drive to work. Sounds bad, but considering the 2,000 ft elevation climb over the journey it's about what I expected. It also appears I used about 35% of the pack coming home. I drove a lot faster on the way home since I had the downhill advantage so I could lower than number if I tried. I'll keep tracking the numbers, but it doesn't appear I'd want to risk the round trip without at least a little time on the charger.<br /><br />Here is the pedestal / charging station that work installed for me. A big thanks to Front Porch and those involved getting this taken care of for me.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sdv4CZunWqI/AAAAAAAAApw/EO1VdH8UuTw/s1600-h/IMG_1827.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322120104818203298" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sdv4CZunWqI/AAAAAAAAApw/EO1VdH8UuTw/s400/IMG_1827.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />Here is another shot of the car charging at work.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sdv4CeeRo1I/AAAAAAAAApo/_9LuKbiJR8c/s1600-h/IMG_1828.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5322120106091848530" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/Sdv4CeeRo1I/AAAAAAAAApo/_9LuKbiJR8c/s400/IMG_1828.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I did run into a little issue when I first got there and plugged in. Within a minute or the so the car quit charging. Turns out there was only a 20 amp breaker installed and it wasn't enough. After talking to the electrician he installed a 20 amp breaker because the plug style I requested was only rated for 20 amps. An error on my part, but he came out immediately and upgraded the breaker and plug style to 50 amps. I had to change the plug styles on my side too and then it was up and charging. I still need to keep track of how long it takes charging at work and at home as well as the energy required to start calculating energy costs.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3504674132027171787?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-08-2009, 08:30 PM
Today's second trip to work brought my total miles over 500 now. A small milestone, but one none the less.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5174910288251508255?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-08-2009, 08:30 PM
I think this part scares me the most of the whole process. I just can't find good information on what to expect here.<br /><br />I went to DMV today and asked what I need to do in order to change the registration from Gas to Electric. After they did some research, they gave me the phone number to BAR (Bureau of Automobile Repair) stating that I need to get an inspection from them first and then come back.<br /><br />After being on hold for 30 minutes I spoke with a nice gentleman who informed me I called the wrong number and I needed to call the BAR referee instead. I received that number and made another call. It turns out I can go to Modesto Junior College which is within battery range for a round trip! I'm so glad I don't need to tow it, especially if I don't pass and need to return.<br /><br />I asked the guy on the phone now what was involved so that I could make sure the car was ready, sadly he didn't know. I have an appointment in two days so we'll see what happens.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-7153205423695222635?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-10-2009, 05:33 PM
Today I had the appointment with the BAR referee. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">DMV</span> required me to get a certificate stating that the car had been converted from gas to pure electric.<br /><br />They asked me a lot of questions before and after seeing the car. I had to point our the batteries, motor, etc. State which emissions pieces I had removed (which was everything). It almost seemed they were trying to see if I even knew what I was talking about or catch me in some type of lie for why I converted it. They probably get a lot of people trying to pull one over on them to pass smog.<br /><br />After the vehicle inspection they went to the computer and started going through a bunch menus. Then they showed me a huge list of all the items my car is now exempt from. The information was electronically sent to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">DMV</span>, but they also gave me a physical paper to take back when finishing the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">DMV</span> paperwork.<br /><br />That was it. No crazy safety inspections or anything like that. Just a quick visual over view of the top side under the hood. Next step, back to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">DMV</span>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3004055765382522801?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-14-2009, 02:12 PM
I don't even know how to start this entry I'm so frustrated and humored at the same time. I headed back down to DMV with my BAR cert. First I'm told sorry, we can't change anything without the title. What? Nobody said this last time I was in here. So I just tell them I'll pay for a new one as if though I lost it. After an hour of waiting and paperwork to fill out they tell me they have change my car to Type Q. I couldn't remember off hand what Q was, but I told her it's suppose to be Type E. She tells me she tried E and it didn't work, but Q worked so she used that. WTF? So I asked her what Q meant, and this part tickles me. She says, "I don't know, but my supervisor said to try either E or Q and the computer didn't allow E but allowed Q so it must be correct". UGH<br /><br />I leave because I don't know off hand what Q is. After getting back to work I find out they made my car a Hybrid! So I headed back down for trip three to the DMV. Now the two ladies that helped me are out to lunch and I'm told they have to help me again....so I wait. After they returned I explained what Q meant. Now they need a manager to unlock my records because only one change per 72 hours is allowed. They spent a fair amount of time digging through menus and trying different options but couldn't get the computer to take Type E.<br /><br />Finally I asked if they have entered in the data from the BAR cert since there is a DMV ID# on there and the BAR ref told me they needed to input that information into the computer. Well it turns out this needs to be entered into the smog section which will not show up until smog is due for the car. Yeah, it just kept getting better.<br /><br />They wrote down everything they had learned on a paper so that when I come back in a month they will know where to start. Luckily the registration is due in a month because the BAR cert is only good for 60 days!<br /><br />I'm hoping by documenting all of this I can save time for others in California who need to go through this process. I'll keep you posted.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-6734989902185928440?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-15-2009, 01:22 PM
<div>It's official, the charging station is complete. I now have a reserved spot and don't need to come in early or put cones out when I leave for lunch. Woohoo!</div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SeYO77TNmsI/AAAAAAAAAp4/lfJ87KKiV3Y/s1600-h/IMG_1849%5B2%5D.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324960032105536194" style="WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SeYO77TNmsI/AAAAAAAAAp4/lfJ87KKiV3Y/s400/IMG_1849%5B2%5D.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-1313686875311828155?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-18-2009, 01:00 PM
On the way to work on Friday I hit 1000 miles! It's amazing how quickly the miles are adding up now that I'm driving to work each day.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-4684060150338419835?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-03-2009, 11:32 PM
On Saturday I put all my gas related parts up for sale on C<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">raigs L</span>ist. <a href="http://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/1151313984.html">http://modesto.craigslist.org/pts/1151313984.html</a><br /><br />Here are the major items up for sale but there are a lot of little pieces I don't need but didn't want to list.<br /><br />F20 Engine, Converter, Manifold, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">ECM</span>, Radiator with both fans, Intake box with filter, Alternator, Muffler Set, Heater Core, Fuel tank with Pump.<br /><br />The muffler set went today. Hopefully the parts keep on selling to help recoup some of the conversion cost.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3685486098309875914?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-04-2009, 03:50 PM
I found this inside footage of Hitler and his current delays on his Tesla. Enjoy :)<br /><object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ra7-1Wx4exc&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Ra7-1Wx4exc&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&feature=player_embedded&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-2401591612659287389?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-06-2009, 09:10 PM
I still hadn't aligned the car after the conversion and I knew the weight changed plenty so it needed to get done. I finally made an appointment and took it in yesterday. My biggest concern was having somebody drive it, so I made sure to explain to the guy I was checking in with what needed to be done. It's nothing hard, but a few tricks that your average guy would think the car was broke when it didn't turn over :)<br /><br />Long story short, Honda didn't get much work done that morning. I had about 15 of their employees looking at the car and asking questions. It was great to hear from all these guys how clean the job was and how much they liked it. There were a ton of questions from them and it was great to be able to show some people that this kind of thing IS possible despite their beliefs. I also found it interesting that they were impressed with a car that could go 80 miles on a charge. The typical reply was, "hey that's all I'd need to get to work and back".<br /><br />Towards the end of the actual work the mechanic brought me back to explain something on the alignment. He said because of the weight difference in the front the caster couldn't be brought back into specs on the front, but it was very close. I asked if shifting more cells to the rear (which was something I was thinking of doing down the road) would help and he said no. The rear settings were maxed out on camber and adding more weight to the rear would put it outside the range as well so things will just remain as they are. It definitely makes me glad I went the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">LiFePO</span>4 route, any amount of lead that could get me to work would kill my little car.<br /><br />The icing on the cake for the day was I got the employee discount rate for the work since I made <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">their </span>day by bringing the car in. They all knew me by name now and kept thanking me. It was a great day but my wife couldn't understand why it took two and half hours until I explained the story. :)<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3413640254048594860?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-15-2009, 01:43 AM
<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">OK</span>, so maybe I'm not harnessing the power of the lighting bolt, but the sun works well too. I've been patiently waiting as <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Acro</span> Electric has been installing the solar system for the house, and more importantly the power to charge the car as well!<br /><br />I kept climbing up on the roof when I'd get home from work to see what they had accomplished.<br /><br />Day1:<br />Here is a picture of some of the anchor bolts installed for one of the two groups of panels.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPTqA6HI/AAAAAAAAAro/Tnltt3wmInc/s1600-h/Picture+001.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897207222626418" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPTqA6HI/AAAAAAAAAro/Tnltt3wmInc/s400/Picture+001.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here is a close-up of one. You see all the black caulking that goes into the drilled hole. Additionally the black piece of flashing will be over the bolt and hole with the higher shingle laid over this as well see later. This flashing allows most, if not all, of the water never even get near the hole.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqdInw_4I/AAAAAAAAArw/eWmawNqGjfY/s1600-h/Picture+002.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897444778573698" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqdInw_4I/AAAAAAAAArw/eWmawNqGjfY/s400/Picture+002.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Day2:<br />Here is the south facing group of rails installed. You can now see how each anchor is covered by the flashing and slide under the higher shingle.<br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPAB9osI/AAAAAAAAArY/zccSoPz2Ixg/s1600-h/Picture+003.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897201954366146" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPAB9osI/AAAAAAAAArY/zccSoPz2Ixg/s400/Picture+003.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Here is a picture of the west facing group. I didn't have much south facing roof space so half of the panels went here.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPKRmAeI/AAAAAAAAArQ/cBpKw6OVYLw/s1600-h/Picture+004.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897204704281058" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqPKRmAeI/AAAAAAAAArQ/cBpKw6OVYLw/s400/Picture+004.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Day3:</div><div>The panels and inverters are brought in for installation. The panels are from <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">SunPower</span> model <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">SPR</span>-225-<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">BLK</span>-U. They are small and rated for 225 watts a piece, which is quite a bit especially for their size. There are two inverters <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">SPR</span>-3000m and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">SPR</span>-4000m. As you've probably guessed they are rated for 3k watts and 4k watts respectively. There are 28 panels total for a DC/<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">STC</span> rating of 6.3kW. This is fancy rating they give to "lab conditions" and you won't see these numbers in the real world. Therefore another rating is given (<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">CEC</span>/<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">CSI</span>) which is a "real world" rating of 5.56kW. The physical roof footprint is 393 sq.ft.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG-jGR0I/AAAAAAAAArI/S7Ub21KvYuU/s1600-h/Picture+007.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897064117520194" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG-jGR0I/AAAAAAAAArI/S7Ub21KvYuU/s400/Picture+007.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Here is the south roof again with the panels installed. They are a nice solid black color, you can't see the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-error">PV</span> cells like you can with the other panels.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG3oq9XI/AAAAAAAAArA/vFnTzvKclkE/s1600-h/Picture+008.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897062261847410" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG3oq9XI/AAAAAAAAArA/vFnTzvKclkE/s400/Picture+008.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>The west facing group.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG0wKEeI/AAAAAAAAAq4/iKObYU0blDk/s1600-h/Picture+009.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897061487940066" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqG0wKEeI/AAAAAAAAAq4/iKObYU0blDk/s400/Picture+009.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Here is the west facing group again with some perspective of how little roof space was <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">needed</span> for half (3.15kW) of panels. I could really add a lot more if I need to.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqGrzsMCI/AAAAAAAAAqw/FpWhU7xo2pM/s1600-h/Picture+010.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897059086839842" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqGrzsMCI/AAAAAAAAAqw/FpWhU7xo2pM/s400/Picture+010.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Day 4 and 5:</div><div>The last couple days was doing all the wiring and finishing touches on the system.</div><div>Here are the two inverters mounted in my garage. You can also see the new 220v plug I had them install while they were at it for the car charger. I was running a long, and rather big, cable across my garage before.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqGgTAL3I/AAAAAAAAAqo/w7WGSP5xH9E/s1600-h/Picture+011.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5335897055996948338" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SgzqGgTAL3I/AAAAAAAAAqo/w7WGSP5xH9E/s400/Picture+011.jpg" /></a></div><div></div><div>Today was the first day they got to fully operate over the entire time frame of sun light and they produced 40kW. I'm pretty sure as summer really kicks in we'll get even more out of them.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='http://res1.blogblog.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-2096816589812295645?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-21-2009, 06:40 PM
Today I broke 2500 miles on electric, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">woohoo</span>! In general things have been really smooth with the build and I'm overall very happy. I'm really pleased with the lithium cells and the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">balancers</span> I built. Hopefully the cells just keep us moving for many many years :)<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">OK</span>, so there is one item I'm not completely happy with. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">BMS</span> from TS has some really great features all wrapped into one system. Many piece together things like amp meter, fuel gauge, etc. It was nice to find it all in one package, but this thing has been far from reliable.<br /><br />You may recall my initial problems with charging where the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">BMS</span> would freak out and start reporting cells at low voltages and such if the charger was at high amps.<br /><br />The next thing I noticed was two cells that seemed to be sagging pretty bad under load. I placed a volt meter on them and they weren't sagging at all like the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">BMS</span> reported. There are 5 modules, up to 10 cells connect to each. I switched around two of the modules and then I started getting two different cells (same module) that were reporting sag. I'm still waiting on a replacement from Elite Power Solutions. The first "replacement" didn't work at all and I had to send that one back.<br /><br />I've also had a couple of <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">occurrences</span> where the charger just stops during the charge and I couldn't figure out why. I was at first assuming it was getting a little hot, so I started opening the trunk (until I get time to vent the trunk better). This seemed to fix it for a bit, but it started happening again. While driving the other day, the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">BMS</span> alarm went off indicating one cell was about one volt lower than it really was (it immediately jumps back up to normal voltage). This has happened a couple of times now. During charging, any low voltage indication will terminate charging, so again the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">BMS</span> shows its quality.<br /><br />I have some plans to implement my own high and low voltage protection, and still use this <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">BMS</span> for the rest of it's functionality. This way if it blimps, it doesn't matter except for viewing purposes.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5369113080297764290?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-26-2009, 03:20 PM
I realized when talking to a guy about my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">DMV</span> experience that I hadn't posted the fourth, and I sure hope final trip to <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">DMV</span> for registration to Electric.<br /><br />As you recall from trips two and three, I was told to come back when the registration was due. This would allow them to open the smog section in their computers so they could input the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">DMV</span> ID number on the BAR cert and finally change the MP field from G to E.<br /><br />Well, as I'm sure you can guess, the smog section still couldn't come up. They tried this and that, talking amongst themselves and about 30 minutes later...nothing. So the lady says, "Well your registration is due, would you like to pay and maybe that will open up the smog section?" What do I have to loose, I'm thinking. I pay and the computer spits out the new registration paperwork. Sure enough, the MP section is already set to E!<br /><br />So, in hind sight I'm thinking their system has changed a bit. The BAR referee computer must now directly change type to avoid the whole <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">DMV</span> confusion process. I think if I would have waited for the due notice to come in the mail, I could have paid it online and received the updated E <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">registration</span> without any of the headaches I went through.<br /><br />I have had a few people telling me that E means something else, or doesn't exist, etc. So I'm really not 100% sure if this is done, and won't know for two years when the smog would be due again. I think I'm good, but you never know with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">DMV</span>. :)<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-4074677239736208876?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
05-29-2009, 01:11 PM
I've been waiting some time to post what I feared would be the case from this company, but I think it's time to let as many people know as possible.<br /><br />As you're aware for those following along I've had a few, to say the least, issues with the BMS system I purchased from Elite Power Solutions. I've emailed them quite a few times along the way but never really got a fix to anything and it always resulted in me figuring out a work around to make the system happy.<br /><br />Recently, I thought I had two bad cells. It turns out, again, the BMS was misreporting these cell voltages, but only under load (they show fine at standing voltage, but drop quicker in voltage on under load than they really are). Here is the email transaction. It seems to start off fine, but after well over a month, I just feel like I'm getting the run around.<br /><br />April 15, 2009 6:37:03 PM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">Hey Jennifer,<br /><br />I noticed yesterday two of my cells are experiencing excessive voltage sag under load. I looked at the discharge graph for these cells at 1C and all of my cells seem to match this. They are typically a little under 3.2v @ 1C. The other two cells are at about 2.9v. At 3C the problem is much more noticable. My average cell voltage is 3.0v or so and the two bad cells are usually around 2.5-2.6v. These numbers were taken at full charge to the pack and I've only got about 15 cycles on the pack.<br /><br />The serial numbers for the two cells are:<br />080730-EDITED<br />080730-EDITED<br /><br />From my understanding this is a sign of a weak or failing cells so I'm guessing I should get them replaced before they leave me stranded.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br />April 15, 2009 10:46:47 PM<br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Brian,<br /><br />Voltage is sag is due to internal resistance of battery cell. Are the resting voltage of the cells OK? The internal resistance of these two cells are 0.31 and 0.41 resspectively (most of the cells have resistance between 0.3 to 0.44mohm), which are below our control limit of <1 mOhm. Are the reading coming off from BMS reading? Is it possible you physically verify using a voltage meter? <br /><br />I recommend you continue to use them and monitor the performance of these cells. If you fail for whatever reason we can replace them.<br /> Regards,<br />Jennifer Wenren</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span><br />April 18, 2009 10:12:10 AM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">Hey Jennifer<br /><br />I had some time to test the cell voltages under load with my multimeter. There was about .01 voltage variation at rest. It was hard to see the worst case while driving but I noticed as much as .15 voltage difference so it looks like the computer and not the cells. Both cells that are reporting low are on the same module. Is there a way to adjust each cell in the module or does the module need to be replaced to fix this?<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br />April 18, 2009 11:16:57 AM<br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">Hi Brian,<br /><br />There is a voltage adjustment knob at the cornder of the voltage module if you want to fine tune it. I do not think it is defective.<br /><br />Regards,<br />Jennifer Wenren</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span><br />April 29, 2009 6:04:28 PM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">I've tried fine tuning the module, but it is of course changing all the cells voltages. The module was Address 0,0 and cells 5 and 9 were the two showing low under load. It turns out these two cells are also showing the highest while charging. I swapped modules with 0,1 and now cells 5 and 9 are fine but 15 and 19 now show the same problems so I'm positive the module is defective.<br /><br />What are my options for getting this replaced? I'd like to avoid any down time since I'm using it to commute to work daily.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br />Wednesday, April 29, 2009 10:03:26 PM<br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">OK, I will replace the module for you. Will ship to you in 2-3 days. I will inform you the tracking number. Please go ahead and ship the old one back to us, and let me know the tracking number.<br /><br />Thanks! Regards,<br />Jennifer Wenren</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span><br />May 4, 2009 6:41:36 PM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">Hey Jennifer,<br /><br />I received the replacement module today but I'm afraid it didn't work at all. I replaced my module which was at address 1,0, with the one you sent, and all of the voltages for cells 11-20 were bouncing around between 0.3-0.6v. I also tried switching the module with 0,0 but then all the 1-10 cells started reporting the odd voltages. I also tried messing with the fine tune adjust, not knowing how much that could affect the voltages, but it didn't change anything. I reset the computer with each change in case that made a difference but no luck all around. If I plug my old module back in the voltages are normal again (at least until I drive or charge).<br /><br />Any thoughts on what to try? Otherwise I can resend this module back tomorrow and wait for another? :(<br /><br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br />May 13, 2009 10:07:12 AM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">I'm resending this email to your work email since I haven't received a reply still.<br /><br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br />May 13, 2009 11:01:29 AM<br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">I am sorry about the problem. I will get another voltage module from another package. Please send back the module in question, and upon receiving it, we will immediately send you an 2nd replacement. We will try the unit in our car first before sending you the next time. Regards,<br />Jennifer Wenren</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span><br />May 27, 2009 8:16:34 AM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">Hi Jennifer,<br /><br />I see the defective module was delivered to you on May 16th.<br />Just checking on the status of this.<br /><br />Thanks,<br />Brian</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br /><span style="color:#000000;">May 27, 2009 8:23:41 PM</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;">I did not received it, which address did you send it to? Regards,<br />Jennifer Wenren</span><br /><span style="color:#ff0000;"></span><br />May 27, 2009 8:29:14 AM<br /><span style="color:#3366ff;">The same address listed in this email and on the package it arrived in. Here is the tracking number. EDITED</span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br /><span style="color:#3366ff;"></span><br /><span style="color:#000000;">This is where it's at now. I'm sure they will not get back to me until I bug them again. They are more than happy to take your order, but don't count on that one year warranty being honored. As far as the TS cells themselves, I'm so far quite pleased. I only ordered them from somebody in the US hoping to get the customer service support if needed.</span><br /><br />I'm probably screwed on ever getting this thing fixed and might just design my own or mix and match a few other options out there.<br /><br />So where should you buy these cells from now? Dave over at EVComponents is offering the cells and a different charger and BMS system. I kick myself, because his cell prices are about 70% of what I paid from EPS. Check out his website at <a href="http://www.evcomponents.com/">http://www.evcomponents.com</a>. They are working at keeping these cells in stock! This means no more 2-3 month turn arouund times either. Very promising for the EV world.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-6061831757012256855?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
06-08-2009, 06:45 AM
I've been getting a few questions about my solar and how it all works in regards to the power company. I'll do my best to explain it.<br /><br />The solar is directly connected to the grid through the inverter. The inverter is designed to not send power into the grid if the electricty is off. This prevents the power company from getting shocked if they shut down their side and want to be sure no solar systems are now powering those lines.<br /><br />So the way it works here is the power company keeps track of the excess energy you produce during the day. This is done in the simplest terms by letting your meter run backwards. Then at night, lets say, when you're not generating any power your meter runs forward again and you recover that excess energy you created earlier. It's really a great setup since you don't have to worry about costly batteries that need replacing.<br /><br />Additionally, and to some what complicate what I just said, we have a couple of options here and I went with a time of day (TOD) metering. Peak is 1pm-7pm, partial peak is 7-9pm and 9am-12pm, off peak is 9pm - 9am. This is Monday through Friday. The weekends don't have peaks and all holidays are also like weekends. For peak the energy rates start at about 30 cents per killawatt. Partial peak is about 14.5 cents, and off peak is 8.5 cents. What this means is while I'm at work and not using much energy not only am I making excess energy, but it's not really counted on the kW basis. It's tracked as credits in the form of currency. Later at night when I get home and start using the power again I'm buying it back at a cheaper rate than I sold it for. This helps out the power company to supply their power needs during the "peak" for all users and allows me to only require a system that generates about 75% of my energy use.<br /><br />It gets more confusing yet...Each Peak, Partial Peak, and Off Peak have their own seperate tiers. Tiers, for those who don't aleady have to deal with this, is an alloted amount of energy you can use at a set price. Once you use more than this the price of the power increases. I believe for my power company their are 5 tiers. So even with the right sized system you might end up going up in tiers during off peak (night time and weekends) simply because you don't generate much here. However, you've also been getting paid quite a bit during peak to cover multiple tier pricing during off peak.<br /><br />So that's how it all works for me with my power company. Hope this clears things up, I know it confuses me more. :)<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3232208754382232656?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
06-10-2009, 11:40 PM
<div><div>We'll the car has been up and running since mid February and I've been driving to work for probably a month and a half or so without any issues (other than the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">BMS</span> glitches). I don't see any reason it won't keep running fine so I figured it was time to make things a little more official and add my EV <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Bling</span>. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">OK</span> I had way too much crap bought that I was going to add to the car but the more thought about it and placed items it just seemed a bit too <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nerded</span> out. I settled on two changes to help announce the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">EVness</span> of the car.</div><div> </div><div>First I added the "EV" to the S2000 emblems on the side.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SjB6nrlNcgI/AAAAAAAAAr4/2QBxCn1Smf0/s1600-h/IMG_2043.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345907579821060610" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SjB6nrlNcgI/AAAAAAAAAr4/2QBxCn1Smf0/s400/IMG_2043.jpg" /></a></div><div> </div><div>Second was the customized license plates. I had to make another <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">DMV</span> trip for these, but luckily this was routine and went smooth.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SjB6oEQdojI/AAAAAAAAAsA/dASKhzLOSIU/s1600-h/IMG_2044.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345907586444927538" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SjB6oEQdojI/AAAAAAAAAsA/dASKhzLOSIU/s400/IMG_2044.jpg" /></a></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='//blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-9185627163628087181?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
07-22-2009, 02:10 PM
Preface:<br /><br />A few weeks I was driving to work and looked down at the TS <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">BMS</span> system for kWh. The reading was FAR lower than normal for being halfway to work. My first though was, "crap it didn't charge and I'm halfway between home and work". I decided to keep going and keep light on the throttle. I made it to work with power to spare. It turned out the pack was completely charged when I left home, but the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">BMS</span> failed to recognize most of the energy that was charged into the pack.<br /><br />The Post:<br />It's been about a week ago, and I was just pulling out from work to head home. I noticed the computer again didn't register that it had charged. I assumed it was an error and headed home. Sadly this time it wasn't a false alarm. I drove about 32 of my 35 mile trip home when the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">BMS</span> started yelling about a low cell. Even more sadly, this didn't alarm me since the computer is always giving me false positives. Regardless I started watching the cells and noticed all of them were a bit low (2.8v on average) with the lowest one being 2.5v or so. As I continued to drive they all started dropping, but one more so than others. I could see it going 2.5, maybe 5 seconds goes by, 2.4v, etc. It didn't take any time to reach zero volts under load. At this point I figured I've lost a cell, but the other were still in the safe zone.<br /><br />I got home and after turning my charger amps down to 2 began charging. It took a few hours until the cell was up to 2.8v and I cranked it back up to 30 amps and let it charge.<br /><br />The next day I was hesitant to even try to make it to work, but I figured this is half the fun of owning an EV. I was <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">surprised</span> to find out that not only did I make it to work but that cell was in the top 5 or so under load meaning the internal resistance was not changed and it's still behaving <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">pre-</span>incident.<br /><br />How much life, if any has been taken away from this cell? No clue and only time will tell if fails before the others. However, and most importantly, this shows these cells are able to take a lot more abuse than I figured.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-8512229024901142235?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
08-06-2009, 06:50 PM
I've been meaning to get a post in when I crossed the 5k mark but I've been busy with other things and haven't found the time. I was going to post a picture of me drinking a beer in a lounge chair to demonstrate the work that went into my 5000 mile maintenance, but again, I just haven't had time.<br /><br />In short, that's pretty much what needed to be done to the car, nothing. I did raise the vehicle and get under there for an inspection. I wanted to make sure no bolts were missing or coming loose. Additionally I wanted to check for stress or crack marks in the motor mounts, batter racks, etc, but everything looked perfect.<br /><br />I'm actually over 6k miles at this point. Roughly I think I have about 100 cycles on the batteries after the 4 months of driving @ 1.25 cycles per commute round trip. This is a pretty rough number, but good enough for general tracking of the cells life over the months and years to come.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5434623049014667416?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
08-17-2009, 12:17 AM
<div><div>Today was a fun day with the EV. It's not often you have multiple components laying around to get to really test things. You do your research and buy components, then just hope for the best. Not today!<br /></div><div>Today a group of friends brought over two of their Kelley controllers for some head-to-head comparisons against each other and my Curtis 1231C. The two Kelley controllers were a 144v 500 amp model, and a 120v 800 amp model.<br /></div><div>We monitored pack side <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">voltage</span> and amps, as well as motor side voltage and amps. Sadly we didn't have a computer tracking the information for a nice graph later but the results were clear enough.<br /></div><div>The tests we did, to try and be as accurate as possible, was a 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> gear take off to 30mph. This requires no shifting and gives the motor a long low RPM scenario so we can measure amps.<br /></div><div>We tried to do as little modification as possible to swap controllers so things didn't need to look good. There are a lot <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">duplicate</span> wires, duct tape and bailing wire. Not to mention the cardboard electric isolators and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">bungee</span> cord hood <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">tie downs</span>. </div><div>Please don't let your final EV project look like this! :)</div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SojWkrOylzI/AAAAAAAAAs0/larhaolAJKI/s1600-h/IMG_2406_small.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370778481207711538" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/SojWkrOylzI/AAAAAAAAAs0/larhaolAJKI/s400/IMG_2406_small.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div>The Kelley 144v 500 amp controller was rather sad in my opinion. The highest recorded motor side output was 320 amps. Even in first gear that car felt like it had no power. We tried the "torque" and "speed" settings of the controller, but it didn't change much. The 0-30 test took 15 seconds on average!<br /></div><div>Next the Kelley 120v 800 amp controller. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Surprisingly</span> this is in the exact same enclosure as the 500 amp version. We removed seven of my <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">LiFePO</span>4 cells to drop the pack voltage within spec of the controller. I bit of an apples to oranges test, but we had no choice here. Maximum recorded amps was 640 with a 0-30 time of 8 seconds. Much better, but where is the 800 amps this controller is claiming? Perhaps if you could record with enough accuracy you'd see this number for a fraction of a second. Even the 600 amps is gone in less than a second. From the instant you see 600+ amps, they start dropping fast and within seconds you're looking at 400 amps and then a slower <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">drop off</span> rate. I admit though, out of the hole the bottom end torque felt really good, it just didn't last long.<br /></div><div>Technically we tested the Curtis first since it was in the car, but afterwards we tested it again to track a few points better after we understood a few things. The Curtis <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">surprised</span> me as we saw 535 amps at peak. The interesting point was this didn't fall down nearly as quick as the two <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Kelley's</span>. We counted a full 5 seconds before we even fell below 500. Although the Curtis and Kelley 800 had nearly the same 0-30 of 7-8 seconds the main difference was that the Kelley started off very hard but with it quickly dropping amps it was hard to get to 30 mph in the end. The Curtis on the other hand pulled hard and consistently right past 30 mph.</div><div> </div><div>Pack side measurements weren't really worth mentioning as they were <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">consistant</span> and reflected the performance seen on the motor side. None of the controllers were able to push the pack amperage above 500 amps. Even at the lowest <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">RPM</span> to get high motor side amps, the pack was only seeing 250 or around there during that. This opens my mind now to installing a higher end controller knowing I can really increase my low end without <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">jeopardizing</span> the pack.</div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-506791511381976823?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
10-16-2009, 11:20 PM
I realized I hadn't posted on in here in a couple months now! I'm just having too much fun driving and not working on the car. <div><div><br /><div>I did tear it down just a couple weeks ago to look things over, make sure no welds had broke, check the motor brushes, etc. Everything looks great!</div><br /><div>Since I had it all apart, I took the time to FINALLY install my version 2.0 of the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">LiFePO</span>4 Volt <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Blocher</span>.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFQinqe7I/AAAAAAAAAtA/0A6yf-j2rSc/s1600-h/IMG_2666_small.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393347810482092978" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFQinqe7I/AAAAAAAAAtA/0A6yf-j2rSc/s400/IMG_2666_small.jpg" /></a></div><div> </div><div>I'm normally parked outside the garage these days as my truck sits here, but thought it was a nice shot charging with the solar inverters in the background.</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFRFAVk0I/AAAAAAAAAtI/JbWBgH0cUcI/s1600-h/IMG_2670_small.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393347819712385858" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFRFAVk0I/AAAAAAAAAtI/JbWBgH0cUcI/s400/IMG_2670_small.jpg" /></a></div><div> </div><div>You can <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definitely</span> tell this is MY kid, just look at that EV GRIN?!?</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFRvPms6I/AAAAAAAAAtQ/KiWuyZqoA2k/s1600-h/IMG_2664_small.jpg"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5393347831050711970" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/StkFRvPms6I/AAAAAAAAAtQ/KiWuyZqoA2k/s400/IMG_2664_small.jpg" /></a></div></div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-1872610790500415481?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
10-30-2009, 05:01 PM
So when I put everything back together last, I failed to mention a dummy moment I had. I managed to short out a cell for a couple of seconds. I really wasn't sure if I had done any damaged so thought I'd figure it out one way or the other before posting the results.<br /><br />The cell was directly shorted out for a good two seconds, maybe a bit more, although it seemed liked a minute as I was jumping around trying to stop it. :)<br /><br />I gave the cell a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">separate</span> charge knowing I had discharged it quite a bit and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definitely</span> exceeded the maximum discharge amperage. Somewhere during the first or second week of driving to work the cell didn't have enough capacity to make it here and dropped to zero volts. I knew I had done some damage to it now, not from the zero volt, but the fact that it reached zero volts. If you recall, I've taken another cell to zero volts and it's still alive and kicking so no final verdict there yet.<br /><br />I manually charged this cell up again for about a day at 5 amps, AFTER the pack itself had reached full charge. This one cell, however, would never fully charge. It seemed it internally had a self discharge of a couple amps maybe.<br /><br />However, it continued to get me to work...until today. The cell reached zero volts again on the way to work and I knew it was time to replace it. This time, the cell would not charge...at all. I could not get the voltage above 0.7v and the cell got very warm when charging.<br /><br />So although this is the extreme case of discharging at high rates, it may speak slightly to what happens to a cell when exceeding the maximum continuous ratings, just to a lesser degree. In short, it's bad :)<br /><br />So, I've now lost my first cell. Luckily it was due to my own ignorance and not a failure for general use.<br /><br />On a side note, I have noticed much greater voltage sag with the colder weather under load. This may be because the cells don't charge as much in this weather as well as the temperature it self during operation. It's about 45-50F when I leave in the morning and the car charges outside. We'll see how bad it gets when winter really kicks in here.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-850753664278374056?l=s2kev.blogspot.com'/></div>
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LagunaBlue
01-07-2010, 05:16 PM
As much as I hate to do it, it's time to sell the S2KEV. I really want to start looking into my next EV and I have to sell this one for the funds. I put up a listing for now at <a href="http://www.evtradinpost.com/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=3796&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=17"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">EVTradin</span></a> for those interested in the details.<br /><br />After putting 10k miles on this one I feel comfortable selling it since I know it's been a good conversion and is reliable.<br /><br />So what's next? I'm not sure yet exactly but you can bet I'll be blogging on it!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-7847426611469107656?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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LagunaBlue
03-10-2010, 03:02 PM
I haven't been on here in awhile. I few weeks ago I finally hit the big 10k EV mile marker! Other than that there really isn't much to report. I'm still driving the car to work and things are great. The cold weather is still taking its toll on the batteries and the volt sag is high. This makes climbing the steep hills hard as I need more amps to account for the lower voltage but they seem to be dealing with it fine.<br /><br />You may recall I reported two cells which sagged considerably more than the rest. I figured these would have went out by now but they are still working fine. On the down side, I now have two more cells that seem to sag more than before (about 0.4v under 2C load lower than the rest). I don't plan to replace any of them until they go out completely so I can really test them out. Speaking of replacing them, I noticed that Elite Power Solutions has finally dropped their prices to be more <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">competitive</span> with some of the other suppliers. We'll hopefully see a continuing trend making this option more affordable for all.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5309095350405410650?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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LagunaBlue
04-20-2010, 11:27 AM
I just realized it's been just over a year now since I started driving the car to work! I have 12k miles on the car and things are still working well.<br /><br />I decided to do some quick math to see what 12k EV miles really means. The car originally got 26mpg on my commute. 12,000 miles/26 mpg = 461.5 gallons that I didn't burn this year. Gas in my area has been more or less $3 over the last year so that's $1384 dollars I would have spent on gas.<br /><br />Although it's great to not have given my money to the oil companies or burned the gas, the actual conversion cost vs returns would never pay off before something needs to be replaced (i.e. batteries). <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">EVs</span> of some form are <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definitely</span> the future, now we just need to wait for all the auto manufactures to get those production models out which will reduce costs. 2011/2012 will be a huge turn for the auto industry...I can't wait!<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3048567921045913570?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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rss_poster
06-22-2010, 10:13 PM
Things are still looking good on the daily commute. The car itself broke 100k miles a couple weeks ago and I'm now at 15k EV miles!<br /><br />The increase in temperature has made a little improvement to the increasing voltage sag. I think the bottom line is I'm pushing these cells harder than I should for longevity. I believe my commute to work is using >80% capacity and this is taking a toll on capacity. Some mornings I have cell that is very close to fully discharged. I don't know how many miles I have left before at least one cell can't make it and possibly gets ruined to get me here.<br /><br />I keep going in circles, but I'm leaning towards not selling it now. I'm thinking of making some modifications though now that I see how reliable the conversion itself is. Nothing official yet but here are some ideas I'm toying around with.<br /><br />Motor controller: The Curtis 1231C has been reliable but I want to get the acceleration back in this car. I'm leaning towards the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Soliton</span>1 again for a few reasons.<br /><ul><li>It will increase my motor side amps from 500 to 1000.</li><li>It's much larger and has great cooling with the option of water cooling if needed. In the hot summer days on my long commute doing 70mph the Curtis is kicking down the amps sometimes. </li><li>It has many features that will make protecting the batteries, and motor a breeze. I'd like to add some features, but reduce complexity of the build and I think this will be a good step in that direction.</li><li>I'll have the ability to run a pack voltage that is much higher than the voltage applied to the motor. This allows you to run more smaller batteries allowing you to still get the capacity you want, but make it easier to fit them. It also will remove volt sag during hard acceleration. The pack itself will sag, but if your pack voltage is high enough the motor will receive a steady voltage increasing performance even on those cold days.</li></ul><p>Trunk mod:<br />I think I'll end up cutting out the current trunk and expanding it. There is a LOT of room that is not being utilized under there. This will allow me to add more batteries and even move some of the front batteries to the back giving me room to finally mount that AC that I've been missing.</p><p>Batteries:<br />Currently I'll just add some more cells (I'd like to add another 15 or so) so I can get as much from the existing cells. This should ease up on them and extend there life some on my commute. This will give me not only more capacity but the ability to crank up the motor voltage a bit also to increase high end performance along side of the low end performance I'll gain from the controller change.</p><p><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">BMS</span>:<br />I'd like to get the car to a point where I don't have to look at anything and worry about what's going on. I want to simplify this side of things most of all. I want to be able to get in the car, look at my "fuel" gauge and know if I'm good to go. If there are any issues, then be able to connect something and diagnose the problem. I'm looking into some options for a low cost over haul here. The biggest problem with adding more and more cells is the complexity of protecting them.</p><p>As always, anything I do I'll document and share with you.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-5623880507172906805?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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rss_poster
06-28-2010, 02:27 PM
If you recall from the last testing I put two Kelley controllers up against my Curtis 1231C. We did some repeated 0-30mph tests and compared times while monitoring the motor side amp output. The Curtis accelerated my car in second gear to 30mph in 7-8 seconds (nothing official just eye-balling a standard watch).<br /><br />I've been in touch with a great guy who works at Curtis. This weekend I had the opportunity to test a modified Curtis 1231C. Unfortunately I only had a 500 amp shunt so we weren't able to test the motor side amps. I did see my battery amps peaking somewhere around 650-700 though as the controller reached <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Vmax</span>. This controller reduced my 0-30 to 5 seconds. I will add the shunt later and get the real output from it soon.<br /><br />He also has an even higher end modified 1231C, but we were having some issues with it. It should be 200 amps more or so. It would be nice to see a 3 second 0-30 :)<br /><br />Unfortunately I can't give out any of the secret sauce that is being used to upgrade/modify these controllers since I didn't obtain the information myself and don't want to get anybody in trouble.<br /><br />We should be doing some more tests with the 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> upgraded controller later and I'll be sure to have the shunt ready for some numbers. I realize most people won't be able to make these modifications, but it should give you a good idea of expected <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">acceleration</span> for a given amount of continuous amps.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-7922083360065464546?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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08-15-2010, 01:02 PM
I have removed everything from the car to complete that to do list I created a long time ago and have been putting off (more on this later). While I had the batteries out I wanted to do a test to determine how much capacity is remaining now that the cells are about 1.5 years old and have over 15k miles. I've also calculated it takes me roughly 120Ah to get to work and 80Ah to return home (2k foot elevation climb to get to work). Using 15k miles, and the 70 mile commute that gives me about 214 trips I've made to work so far. Each round trip (120Ah + 80Ah) / 160Ah batteries = 1.25 charge cycles. Therefore, 214 x 1.25 is 267 charge cycles I've used.<br /><br />Below is my battery testing solution.<br /><ul><li><a href="http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11540208&search=power" mo="3&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp=S&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=power" ntt="power" no="'3&Ntx=" nty="1&topnav=" s="1">Costco a 2300 watt power inverter</a>. This allows me to test four batteries at a time to get my 12v source. </li><li>1500 watt space heater. This gives me just over 130 amp load on the batteries which is close to 1C and will give a decent enough load to test. </li><li>E-Xpert pro battery monitor from TBS Electronics with a 500 amp shunt. This will track the Ah used for me and give accurate results compared to trying to calculate this myself based off of ever changing voltage/amperage as the batteries drain.</li><li>CellLog8 allowed me to easily monitor each cells voltage to determine when a cell was too low during the load test or too high during recharge.</li><li>For charging I used my original battery charger, a 12v charger I had, and my bench power supply. This allowed me to charge up to 45 amps and helped speed up the testing greatly. I only did quick charges and once the amperage needed was between 5-10 amps I stopped charging and begin the test. This means the cells were NOT fully charged (probably 90 - 95% is my guesstimate) which is important when reviewing the results below.</li></ul><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TGgRpB02JCI/AAAAAAAAAtY/McpOShUpKOA/s1600/IMG_3526.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5505669941022827554" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TGgRpB02JCI/AAAAAAAAAtY/McpOShUpKOA/s400/IMG_3526.JPG" /></a><br /><br />My original testing plan was going to be to drain the batteries until the first cell reached low voltage, then rotate in another cell and continue testing to get results for each cell. After doing this only once I realized that the capacity of the cells was extremely close and it wasn't worth the extra time. I won't post all the results but basically my lowest cell produced 145Ah. I had other groups producing 148, 150, etc. They were all extremely close. Even the two cells that have terrible voltage sag still produced over 145Ah like the others. Now 145Ah is just over 90% of original capacity, however, remember my charging method was manual and I didn't give it the time to do much constant voltage charging. So to my surprise, I think I'm still near original capacity. The only thing is I didn't do this testing when the cells were new and I'm told they will have at least 160 but usually more, so it's possible I've lost more than I know. Either way this is good news and I'm quite happy with the results.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-8796997874698761966?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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08-19-2010, 01:42 PM
I've been working on modifications to the car over the past couple weeks. In order to get the AC back into the car some of the cells needed be shifted from the front of the car to back. Additionally, I want to add a more cells. The only solution was to make better use of the trunk. The number of new cells I'll add is still not firm but I'm looking to add as many as possible for multiple reasons.<br /><ol><li>Greater range. More cells means I have more energy and can travel further before recharging.</li><li>Distributed load. The more cells I have, the less they have to work for my daily commute which will increase the life of the cells.</li><li>Performance. Currently the 144v system allows the motor to hit about 4k RPM before the controller switches to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">VMax</span>. Any additional increase in RPM greatly reduces torque requiring you to shift to a higher gear. Increasing the voltage will allow the torque to remain steady for higher RPM meaning the motor will want to rev out higher.</li></ol><br />Here is a shot of the original trunk space. You can see there isn't much usable space currently above the fuel tank, about 3" and it opens up to only about 8-10" on the far right.<br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06OrI_DRI/AAAAAAAAAtg/wmyxekc6pWE/s1600/IMG_3443.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507121943116975378" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06OrI_DRI/AAAAAAAAAtg/wmyxekc6pWE/s400/IMG_3443.JPG" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06P_Jzn9I/AAAAAAAAAtw/hL1qF41R_FA/s1600/IMG_3521.JPG"></a><br /><br />The old spot I use to have the charger has a curve to it and greatly reduces the usable space.<br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06PBYHlMI/AAAAAAAAAto/74BjiNJnwYw/s1600/IMG_3447.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507121949086028994" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06PBYHlMI/AAAAAAAAAto/74BjiNJnwYw/s400/IMG_3447.JPG" /></a></div><div> </div><div>A couple of minutes with my plasma cutter and the rear most area is opened up and ready for a new battery rack. </div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG1O_8uQZ9I/AAAAAAAAAuA/eofPCQ9PbAE/s1600/IMG_3521%5B1%5D.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507144779882850258" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG1O_8uQZ9I/AAAAAAAAAuA/eofPCQ9PbAE/s400/IMG_3521%5B1%5D.JPG" /></a></div><div> </div><div>This area now allows for storage of all 15 cells that used to take up the remaining trunk space (including charger). The rack is lined with a thin plastic and sealed to keep out water, etc. I used an expanding foam on the outside underneath the car to also fill in any open areas. The sides use a 1/4" thick steel for strength since the rack is also binding the cells together. If you use a thin metal it will bend as the cells begin to swell which is very bad on the cell life. It's amazing how much pressure is needed to contain them properly. The top (black) metal is much more light weight and designed to simply keep the cells from being able to shift upwards on bumpy roads or a rollover.</div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06Qet5mzI/AAAAAAAAAt4/52d6O2LIsB4/s1600/IMG_3529.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5507121974141885234" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TG06Qet5mzI/AAAAAAAAAt4/52d6O2LIsB4/s400/IMG_3529.JPG" /></a><br /></div><div>Next I will be working on the area where the gas tank use to sit. It looks like I can fit another 18 cells here if it all works out. I will need to make some suspension modifications for the extra weight I'm adding with these additional batteries.</div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-6466330967027395698?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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08-30-2010, 01:10 AM
After completing the trunk modifications I needed to modify the front racks to reduce the number cells and provide space for the air conditioning. Unfortunately during the first stages of the conversion I focused on getting batteries in and soon found I didn't have room for the AC. Wanting to make sure this didn't happen again, I decided to get the AC in and then see how many cells I could fit afterwards.<br /><br />The first and probably hardest step determining how power the compressor. My first option was to modify the compressor to use a standard V belt. In this case it was easy to create a main pulley to attach to the motor. However I determined, after dismantling the compressor, it was going to be very difficult. My second option was to find/make a pulley that could use the same style of serpentine belt the compressor used. I opted for this method. I used the original pulley which accepted a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">spline</span> shaft. The ADC 9" motor has a much smaller, round keyed shaft. I bought a <a href="http://www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farming-ranching/hubs-sprockets-chains/hubs/v-series-hub-3-4-in-bore-1180722">3/4" hub</a> from tractor supply. I was able to get my uncle to turn down the hub and we then pressed it inside the original pulley with a hydraulic press. We ran a weld around one end to make sure it could turn inside. With this done it was just a matter of fabricating a frame that mounted the compressor and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">tensioner</span> to the motor frame.<br /><br />Here you can see completed setup. Reusing the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">tensioner</span> instead of trying to make the compressor adjustable is the best route. The <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">tensioner</span> keeps the belt at the ideal tension as it stretches with age. This setup should be <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">maintenance</span> free for years.<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THsuLrncZNI/AAAAAAAAAuY/zKOUqAnpVNU/s1600/IMG_3545.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5511049347239535826" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THsuLrncZNI/AAAAAAAAAuY/zKOUqAnpVNU/s400/IMG_3545.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Here is a shot from the other side.<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THsuK13wQgI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/hjx8oYq686M/s1600/IMG_3544.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5511049332812431874" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THsuK13wQgI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/hjx8oYq686M/s400/IMG_3544.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div>I ordered from <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">Jegs</span> and got a <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Gates/465/K060345/10002/-1">Gates belt K060345</a>. This is actually a bit over 35" and is the six v serpentine style belt used originally, just much shorter. This was stocked and I got a "free" hat. Considering their "free" shipping had a $5 handling fee, I'm not sure which one of the two I actually got free.</div><div> </div><div>After everything was functional I needed to charge the AC system. The system had been opened for months, and even if it had only been opened for a day or so you need to do a lengthy <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">evac</span> process. An <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html">oil based vacuum pump </a>is required which I bought one from Harbor Freight. You'll also need an <a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html">AC manifold set</a> which I also got from Harbor Freight.</div><div> </div><div>The process is fairly simple. First connect the high(red) and low(blue) side hoses to the A/C system. The sizes are different so you can't <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">accidentally</span> connect the wrong one. This manifold set has a yellow hose and two spots where the yellow hose can connect, one is open and the other is a pressure fitting. Connect the yellow hose to the open side and then to the vacuum pump. Turn on the vacuum pump and then open the high and low valves. Let this run for several hours, the longer the better. The pump will get the system down fairly quickly, but it won't remove all the moisture this fast. You must leave it running to remove the moisture (3-5 hrs will do it). Once complete, first close the high and low valves, then turn off the vacuum pump.</div><div> </div><div>You'll need to check the service manual to determine how much refrigerant should go into the system. You'll also need to replace any oil that was lost. There are refrigerants that contain oil, but it's not enough for a complete recharge so you'll need to do the math and figure out what you need.</div><div> </div><div>The recharge process is simple. Read and follow the directions on the can first and foremost. Disconnect the vacuum pump and connect your refrigerant. The can should be shaken during the entire process. Open the valve on the can, then open the LOW side ONLY. Never open the high side valve while recharging. You'll hold the can upright and rotate 90 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">degrees</span> every few seconds again given the can a good shake frequently. You'll want to make sure there is enough refrigerant and oil in the system before turning on the A/C system (again consult your service manual). Most systems should have a low <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">pressure</span> safety switch to prevent this. With the A/C system on max you'll notice the low side <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">gauge</span> drop as it compresses the gas to the high side. As it pulls from the low side more refrigerant from the can will pass into the system. As the can empties it slows down so be patient 5-15 minutes per can. Repeat this process to add oil and more refrigerant as needed. When complete close the low side valve, then close the refrigerant valve. The high and low side connectors can be popped off easily at this point, but when you disassemble the manifold some gases will escape so do this in a well ventilated area so you don't breath it in.</div><div> </div><div>That was it, now I have some really cold air coming out of my EV!</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-4711459249488949063?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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08-30-2010, 03:01 PM
I ordered 12 new cells for the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">upgrade</span>. The plan was to replace the two cells that have had bad sag since day one and 10 new cells. I decided this would be a great time to do another capacity test for comparison against my original cells.<br /><br />When I got the original cells I was told the factory capacity tests were all above 160, if I recall they were mostly around 165Ah. I charged a group of four new cells the same way I did the old cells. That is, not long after switching from CC stage into CV stage I remove charge and begin testing. The old cells were drained at ~130 amps until 2.5v and the worst cells yielded 145Ah, most around 150Ah. The new cells I only drained down to 2.8v and the reason is that at 2.8v they had produced 183.5Ah!<br /><br />This raised a few thoughts of course and along with the fact they have improved the cells, I'm lead to believe that Sky Energy (<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">CALB</span>) who sells an equal size and weight 180Ah cell for more money is most likely selling the exact same battery. Unfortunately I don't have the 180Ah cells to test, perhaps they are getting 190-200Ah. I believe the batteries might be coming with more capacity also so that after time, they are still considered to be at their rated capacity or higher.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-3923182206940890289?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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08-30-2010, 03:01 PM
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THu6JFjdP4I/AAAAAAAAAuw/43Zd1nK1FFM/s1600/IMG_3547.JPG"></a>Not much to show here. I've installed 15 additional cells in the area the old fuel tank use to be. This is directly above the rear sub frame. This is too much weight for the original shocks so I'll be modifying the suspension all around. Even though the sag isn't much, the suspension doesn't allow for much correction and the alignment was never back in spec causing inside tire wear. I plan to resolve that this time around.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THu5v0N4kII/AAAAAAAAAuo/eRxtjsPY4OI/s1600/IMG_3546.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5511202800139800706" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/THu5v0N4kII/AAAAAAAAAuo/eRxtjsPY4OI/s400/IMG_3546.JPG" /></a><br /><div></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-7476010816908042814?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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09-02-2010, 04:12 PM
One area I found that needed improvement was the motor cooling. There is an internal fan which does a decent job, but on longer commutes like mine the temperature of the motor just continues to rise. On really hot days I found the motor would cut out a little from time-to-time. My theory is this is the springs that hold the brushes down becoming too hot and allowing the brushes to float briefly.<br /><br />My plan is to install four small fans directly above each set of brushes that turn on when the motor heats up using a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">thermostat</span>. The <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">thermostat</span> is basically a temperature driven switch that will trigger a relay to turn on the fans. I selected 40C or 105F as the turn on. This will keep it from turning on during short trips but will ensure it starts cooling as soon as possible.<br /><br />Here are the fans I used. They are 2" fans that do 20 <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">CFM</span> and draw .25 amps.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TH_zr6OuDlI/AAAAAAAAAvA/RYZiGMem0Gc/s1600/IMG_3562.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512392404615695954" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TH_zr6OuDlI/AAAAAAAAAvA/RYZiGMem0Gc/s400/IMG_3562.JPG" /></a><br /><br />Here is one of the mounted fans and the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">thermostat</span>. I made a bracket that attaches to the old temperature sensor and the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">thermostat</span> bolts to the bracket.<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TH_zrbrwU0I/AAAAAAAAAu4/V6z9-yhhfN0/s1600/IMG_3563.JPG"><img style="WIDTH: 400px; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5512392396415980354" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mTHg0XdcaHU/TH_zrbrwU0I/AAAAAAAAAu4/V6z9-yhhfN0/s400/IMG_3563.JPG" /></a><br /><br />When I manually enable the system I can feel a good breeze coming out the back the motor so that's a good sign. We'll see what happens after I get it back on the road.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/7683526616307057319-4949269556771149484?l=s2kev.blogspot.com' alt='' /></div>
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